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Mitsurugi Meiya

This is a ¼ scale kit of Mitsurugi Meiya in a battle suit from the Japanese anime video game Muv Luv. It is a resin garage kit. High quality resin has been used to create this outstanding cast. She is available from Gremlynz.com as a kit whereas other sites that list her only sell her constructed and painted by professionals. The kit consists of 25 resin pieces consisting of the base, head, torso, 2 arms, 2 legs, 2 boots, fringe, sword handle, sword sheath, glove armour, 11 hair pieces and 2 pieces of shoulder armour.
Phase I - Basic Part Construction
Construction began by test fitting all the pieces to avoid problems later on in the building process. A few pieces of the hair were heated in warm water to correct their shape, which had mildly distorted through natural resin shrinkage. Once the correct position had been achieved the pieces were submerged in cold water to set them into these positions. All the parts were then washed in warm (not hot) soapy water to remove any remaining traces of mould release agent that maybe present from the casting process. All the pieces were thoroughly dried using a kitchen towel being careful not to break or damage any of the pieces.
Once dry, the arms and legs were glued to the torso. A few areas on the joints needed minor filling using Plasto. The Plasto was left for several hours to dry and was sanded using the micro-mesh system going from the roughest to the smoothest stick. Some minor detail was sanded away and this was rectified using a scribing tool and a metal ruler to recreate the lines.
The boots and the glove armour were then attached to their correct places. On the boots and the armour there were a couple of small bubbles of resin, which can be easily removed using either the tip of the scriber or a knife blade. Great care was taken when doing this so as not to damage the model. I opted, for ease of painting, not to attach the head to the body or to attach the hair to the head. All the back pieces of the hair however were attached together. Some minor sanding was required for these join lines. The two sword pieces were then glued together.

The kit was now in six subassemblies; the base, the back hair, the fringe, the body, the head and the sword. All the subassemblies were then primed using Halfords white primmer. Once the primer had, had a few days to fully set the flesh areas on the front and back of the body aswell as the face were airbrushed using Tamiya Xf-15 (flesh). This was left for 48 hours to dry.
Phase I - Painting Skin Tones
Artist’s oil paints were used to create realistic flesh tones. An equal amount of Raw Umber, Burnt Sienna and Yellow Ochre were mixed together to give the darker skin tones. This was applied liberally over all the flesh areas and a ¼ flat artist’s brush was used to blend the oils into the base flesh colour. If the skin tone appears too dark a piece of kitchen towel can be carefully rubbed across the area to remove the excess then use the flat brush to blend it again. Once happy with the base coat Cadmium Yellow oil paint was applied to raised features on the face and body such as cheekbones, nose, forehead etc. The paint was again blended using a ¼ flat artist’s brush. This highlighting stage was then repeated using Titanium White.

I opted to leave the figure for a week to allow the oil paint ample drying time, once they had dried a coat of matt varnish was given to all the flesh areas. This was done so when the flesh was masked for painting there was less chance of the tape pulling off any of the flesh work. Once all the flesh had been masked off a second coat of Halfords white primer was given to the figure. Next the body and head were given two coats of Halfords gloss appliance white. As soon as I was happy with the paint coverage and it had dried the masking tape covering the flesh areas was removed.
Phase II – Painting Main Uniform
The next job was to paint some areas of the battle suit blue as well as the gloves. I opted to use Games Workshop’s Ultramarines blue. The hair and fringe were also painted in the same shade. Games Workshop’s Electric blue was then used for all the recessed areas. With the kit being big rather than creating a wash, the blue was just painted into the recessed areas using an ‘o’ sized brush. This was used on both the battle suit and hair aswell. Next Tamiya xf-66 (light grey) was used to detail the recessed lines on the gloss white areas of the battle suit. Again this was done by painting the areas rather than making a wash. For the boots a black wash was made from Tamiya xf-1. This was liberally applied to all areas of the boots. The boot soles were dry brushed with Tamiya xf-66 (light grey) and they were further weathered by dusting a coat of Mig Pigments soot to the bottom.
Phase III – Painting Full Cover or Not
The final area that required painting on the figure was the front flesh area. Rather than being left as purely flesh I wanted it to appear as if the front of the battle suit has a layer of material over it. This was created by thinning Tamiya xf-2 (white), it was thinned to roughly the consistency of water. This was then airbrushed onto the front flesh area using a wide fan and holding the model further away than normal. The paint was then misted onto the area which has given a pleasing result.
Phase IV – Final Figure steps
The next stage was to paint her eyes, a base coat of Humbrol 147 (light grey) was used and the pupils were painted using Games Workshop’s Ultramarine blue as were her eyebrows. The next step was to affix her head on her body. Once set, the hair could be attached to the head and positioned around the body. Once this had dried two ribbons that attach to her hair were painted Tamiya x-2 (gloss white).
Phase V – The Base
The base was the next priority it was brushed painted with a base coat of Tamiya xf-63 (German grey). The black wash that was used on the boots was applied to the base. Once dry Tamiya x-31 (titanium gold), xf-6 (copper), xf-56 (metallic grey),x-33 (bronze) and x-32 (titanium silver) were dry brushed over different areas to create the image of damage, age, wear etc.
Phase VI – The Sword
While the base was left to dry the painting on the final sub assembly began. The sword handle was given a base coat of Humbrol 9 (tan) over which a black wash was given to pick out the detailing on the handle. Humbrol 62 (leather) was then dry brushed over the top to add depth to the colours. The tip of the handle and hand protector were painted using Tamiya x-12 (gold) followed by a black wash and then dry brushed the original colour. The blade was then painted using Tamiya x-11 (silver).

The sheath was given the same base coat as the sword (Humbrol 9, tan) and to create the illusion of wear some areas were dry brushed using Games Workshop’s Snakebite leather. The sword was then attached to her hands and after all the test fittings there were no problems and it fitted into her hands perfectly.
Phase VII – Final
The final assembly stage was to attach her to the base. Before this could be done the bottom of the base was drilled to allowing mounting holes for some brass rod to support the kit base when attached to a second slate base. The rods were glued into place using Araldite and these were in turn attached to the slate base using Araldite which created a strong bond. On the side of her leg there is a square peg which mounts into a hole on the kit base. Again Araldite was used to attach her. Tamiya masking tape was used to hold her in position while the glue was setting. She also had to be rested/leaned against a wall due to the weight of the kit. She was top heavy and slightly unstable until the glue had fully set. To be on the safe side I opted to leave the tape on overnight to ensure the glue had fully set. The tape was then removed.
Warp up
The kit stands nearly 1 ½ ft high and looks outstanding when completed. It took roughly 70-75 hours to finish and it was definitely worth the time and effort. I believe she is a good value for the money, especially with the size and detailing on her. She now has pride of place on the modelling shelf and always draws a lot of attention. I would defiantly recommend this kit to anyone interested in anime models or someone that is looking for something different to build but some modelling experience of working with resin would be an advantage.
  • A_Mitsurugi_Meiya_0009
  • C_Mitsurugi_Meiya_0018
  • B_Mitsurugi_Meiya_0011
  • D_Mitsurugi_Meiya_0019
  • E_Mitsurugi_Meiya_0016
  • F_Mitsurugi_Meiya_0023
  • G_Mitsurugi_Meiya_0020
  • H_Mitsurugi_Meiya_0021

About the Author

About Sam Berry (camogirl)

Hi I'm Samantha (I prefer Sam though) I've been modelling since 2002. I started modelling at my local ATC sqn and learnt everything I know from my absolutely wonderful husband (Tomcat31). I was an adult member of staff there from Nov 2004 and I left 2008 I taught modelling to the cadets as well as a...


Nice work, Sam. I was quite impressed when I saw this figure in the Bulldogs MOM a few weeks back.... when can HF expect to be graced with your presense?
JAN 26, 2007 - 02:16 AM
Interesting, and nicely done, even though I freely admit I don't understand some of these things. (Must be an age thing!) Or perhaps I'm just narrow minded as I don't see any wheels and tires. :-) :-)
JAN 26, 2007 - 04:21 AM
Thanks for the positive feedback so far much appriciated
JAN 26, 2007 - 10:18 PM
Cool, intresting build. I'm more of a mecha fan, ala Robotech and the like.
SEP 02, 2015 - 05:30 PM