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Figures
This forum is for discussion of military figure making.
Fig sizes with different companies
Hohenstaufen
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: December 13, 2004
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
AeroScale: 10 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 29, 2020 - 01:05 AM UTC
Once again, like Jerry's figures, it's difficult to accurately judge the stature of the figures. The Tamiya para is "standing tall" whereas the Russian is casually slouched and the others are stooped to some extent. The heads of figures 3 & 4 are also clearly larger than the Tamiya one and they are more stocky. This also brings in the factor of build as well as height.
RobH
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United Kingdom
Joined: March 12, 2002
KitMaker: 352 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, September 29, 2020 - 01:40 AM UTC
Cheers Jerry, a useful comparison...

Worth pointing out, as already has been, that a “human” is neither 1/35 or 1/32, just their equipment.

When I scratch build a figure, I will work out a height, usually average for that time period, and scale it accordingly. British Para’s were often shorter but this wasn’t universally the case, as there were paras over 6 foot.

For me, the bulkiness would be more critical, as chunky combat soldiers in WW2 would be rare...and more often than not quite scrawny.
Golikell
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Noord-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: October 25, 2002
KitMaker: 1,757 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, September 29, 2020 - 06:51 AM UTC
Well, in my platoon (training) we had a guy of 2 metres. length (6' 6.7") and a guy of 1,65 meters (5'4.9") lenght. Imagine both trying to carry the same log
Yet we carried all the same size helmet, backpack, shovels, guns, etc.

I myself am only 1,90 meters (6'2.8")
jrutman
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: April 10, 2011
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Posted: Wednesday, September 30, 2020 - 04:15 AM UTC
The point has been brought up about the difficulty making a good comparison using the figs I posted. It really cannot be helped as it would be almost impossible to find a similar pose across the spectrum of model company kits.
Also brought up is the sister topic called "stature".
This also varies widely from company to company IMHO.
I find the newer Drago figs and also the Bronc figs to be way too "beefy" and so I usually reduce the width from shoulder tip to shoulder tip and also the girth at the waist. The vast majority of pics from WWII show young, skinny guys. Underfed because of growing up during the Great Depression, regardless of country of origin.
So, it's worthwhile to repeat what several of us have written, the key thing is to use the same size equipment when combining figs from different companies and all should then be kosher.
J
johncpo
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New Mexico, United States
Joined: September 03, 2007
KitMaker: 81 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, September 30, 2020 - 04:25 AM UTC
That's a very good article. There are subtle differences in 1/35th scale figures from DML, Tamiya, Italeri, and lots more.
leviman
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Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: December 16, 2005
KitMaker: 80 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, September 30, 2020 - 04:37 AM UTC
Good points raised there. What method do you use to reduce a figure's build , without ruining the moulded detail ?
jrutman
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: April 10, 2011
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Posted: Wednesday, September 30, 2020 - 07:26 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Good points raised there. What method do you use to reduce a figure's build , without ruining the moulded detail ?



It can usually get accomplished with a rotary tool and a cylinder shaped grinding bit. The Dremel brand includes that kind of bit in the standard package.
I just grind off the top of the arm, where it joins the shoulder, creating a new upper arm line from elbow to shoulder. This usually takes care of it without touching the torso at all. The waist is handled by taking some width off both sides around the belt area. This can usually just be re-scribed without having to use putty or anything.

I took a lot off this guys shoulders and waist.


J