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World War II: Japan
Aircraft of Japan in WWII.
Hosted by Rowan Baylis
1/48 A6M2b Type 21 build
Redhand
#522
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New Jersey, United States
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Posted: Sunday, July 26, 2020 - 02:40 PM UTC
Everything you do is a work of art, not just "a model."
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
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Posted: Sunday, July 26, 2020 - 07:45 AM UTC
Decking glued up , edges dressed and lined with white styrene -

Paste mixed up of Durhams , water and Stynylrez black primer for tarred seams in deck -

Paste screeded into seams with utility knife blade -

Finished surface will look like test sample on right - bare decking given 2 coats of acrylic satin polyurethane , paste worked in and then scraped down when dry -

Thanks for looking ! - RT
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, July 19, 2020 - 05:39 AM UTC
Richard,
So we have the same substitute mail person.

the decking is beyond just looking the part, it looks about as real as a replica can get.

Joel
rdt1953
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Posted: Sunday, July 19, 2020 - 05:19 AM UTC
Thanks Joel & Oliver for the kind words & interest .
I've received the reference I have been waiting on -our regular mailman is on vacation and his replacement real bolluxed things - besides missing our entire street two days in a row , this book was delivered to someone on the next block who kindly brought it to me this morning .

I have completed the plan on paper and have roughed out the basswood decking to be glued up to the MDF base block.


Decking will be natural although I will have to do some staining to make it look like individual planks - yet to be worked out.
next up pre shading on the Zero.
Thanks for looking in- RT
Antilles
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Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany
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Posted: Saturday, July 18, 2020 - 10:28 AM UTC
Richard,
I just have found Your fantastic built thread. The zero looks great so far. And the working-method with moulds on the Vac-form canopy is brillant!

Oliver
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, July 18, 2020 - 01:03 AM UTC
Richard,
I've always struggled with Vac canopies, but the Durham's putty molds really seem to solve all the issues I had. Not much of a need for it now as I'm fully committed to cars these days.

The pictures with the canopy cut into sections and glued up really shows just how well the fit is.

Can't wait to see the camo go on.

Joel
rdt1953
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Posted: Friday, July 17, 2020 - 01:47 PM UTC
Some more progress ...
I meant to includes this in the previous post regarding the cast forms for the vac canopy. The female form should be carved away down to the line where the canopy meets the fuselage in order that the canopy's edges can be worked by filing, scraping , sanding etc. as needed . This is easiest to due when the plaster is still green - it will have a hard cheese like texture and can be easily worked with a utility knife.

The canopy has been installed and seams worked with Tamiya surfacer
and masked with Bare Metal Foil.


.. then shot in black for the interior frame color ...

.. and then more grey primer ...

Looks like it may need one more go around withe the primer then on to pre shading .
Thanks for looking - RT
Lakota
#123
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Posted: Friday, July 10, 2020 - 05:43 AM UTC
Richard,
I really appreciate your step-by-step explanations and detailed photos of your build. Your posts are well-written and will be a great resource if I every get to building my A6M2.
Take care & Stay Safe,
Don "Lakota"
Redhand
#522
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Posted: Friday, July 10, 2020 - 04:25 AM UTC

Quoted Text


I like to use a product called Durham's Water Putty to make male and female fixtures to support the vac canopies while cutting and fitting. The male casting for cutting the canopy from it's matrix and the female to support the canopy while tuning up the edges where they meet the fuselage.

Richard



A fantastic idea on the water putty!
rdt1953
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Posted: Friday, July 10, 2020 - 04:19 AM UTC
After a brief delay because I clicked on the wrong Rob Taurus canopy - seems I ordered for the Tamiya kit instead of the Hasegawa - I am now back to work as the correct ones have arrived.
Rob Taurus Vac Canopies are superb - thin with sharp detail ( some have more detail than the injection kit parts) and they are styrene so they will bond to the fuselage with styrene cement.
I like to use a product called Durham's Water Putty to make male and female fixtures to support the vac canopies while cutting and fitting. The male casting for cutting the canopy from it's matrix and the female to support the canopy while tuning up the edges where they meet the fuselage.

Durham's is a plaster base product and could not be easier to use . It dries quickly - an hour or so and comes in powder form- simply mix with water to a pourable consistency and pour into canopy for the male fixture and around the canopy for the female .
A simple box formed of foil does nicely.




I've also begun work on the carrier deck base - a piece of MDF will be covered with sawn basswood sheet decking and will be using Tom's Modelworks photo etch IJN tie downs. I've begun to lay out the tie downs on paper but waiting for more reference material on the Kaga to arrive .
Thanks to Tim Reynaga for help with the type of wood her decks were made of - Hinoki Cypress . I think the natural basswood will represent the light color of the deck very well.

Thanks for looking ! Richard
rdt1953
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Posted: Saturday, June 27, 2020 - 11:37 AM UTC
Thanks Joel - good to hear from you and nice to feel the model mojo returning.
The Commando project was pretty consuming- energy , attention and $$ but well worth it .Now I need to start sorting out some issues so it runs as good as it looks !
Cheers - Richard
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, June 27, 2020 - 09:46 AM UTC
Richard,

Welcome back to the modeling bench. I'll be following your build with much interest my friend.

After two years your work to date is like you never missed a beat. Outstanding detailing. The cockpit is up to your high standards for sure.

Being a car guy these days, I prefer lacquer primers, but I've used the Badger primers as well, and even lacquer paint plays well with them.

Joel
rdt1953
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Posted: Thursday, June 25, 2020 - 10:03 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Richard, I noticed that you use 91% alcohol. I use it to clean airbrushes and as a brush cleaner also.

But it has been very hard to find these days.

I have been following your build and was interested in the Nick Millman"s excellent e-guide " Painting the Early Zero" .

Bob


Hi Bob - Thanks for the interest. I used to use 91% iso for thinning but have gone over to the Vallejo thinners & cleaners of late . I haven’t looked for alcohol lately but I am sure it is tuff to find these day - this too shall pass.
Cheers - Richard
Bigrip74
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Posted: Thursday, June 25, 2020 - 03:05 PM UTC
Richard, I noticed that you use 91% alcohol. I use it to clean airbrushes and as a brush cleaner also.

But it has been very hard to find these days.

I have been following your build and was interested in the Nick Millman"s excellent e-guide " Painting the Early Zero" .

Bob
rdt1953
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Posted: Thursday, June 25, 2020 - 07:51 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I'll check out the Millman book. He arguably IS the expert on this complex subject. That's the Aleutian Zero on the cover, is it not?


Good eye Brian ! I missed that myself but tail code says yes .
Redhand
#522
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Posted: Thursday, June 25, 2020 - 06:24 AM UTC
I'll check out the Millman book. He arguably IS the expert on this complex subject. That's the Aleutian Zero on the cover, is it not?
rdt1953
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Posted: Thursday, June 25, 2020 - 05:50 AM UTC
Some goodies arrived today - sawn basswood decking for the carrier deck base , Rob Taurus canopies & Master Type 97 7.7mm barrels
rdt1953
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Posted: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 - 02:24 PM UTC

Quoted Text


That's beautiful. Please share the paint colors you use as you go, if you would? I think a zero is in my future soon.

I always have a bit of a twinge when such beautifully detailed cockpits get enclosed in the fuselage - some sense of loss I guess.....



Thanks Phil for the compliments and interest.
The paint I will be using will be Vallejo Model Air IJN Ash Grey. If you will be doing an early Zero you might want to consider getting Nick Millman"s excellent e-guide " Painting the Early Zero" which is available through his wonderful site @ aviationofjapan.com. 40 + pages of very scholarly work on what can be a contentious subject at times.

I printed mine out as a hard copy for convenience.
I did the interior with Tamiya Mitsubishi Interior green as I had it on hand . I don't know if the aircraft I am doing was Mitsubishi built or Nakajima . As I had no Nakajima Interior green ( a darker shade than Mitsubishi ) I used what I had and will paint the rest of the aircraft in the fashion that Mitsubishi used.
I'll call these things out as I progress .
Regarding the cockpit , fortunately nearly all of it can still be seen .
I hope you will post some pics of your Zero when you build it - there can never be too many Japanese aircraft blogs !
Cheers ! Richard
phil2015
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Posted: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 - 12:56 AM UTC

That's beautiful. Please share the paint colors you use as you go, if you would? I think a zero is in my future soon.

I always have a bit of a twinge when such beautifully detailed cockpits get enclosed in the fuselage - some sense of loss I guess.....

rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 - 11:52 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Richard! The Vallejo primers scared me away from these bottles many years ago but since you've tried both I might come back and give the Badger ones a try! I've standardised on Tamiya Fine White but every now and then it would be good to have a primer that works well in the airbrush!

And really nice Zero

:-
Magnus


Thank you Magnus - My experience with Vallejo primers has been very negative - poor adhesion , gummy , unsandable.
Stynylrez is just the opposite. I think if you try them you will not be disappointed.
Cheers - Richard
magnusf
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Posted: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 - 09:03 PM UTC
Richard! The Vallejo primers scared me away from these bottles many years ago but since you've tried both I might come back and give the Badger ones a try! I've standardised on Tamiya Fine White but every now and then it would be good to have a primer that works well in the airbrush!

And really nice Zero



Magnus
Redhand
#522
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Posted: Monday, June 22, 2020 - 12:47 PM UTC
I CERTAINLY WILL! Thanks for the info.
rdt1953
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Posted: Monday, June 22, 2020 - 12:07 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Fuselage and drop tank done and primed in Stynylrez gray - engine done and cowl primed in Stynylrez black.

* * *

Thanks for looking - Richard



Looking great. Please educate me on "Stynylrez."



Thanks Brian - Stynylrez is the best thing going in acrylic primers . I believe it is made by Badger - I hear that Ammo by Mig " one shot primer" is really rebottled Stynylrez.
Stynylrez ( STYreneNYLonREZ(s)in) is ready to use straight from the bottle -excellent adhesion ( unlike Vallejo) dries hard and is sandable ( unlike Vallejo)
Comes in many colors - quick drying ( literally a couple of minutes if you use a blowdryer) You have to be REALLY hamfisted to put it on thick enough to obscure detail .
Try it - you won't ever use anything else for acrylics.
Redhand
#522
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Posted: Monday, June 22, 2020 - 11:28 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Fuselage and drop tank done and primed in Stynylrez gray - engine done and cowl primed in Stynylrez black.

* * *

Thanks for looking - Richard



Looking great. Please educate me on "Stynylrez."
rdt1953
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Posted: Monday, June 22, 2020 - 10:32 AM UTC
Fuselage and drop tank done and primed in Stynylrez gray - engine done and cowl primed in Stynylrez black .
Resin folded wingtips have had kit navigation lights installed with CA and sanded flush & polished .
Main gear doors mounting brackets have lightening holes drilled.


I can build up the main gear next but not much more until the Rob Taurus vac canopy arrives.
Thanks for looking - Richard