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World War II: Japan
Aircraft of Japan in WWII.
Hosted by Rowan Baylis
1/48 A6M2b Type 21 build
rdt1953
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Posted: Tuesday, May 26, 2020 - 08:55 AM UTC
Hi all - Starting a new build here , Hasegawa's Zero. I will be doing an aircraft from the carrier Kaga that participated in the attack on Pearl Harbor .
Some mods will be resin cockpit from SBS , folded wing tips from Wolfpack , various photo etch details from Eduard and decals from Eagle strike.
This is liable to be a little spotty- modeling mojo has recently returned but summertime and the lure of outdoor fun is just around the corner.

Some reference materials-

I've begun the SBS resin cockpit- fit is very good so far but the tiny details are getting to be a challenge for my aging eyes-may have to swap the Optvisor for an electron microscope.




Thanks for looking ! Cheers - Richard
rdt1953
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Posted: Sunday, May 31, 2020 - 11:14 AM UTC
A little more progress - cockpit painted.





Thanks for looking ! Cheers - Richard
Redhand
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Posted: Sunday, May 31, 2020 - 12:27 PM UTC
When I saw the subject, and who was doing it, my reaction was "Of course!"

Will follow with interest!
rdt1953
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Posted: Sunday, May 31, 2020 - 12:48 PM UTC

Quoted Text

When I saw the subject, and who was doing it, my reaction was "Of course!"

Will follow with interest!


Ha - Yes Brian ,a bit of a deep rut I am in. I gotta have red circles .
I have still been following your epic B 17 blog. You sure picked the right guy to finish your masterwork .
Speaking of ruts , did I just read you are contemplating another B 17 build ? Good to hear from you - thanks for looking in !
Redhand
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Posted: Sunday, May 31, 2020 - 01:00 PM UTC
Yes. Idaliza, an aluminum B-18G of the 303rd BG. Mone on that later. You are off to a strong start btw.
rdt1953
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Posted: Saturday, June 06, 2020 - 03:42 AM UTC
Some more progress - cockpit done and fuselage buttoned up.
A lot of re scribing necessary as there were odd kinks in some panel lines in the rear fuselage . It would seem something went amiss when the fuselage was ejected from the mold.





solid tail navigation light sawn off and replaced with new filed from clear sprue-

Anyone contemplating using the excellent SBS resin cockpit should be aware that the cockpit floor casting needs considerable material removed from the underside to clear the wheel wells molded into the lower wing - far easier to do it before proceeding with cockpit build and something I should have checked but alas I did not .

- and wingtips sawn away in preparation for the folded wing bits -

Thanks for looking - Sayonara - Mr. Redcircles
rdt1953
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Posted: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 - 12:13 PM UTC
Hi all - wing is mounted after a careless drop to the floor which broke it in half.
I think all will be good after some sanding and surfacer.


photo etch ribs added from the Wolfpack folding wingtips set - outboard ends of ailerons still need finishing.

fabric boot around tailwheel made with epoxy putty -

Thanks for looking - Cheers
Bigrip74
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Posted: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 - 01:23 PM UTC
Richard, I see that you are at it again. I would loved to have had this before I started my Rufe. Your pointers do help my builds.

Bob
Redhand
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Posted: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 - 01:42 PM UTC
Another beauty well underway!
TimReynaga
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MODEL SHIPWRIGHTS
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Posted: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 - 03:14 PM UTC
Richard,

That combination of the SBS cockpit resin and the Eduard etch is brilliant, and you are making the most of it. Great work so far!
rdt1953
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Posted: Thursday, June 11, 2020 - 10:40 PM UTC
Thanks Gents for the interest and kind words !
rdt1953
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Posted: Sunday, June 14, 2020 - 06:20 AM UTC
fuselage nearly complete - all filling and rescribing done with the exception of the horizontal stabs which have just been glued up on the glass plate with machinists blocks to keep all square ...

and the engine done - Eduard photo etch ignition wires added. These are a little lame . As this was a 14 cylinder radial with 2 plugs per cylinder there should be 28 leads. Hasegawa also did not include the little bosses on the ignition ring where the leads exit so the Eduard piece just lies behind all - not real convincing.

Cheers - Richard
rdt1953
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Posted: Monday, June 22, 2020 - 10:32 AM UTC
Fuselage and drop tank done and primed in Stynylrez gray - engine done and cowl primed in Stynylrez black .
Resin folded wingtips have had kit navigation lights installed with CA and sanded flush & polished .
Main gear doors mounting brackets have lightening holes drilled.


I can build up the main gear next but not much more until the Rob Taurus vac canopy arrives.
Thanks for looking - Richard
Redhand
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Posted: Monday, June 22, 2020 - 11:28 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Fuselage and drop tank done and primed in Stynylrez gray - engine done and cowl primed in Stynylrez black.

* * *

Thanks for looking - Richard



Looking great. Please educate me on "Stynylrez."
rdt1953
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Posted: Monday, June 22, 2020 - 12:07 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Fuselage and drop tank done and primed in Stynylrez gray - engine done and cowl primed in Stynylrez black.

* * *

Thanks for looking - Richard



Looking great. Please educate me on "Stynylrez."



Thanks Brian - Stynylrez is the best thing going in acrylic primers . I believe it is made by Badger - I hear that Ammo by Mig " one shot primer" is really rebottled Stynylrez.
Stynylrez ( STYreneNYLonREZ(s)in) is ready to use straight from the bottle -excellent adhesion ( unlike Vallejo) dries hard and is sandable ( unlike Vallejo)
Comes in many colors - quick drying ( literally a couple of minutes if you use a blowdryer) You have to be REALLY hamfisted to put it on thick enough to obscure detail .
Try it - you won't ever use anything else for acrylics.
Redhand
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Posted: Monday, June 22, 2020 - 12:47 PM UTC
I CERTAINLY WILL! Thanks for the info.
magnusf
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Posted: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 - 09:03 PM UTC
Richard! The Vallejo primers scared me away from these bottles many years ago but since you've tried both I might come back and give the Badger ones a try! I've standardised on Tamiya Fine White but every now and then it would be good to have a primer that works well in the airbrush!

And really nice Zero



Magnus
rdt1953
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Posted: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 - 11:52 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Richard! The Vallejo primers scared me away from these bottles many years ago but since you've tried both I might come back and give the Badger ones a try! I've standardised on Tamiya Fine White but every now and then it would be good to have a primer that works well in the airbrush!

And really nice Zero

:-
Magnus


Thank you Magnus - My experience with Vallejo primers has been very negative - poor adhesion , gummy , unsandable.
Stynylrez is just the opposite. I think if you try them you will not be disappointed.
Cheers - Richard
phil2015
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Posted: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 - 12:56 AM UTC

That's beautiful. Please share the paint colors you use as you go, if you would? I think a zero is in my future soon.

I always have a bit of a twinge when such beautifully detailed cockpits get enclosed in the fuselage - some sense of loss I guess.....

rdt1953
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Posted: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 - 02:24 PM UTC

Quoted Text


That's beautiful. Please share the paint colors you use as you go, if you would? I think a zero is in my future soon.

I always have a bit of a twinge when such beautifully detailed cockpits get enclosed in the fuselage - some sense of loss I guess.....



Thanks Phil for the compliments and interest.
The paint I will be using will be Vallejo Model Air IJN Ash Grey. If you will be doing an early Zero you might want to consider getting Nick Millman"s excellent e-guide " Painting the Early Zero" which is available through his wonderful site @ aviationofjapan.com. 40 + pages of very scholarly work on what can be a contentious subject at times.

I printed mine out as a hard copy for convenience.
I did the interior with Tamiya Mitsubishi Interior green as I had it on hand . I don't know if the aircraft I am doing was Mitsubishi built or Nakajima . As I had no Nakajima Interior green ( a darker shade than Mitsubishi ) I used what I had and will paint the rest of the aircraft in the fashion that Mitsubishi used.
I'll call these things out as I progress .
Regarding the cockpit , fortunately nearly all of it can still be seen .
I hope you will post some pics of your Zero when you build it - there can never be too many Japanese aircraft blogs !
Cheers ! Richard
rdt1953
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Posted: Thursday, June 25, 2020 - 05:50 AM UTC
Some goodies arrived today - sawn basswood decking for the carrier deck base , Rob Taurus canopies & Master Type 97 7.7mm barrels
Redhand
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Posted: Thursday, June 25, 2020 - 06:24 AM UTC
I'll check out the Millman book. He arguably IS the expert on this complex subject. That's the Aleutian Zero on the cover, is it not?
rdt1953
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Posted: Thursday, June 25, 2020 - 07:51 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I'll check out the Millman book. He arguably IS the expert on this complex subject. That's the Aleutian Zero on the cover, is it not?


Good eye Brian ! I missed that myself but tail code says yes .
Bigrip74
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Posted: Thursday, June 25, 2020 - 03:05 PM UTC
Richard, I noticed that you use 91% alcohol. I use it to clean airbrushes and as a brush cleaner also.

But it has been very hard to find these days.

I have been following your build and was interested in the Nick Millman"s excellent e-guide " Painting the Early Zero" .

Bob
rdt1953
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Posted: Thursday, June 25, 2020 - 10:03 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Richard, I noticed that you use 91% alcohol. I use it to clean airbrushes and as a brush cleaner also.

But it has been very hard to find these days.

I have been following your build and was interested in the Nick Millman"s excellent e-guide " Painting the Early Zero" .

Bob


Hi Bob - Thanks for the interest. I used to use 91% iso for thinning but have gone over to the Vallejo thinners & cleaners of late . I haven’t looked for alcohol lately but I am sure it is tuff to find these day - this too shall pass.
Cheers - Richard