I like the Buffing M M Metalizers, as you can buff it, leave as is, or seal it with your choice of clear. It appears you're leaving yours as is.

Here the Tracks and Front Extras are installed.





Finished for now.
Donald

I used Model Master Metalizer Gun metal Buffing with Steel for the rub areas.
Donald

Looking good. What color metallic paint did you use for the tracks?

Painted




Next to join them all together.

Regards.
Donald

I used a #57 Drill Bit to ream out the holes.

Just a touch of glue to make shure the pin stays in.



Next to paint everything then the final assembly and Install.

Finished for now.
Donald

I have the Track assembled in sections of 10
This will be easier to handle when painting.

Here is how I did it .
The Guide Horns are Hollow and go on the shoes a certain way.


Some of the Track pins wouldn't go in.

Your work is phenomenal and I envy your attention to details.... but I in NO WAY envy what you are undertaking now with those tracks!!!!!

Ah ha, the old ten million track parts trick!!!

Hey here's what I'm working on now.

Fortunately it's easy trimming on the Track, just 4 small spots each.




There's just a hell of a lot of parts to clean up.
Well back to work.
Donald

I'm doing it as a generic build which could be from any When.
If I do it as a specific tank all the creatures come out of the woodwork saying this is wrong or that shouldn't be there.
The Paint it Tamiya German Grey with a 1/2 Teaspoon of flat White added.
I still have to dirty up the interior so it doesn't look so pristeen
Regards
Donald

You're killing it Don.

I love watching you own this build. That drivers compartment looks...lifelike. It looks like a factory fresh IV Ausf F interior.

I really like your Dunkelgrau shade so far, those road wheels and bogies look great.

Any Ideas on finishing? It would look great as a IV Ausf F from the 16th or 24th Panzer Divisions outside Stalingrad in September. That's what these Ausf F's and F2's always remind me of.

Keep it up!

Glue in Retaining Pin.

There's no line up marks for the end Cover.

Make shure the Nuts line up with the edges as shown.
this is correct as I have Pics. from refrences showing this.

Here's a Pic showing the cover inside the Sprocket.

A little Paint touch up and it's on to the Track'


Finished for a while.
Donald

Here are the Wheels and retaining pins and Covers.

Just install the Wheels and glue in the retaining pins.

There's a cover that goes behind the Sprocket It's used to keep Mud and other junk out from behind the Sprocket.

Install Sprocket over the cover as shown.

Today I have the lower Hull painted and ready for the install of the Wheels and Sprockets.
First off here is why I masked off the Bogie mounts.

It saves a lot of scraping and swearing.

Oh so much easier.

Make shure you get the Bogies all the way on.

Ready for Painting.
I masked off the interior so I could paint the outside.

The Running Gear
It was a real job getting the seam lines on the Sprocket cleaned up.


It's all in the paint shop now.

Everything might be delayed a while as I have a Funeral to go to monday.

Regards.
Donald

A few more details.

The retaining clips are wire as the kit parts went on vacation.



There are 8 of these on the bottom.



There that should finish up the small details on the lower Hull.
Now to paint it all.
Donald

It is a shame so much of the detail won't be seen. At least it is all documented here so there is some record to show what will be hidden.

I'm starting the outside.

Gear Covers installed all that detail wasted.

I'm finished for now.
I hope this is helpful.
Donald

I had to trim the bottom edges of the Center Hatch to get it to fit
This one is getting glued in place as I want to add the Track Storage on the outside.

Watch how you place the locking handles on the hatches so they don't
disrupt the opening and closing.

You should trim the edges of the hatches so they don't bind when opening and closing them.

The Center hatch is misnumbered on the instructions.

Insert Hatch and using the allready Drilled part as a guide drill halfway through the lugs on the hatch.

Reverse and drill from the other side.


The reason you should reverse the sides and drill from both sides is, that if you are off a little this will self correct and you should end up with a straight hinge line. If you went straight through you could end up with a slight angle.

Of course don't forget the Pin

I'm happy that you find my work useful , that's why I do this.
It makes me feel good to be helping.

Here are some of the methods I said earlier that I would post. I hope you find them helpfil, and of course I'll answer any questions I can.

Now to the Pics.
These are for the Front Brake Access Hatches.

Personally my military modeling is going to the larger scale models, i.e.,1/16th scale armor, and figures. Also, 1/350th, and 1/200th scale warships. I've lurked silently on this forum for some time, and have followed Donald's 1/16th scale armor builds with the greatest interest. He's politely guided me away from buying expensive, unneeded, and mostly unseen details with his excellent build pics, and advice. I try to follow each, and everyone of his 1/16th scale armor builds, either behind the scenes, or actively. I can't wait until the next chapter, and his future builds. Good stuff!!!

Thank you for posting an extremely detailed and well photographed built. The superimposed text on the photographs are very helpful in illustrating your monologue.

Posting the two different drive sprockets with their respective drive housings.

Please don't stop posting. The "crickets" that you hear (Bugs Bunny / Daffy Duck reference) are actually applause.