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Ships by Class/Type: Destroyers
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1/350 FINE MOLDs IJN AYANAMI
rolltide31
#377
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Texas, United States
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Posted: Thursday, October 11, 2018 - 01:11 PM UTC
Mark,

The inaccuracy of the degaussing cable is the layout. The photos I have been able to find of the IJN Ayanami show that it was equipped with the covered degaussing cable, so that part is accurate. The Alliance Modelworks degaussing cable did not have rounded bends in the cable so I had to adjust.

As far as the porthole covers, guess I will need to add them, my intent is to mount the ship in a dynamic diorama with the ship launching torpedoes during the second naval battle of Guadalcanal where she was sunk by the USS Washington, but not before the Ayanami sunk two US destroyers.

Thanks for the input, really appreciate the comments

Dave
d6mst0
#453
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Texas, United States
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Posted: Thursday, October 11, 2018 - 11:55 AM UTC
David,

Fine start you have made with her so far. I use the Tamiya's Degaussing cable set as it seems to be the most accurate for the larger ships. I have not built a Japanese destroyer yet so I have not investigated how many cables are in the bundle going around the ship to determine if the Tamiya would work. I didn't see in your photos where the cables started and ended. Interested what the cover plate look like.

As for the porthole covers that would depend on status of the ship at that time. I sure if they were expecting combat they would all be covered were in port they would all be open. Some portholes could stay covered all of the time. I think this area should be based on the modellers opinion and artistic mood.

Mark
rolltide31
#377
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Posted: Thursday, October 11, 2018 - 11:18 AM UTC
Gents,

Sorry for the long delay. I was focused on moving the Shokaku forward, now that I have some color on her I am focusing on the Ayanami. I have a club contest in December and I plan to enter with this build.

Anyway, so far the fit is pretty decent. The stern has a little gap that will need some filling. There are some flash issues but nothing that is so bad that it requires extensive removal and repair.

The one issue with the kit is that the hull is not molded with the Degaussing cable, so I had to procure an aftermarket set. Fine Molds does have a PE set for the cable but I was unable to find it. I went a head and acquired the Alliance Modelworks set. Unfortunately it is not exactly historically accurate but I am happy with it so far.







In the last picture you can se the Shokaku. I dry fitted the flight deck with a few of the aircraft. I'm pretty happy with it right now.

Anyway, you can also see in the last two pictures that I sanded off the port brows and added Eduard IJN portholes. It is mighty tedious but I wanted to take this build the extra mile.

Does anyone know which portholes would have been covered (not remembering the correct term)?

Anyway, the degaussing cable and the new portholes are complete on the starboard side, now to move onto the port side.

I also started on the bridge. So far there is plenty of PE from the Infini Kagero kit that fits the Ayanami.





You can also see that I removed the molded bollards and replaced them with Alliance Modelworks Destroyer Bollards. Another modification was removing the molded vents and replacing them with Hasegawa vents from one of the accessory kits

I will keep working the hull and look to have some color on it before the end of the weekend. We will see.

I will have a more steady update now that I am focusing on the Ayanami.

Thanks for stopping in and as always, comments, suggestions and criticism are always welcome.

thanks

Dave


Quincannon
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Posted: Tuesday, September 11, 2018 - 05:30 AM UTC
That is probably a pretty good bet Tim, especially if she was dry docked during her refit.

I tend to use Kure in the absence of firm data anyway, because it is an in between color, not too dark, and not too light.
TimReynaga
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
MODEL SHIPWRIGHTS
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California, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, September 11, 2018 - 01:38 AM UTC

Quoted Text

So with this change, you have gone from the paint selection frying pan into the fire, and right beside me. Move over

Your's, and my about to be started Amatsukaze, were both built in private yards so what color paint is the question?



As for the painting question, Ayanami underwent maintenance at Kure in April/May 1942 after some significant war service. My bet is that she also would have been repainted then, so she probably still wore Kure Grey when she was lost that November.
Quincannon
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Posted: Saturday, September 08, 2018 - 06:52 AM UTC
Want to correct the record here. Amatsukaze was built by Maizuru Naval Arsenal, and not by Uraga. Whitley's "Destroyers of World War II is incorrect in this instance
Quincannon
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Posted: Wednesday, September 05, 2018 - 07:12 AM UTC
So with this change, you have gone from the paint selection frying pan into the fire, and right beside me. Move over

Your's, and my about to be started Amatsukaze, were both built in private yards so what color paint is the question?
rolltide31
#377
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Texas, United States
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Posted: Monday, September 03, 2018 - 08:24 AM UTC
Chuck, thanks for the advise, will keep that in mind

Jan, Great to have you along for the ride.

OK everyone, so a change in plans. I reread the history and the Table of Movement for the IJN Destroyer Oboro. It was assigned to Carrier Division 5 in the winter of 1941 but was detached to support the invasion of Guam There it did not assist in escorting Carrier Division 5 to Pearl Harbor.

Since this would make my diorama historically inaccurate I am shifting gears and will build the kit as its original ship, the IJN Ayanami.


I will build mostly out of the box. Will source some metal barrels for the main guns but my target is to use this for my first dynamic diorama. I intend to display her as she is launching her torpedoes against the US Fleet at the Second Naval Battle of Guadalcanal, just before she was sunk by the USS Washington.

Since I am such a detail nerd I am going to go back and fix the history of the ship in the initial post.

Well now that it is mainly out of the box I am going to get more going.


thanks for stopping in

Dave
JJ1973
#345
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Niedersachsen, Germany
Joined: August 22, 2011
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Posted: Sunday, September 02, 2018 - 06:41 AM UTC
Dave,

even though I'm joining in late - very nice start, and I'm looking forward following your build!!

I'm in and watching!

Cheers,
Jan
Quincannon
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Posted: Friday, August 31, 2018 - 12:01 PM UTC
Watch out for what appears to be a scarring on the port side of the lower hull. Did not notice it at all until I applied the primer/lower hull color. It is about a inch and a half long and is at the point on the port side that would be just under the bridge location.

rolltide31
#377
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Texas, United States
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Posted: Friday, August 31, 2018 - 09:28 AM UTC
Chuck,

Nice, I will have the Hasegawa version in stock today. Looking to order some of the Inifini Upgrade kits here within the next few days.

Dave
Quincannon
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Posted: Thursday, August 30, 2018 - 08:42 AM UTC
Hasagawa, and I really think I should have gone for the Fugimi. I may still at some later date
rolltide31
#377
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Texas, United States
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Posted: Thursday, August 30, 2018 - 07:08 AM UTC
Chuck,

I understand the challenge. I too have a space issue. Haven't figured it out yet but will need to here shortly.


One of the guys at my model club hangs his on the wall like a pictures. Not a bad idea but I haven't seen what it looks like with a capital ship.

Which Shimkaze kit are you building?


Dave
Quincannon
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Posted: Thursday, August 30, 2018 - 04:21 AM UTC
Thanks David. While I really prefer to build a model full hull,my house is small, and my display space very limited, so doing everything full hull for me is out of the question. I make exceptions though and my current project Shimakaze is one of them.

What I have done though is found a suitable sized case at Hobby Lobby in which a 1/350 water lined destroyer fits very nicely as long as the prototype ship was 420' or less. In other words it would not be big enough for Burke, but just right for a WWII destroyer. This allows me to store a model, once complete, and rotate them in my limited space, much like my wife changes the decorations on the mantle with each changing season.
rolltide31
#377
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Posted: Wednesday, August 29, 2018 - 12:55 PM UTC
Chuck,

Yes it does come with a waterline plate.

Dave
d6mst0
#453
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Posted: Tuesday, August 28, 2018 - 11:36 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Mark: Make sure you get the right one. Do not get filler primer for use on plastic. I have used it on some 3D printed and metal models, and it works fine, but I think it goes on too thick on plastic, and frankly makes a mess.




Chuck,

Thanks for the heads up.

Mark
Quincannon
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Posted: Tuesday, August 28, 2018 - 06:29 AM UTC
David: Forgot to ask if this model comes with a waterline plate?
Quincannon
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Posted: Monday, August 27, 2018 - 04:55 PM UTC
Mark: Make sure you get the right one. Do not get filler primer for use on plastic. I have used it on some 3D printed and metal models, and it works fine, but I think it goes on too thick on plastic, and frankly makes a mess.

d6mst0
#453
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Texas, United States
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Posted: Monday, August 27, 2018 - 02:34 PM UTC
I am going to have to try those primers. Tamiya primer is nice but expensive.

Mark
rolltide31
#377
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Texas, United States
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Posted: Monday, August 27, 2018 - 06:31 AM UTC
Chuck,

I do use Tamiya Hull Red for my IJN builds. I will give that Rustoleum a shot and see how it goes. I really appreciate the suggestion.

thanks

Dave
Quincannon
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Posted: Monday, August 27, 2018 - 05:34 AM UTC
David:

Just wanted to pass on something I ran across today.I am building Shimakaze, and needed some lower hull paint. Off to the auto supply store to purchase some DupliColor red primer, the one I discussed with Simon on his destroyer build. Seems that Auto Zone and DupliColor had a falling out, and they have now switched over to Rustoleum. Not wanting to go all the way into town to Pep Boys, I purchased what they had. For my money the Rustoleum is very, very close to that cocoa brown all those instructions seem to call for, and very close to that which you used on the Kagero conversion. At $6.50 for a big can you cannot beat the price, and I sure do like the way it looks on my Shimakaze.

I assume you used Tamiya Hull Red on the Kagero conversion?
rolltide31
#377
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Texas, United States
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Posted: Friday, August 24, 2018 - 03:05 AM UTC
Tim / Simon,

Great to have you along for the ride.

Dave
RedDuster
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England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Thursday, August 23, 2018 - 07:59 AM UTC
Looks an interesting beast Dave,

Plastic looks quality too, will be along for the ride.

Cheers

Si
TimReynaga
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MODEL SHIPWRIGHTS
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Posted: Wednesday, August 22, 2018 - 04:40 PM UTC
Hi Dave,

I too will be watching your build with interest! I've always liked the Fubuki "Special Type" destroyers, and from what I've seen the Fine Molds folks have given us a fine rendition with this Ayanami. I look forward to watching your build come together!
rolltide31
#377
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Texas, United States
Joined: June 27, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 - 11:03 PM UTC
Chuck - Have not heard too much about Tru-Colors, good to know about the issue with brushing and touching up. Will keep that in mind. I do like their range of colors though and hope that they become a good substitute for Tamiya Acrylics.

Russell - great to have you aboard mate!

Dave