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Armor/AFV: AA/AT/Artillery
For discussions about artillery and anti-aircraft or anti-tank guns.
Hosted by Darren Baker
M12 GMC
27-1025
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,273 posts
AeroScale: 39 posts
Posted: Monday, November 06, 2017 - 08:41 AM UTC
Completed this over the past few weeks. Well aware of the errors made in this build but regardless I'm pretty happy with how it came out. A bit more dirt and weathering than I usually do but I learned some new techniques that I will use in future builds. I liked the Academy kit enough to maybe doing another this time correcting my errors and also correcting the vehicle width. The T49 tracks are from Panda.













Kevlar06
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Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,665 posts
AeroScale: 832 posts
Posted: Monday, November 06, 2017 - 11:22 AM UTC
Fantastic work Chris. Take away the green modeling mat, and youd swear You were looking at the real thing sitting in a motor pool somewhere in Europe! Just incredible work.
VR, Russ
Kevlar06
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Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,665 posts
AeroScale: 832 posts
Posted: Monday, November 06, 2017 - 11:24 AM UTC
Fantastic work Chris. Take away the green modeling mat, and youd swear You were looking at the real thing sitting in a motor pool somewhere in Europe! Just incredible work. My only comment would be to run some wax over the thread representing the cable for the spade to get rid of the fray. Other than that, it's very realistic.
VR, Russ
RobinNilsson
Staff MemberTOS Moderator
KITMAKER NETWORK
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Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 6,651 posts
AeroScale: 21 posts
Posted: Monday, November 06, 2017 - 02:40 PM UTC
What is the issue with the vehicle width ?
Is it fixable ?
/ Robin
GTDeath13
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Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
Joined: June 12, 2015
KitMaker: 921 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, November 06, 2017 - 02:54 PM UTC
Very impressive work and weathering. The track looks great.

Did you use pigment fixer on the tracks?
alchemymike
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Texas, United States
Joined: December 14, 2011
KitMaker: 206 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, November 06, 2017 - 02:56 PM UTC
SWEET!
27-1025
_VISITCOMMUNITY
North Carolina, United States
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,273 posts
AeroScale: 39 posts
Posted: Monday, November 06, 2017 - 07:02 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Fantastic work Chris. Take away the green modeling mat, and youd swear You were looking at the real thing sitting in a motor pool somewhere in Europe! Just incredible work. My only comment would be to run some wax over the thread representing the cable for the spade to get rid of the fray. Other than that, it's very realistic.
VR, Russ



Will give that a try on the thread. Thanks.
27-1025
_VISITCOMMUNITY
North Carolina, United States
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,273 posts
AeroScale: 39 posts
Posted: Monday, November 06, 2017 - 07:05 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Very impressive work and weathering. The track looks great.

Did you use pigment fixer on the tracks?



Thanks. I just used railroad model pigments and fixed them in place with flat coat lacquer.
27-1025
_VISITCOMMUNITY
North Carolina, United States
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,273 posts
AeroScale: 39 posts
Posted: Monday, November 06, 2017 - 07:17 PM UTC

Quoted Text

What is the issue with the vehicle width ?
Is it fixable ?
/ Robin



3 too narrow in width. This modeler shows how he made the needed corrections.
http://paulbudzik.com/armor/M12%20155mm%20GMC/Academy_M12_155mm_GMC_pg3.html
GTDeath13
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
Joined: June 12, 2015
KitMaker: 921 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, November 06, 2017 - 08:21 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I just used railroad model pigments and fixed them in place with flat coat lacquer.



Take in mind that the lacquer may change the pigment color to a more pinkish-brownish accent that it is. That is why I asked. The pigments will stay on the model even without fixer, especially on a nice flat matt surface.
Kevlar06
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,665 posts
AeroScale: 832 posts
Posted: Monday, November 06, 2017 - 09:27 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Fantastic work Chris. Take away the green modeling mat, and youd swear You were looking at the real thing sitting in a motor pool somewhere in Europe! Just incredible work. My only comment would be to run some wax over the thread representing the cable for the spade to get rid of the fray. Other than that, it's very realistic.
VR, Russ



Will give that a try on the thread. Thanks.



Here's how you do that-- take a length of thread in each hand and drag it over a chunk of beeswax-- Micro Mark and Model Expo carry beeswax in a plastic container designed to coat thread for ship rigging-- but I use a chunck of beeswax I purchased at my local farmers market and keep on my workbench. You can also use candle wax, although it's a little harder to drag the thread over a curved surface. Works every time to get rid of frays in thread. This is an old ship modelers trick. You can use cyanoacrylate to attach the thread.
VR, Russ
27-1025
_VISITCOMMUNITY
North Carolina, United States
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,273 posts
AeroScale: 39 posts
Posted: Monday, November 06, 2017 - 10:43 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Fantastic work Chris. Take away the green modeling mat, and youd swear You were looking at the real thing sitting in a motor pool somewhere in Europe! Just incredible work. My only comment would be to run some wax over the thread representing the cable for the spade to get rid of the fray. Other than that, it's very realistic.
VR, Russ



Will give that a try on the thread. Thanks.



Here's how you do that-- take a length of thread in each hand and drag it over a chunk of beeswax-- Micro Mark and Model Expo carry beeswax in a plastic container designed to coat thread for ship rigging-- but I use a chunck of beeswax I purchased at my local farmers market and keep on my workbench. You can also use candle wax, although it's a little harder to drag the thread over a curved surface. Works every time to get rid of frays in thread. This is an old ship modelers trick. You can use cyanoacrylate to attach the thread.
VR, Russ



Very cool. I got the bees wax covered; Im a bee 🐝 keeper with a dozen hives
27-1025
_VISITCOMMUNITY
North Carolina, United States
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,273 posts
AeroScale: 39 posts
Posted: Monday, November 06, 2017 - 10:44 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Fantastic work Chris. Take away the green modeling mat, and youd swear You were looking at the real thing sitting in a motor pool somewhere in Europe! Just incredible work. My only comment would be to run some wax over the thread representing the cable for the spade to get rid of the fray. Other than that, it's very realistic.
VR, Russ



Will give that a try on the thread. Thanks.



Here's how you do that-- take a length of thread in each hand and drag it over a chunk of beeswax-- Micro Mark and Model Expo carry beeswax in a plastic container designed to coat thread for ship rigging-- but I use a chunck of beeswax I purchased at my local farmers market and keep on my workbench. You can also use candle wax, although it's a little harder to drag the thread over a curved surface. Works every time to get rid of frays in thread. This is an old ship modelers trick. You can use cyanoacrylate to attach the thread.
VR, Russ