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Cold War (1950-1974)
Discuss the aircraft modeling subjects during the Cold War period.
Hosted by Tim Hatton
Best Starfighter Ever?
Jessie_C
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British Columbia, Canada
Joined: September 03, 2009
KitMaker: 6,965 posts
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Posted: Thursday, August 30, 2018 - 04:28 AM UTC
No Starfighter ever had a cockpit floor. It's a legacy of the -A model's downward ejection seat. When you remove the seat, there's nothing there apart from the outside skin. Any "floor" in models is inaccurate, but there as a result of limitations of the moulding process and a place to glue the seat.
SpeedyJ
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Bangkok, Thailand / ไทย
Joined: September 17, 2013
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Posted: Thursday, August 30, 2018 - 02:33 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I follow this build since the beginning and i'm astonished of the level of details put in each pieces.



Hi Steve, I second the comment above.
However more or less from the background, as this is a long time ago I logged in to Aeroscale. Marvellous job you're doing with the kit.
I was searching for the etched details you add to this build and have a question about the cockpit floor (the sink). Is that a common thing on all Starfighters? What I understand is that the C model is also the base for the NATO G type. NATO partners Industry like Fokker, Fiat build a lot of them.
They differ however, which I saw in avionics behind the cockpit and have a larger tail for sure, but basically it is a C upgraded to NATO G, where G stands for German.
The seat is also different later on, after multiple crashes, the G's were equipped with M.B. Q7"s, like the German F-104's for example. So what seat is provide for a C in your build? C2? Is there also a M.B. provided with the kit?
I'm planning a Marine version of the Modern German Airforce. Not doing a Italeri but a Hasegawa, My research did not give me the full satisfaction of this issue, but I want to be correct. Maybe someone else knows...
The prices really got down for Hasegawa kit, and research for build logs gave me a solid base to buy those kits.
Aftermarket shall be my friend to get some levelling up to 2018 standards.
All is on different planes heading Thailand.
Will keep watching your progress, for the painting approach of details I already got my notebook deployed.

Happy building.

Kind regards,

Robert Jan
SteveAndrews
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: August 16, 2010
KitMaker: 693 posts
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Posted: Thursday, August 30, 2018 - 12:27 AM UTC
Salut Franck! thanks very much. I probably spend far too much time looking at tiny bits of plastic :-)

Michael, thank you too. My feelings about the kits I build go through many stages from joy to frustration. This one definitely falls into the 'joy' category. At least for now.

Luckily, I was at home watching the... I was going to say race, but it turned out to be rain.

Happy modelling guys.
Cosimodo
#335
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Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: September 03, 2013
KitMaker: 1,808 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, August 29, 2018 - 10:29 PM UTC
Hi Steve,
I haven't seen this for a month or so. Great to see the painting finished on those parts you have expended so much time on, the result certainly confirms it was worth it.
Hope you didn't head to Silverstone on Sunday for the rain. I stayed up to watch it and ended up watching Spa instead

cheers
Michael
RhinoSpit
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Bas-Rhin, France
Joined: September 22, 2016
KitMaker: 223 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, August 29, 2018 - 09:41 PM UTC
I follow this build since the beginning and i'm astonished of the level of details put in each pieces.
SteveAndrews
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: August 16, 2010
KitMaker: 693 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, August 29, 2018 - 07:37 AM UTC
With the cockpit and avionics parts ready, I can start gluing things in place. In the past Iíve had problems with getting parts aligned, so these days I dry fit the cockpit, tape the fuselage sides together and then add glue to one side. That gets everything aligned, and by gluing one side only I can split the fuselage halves to add more parts. Luckily this kit has a lot of gaps in the fuselage so I can get to the interior parts easily. Et voilaÖ





Happy modelling guys.
SteveAndrews
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: August 16, 2010
KitMaker: 693 posts
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Posted: Saturday, August 25, 2018 - 10:29 AM UTC
Iíve been wondering how best to recreate the burnt and sooty look inside the engine. In the end I went with pre-shading, followed by several thin coats of dark grey brown. That got me from hereÖ



to hereÖ



While I had the airbrush out I also gave the magazine a coat of AK Extreme Metal, Polished Aluminium.



Now I can sit back and watch the MotoGP qualifying while I wait for it all to dry. Next up Iíll be adding some simple pin washes.

Happy modelling.
SteveAndrews
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: August 16, 2010
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Posted: Saturday, August 18, 2018 - 08:51 PM UTC
Hey Joel,
Thank you very much. I can see all sorts that I could do better, but that's my nature I guess. I have to say that the laminated foil set belts did work out well. I think I've finally founds a technique I can stick with.
Have a great day,
Steve.
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
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Posted: Saturday, August 18, 2018 - 08:38 AM UTC
Steve,
Simply outstanding. The seat is in a class of it's own, and that harness assembly looks as close to scaled fabric as humanly possible.
Joel
SteveAndrews
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: August 16, 2010
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Posted: Thursday, August 16, 2018 - 08:23 AM UTC
I couldn't resist a quick test fit. There's a busy cockpit emerging. Of course there's no instrument panel in place yet, and I think the gloss coat I put on before the wash needs toning down to satin or even matt.



Happy modelling.

Steve.
SteveAndrews
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: August 16, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, August 15, 2018 - 07:16 AM UTC
Joel, you are a gentleman as ever. Yes, maybe I'll take the plunge and go for the decals, if only to stay true to my 'throw everything at it' approach to this kit.
Have a great day,
Steve.
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, August 15, 2018 - 12:42 AM UTC
Steve,
Those assemblies are look really quite good. I really like the seat and the avionics bay with each electrical box a slightly different shade of the same color. Really makes quite a difference.

As for the IP, any time you can use Peter's instruments, I'd say go for it.

Joel
SteveAndrews
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: August 16, 2010
KitMaker: 693 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, August 14, 2018 - 06:39 AM UTC
I might be in danger of sinking into a never ending search for the perfect finish, as is always a danger with my builds. Iím never truly satisfied. In the interests of not going blind, insane or addicted to thinners, Iím going to start calling some parts done. Finished are:

The avionics bay



The cockpit rear bulkhead



The seat (actually finished a few weeks ago)



The instrument panel. Well, probably. Iím still thinking about adding Airscale dials. When you see the part magnified like this the dials are obviously missing, but back in the real world theyíll hardly show and a dab of gloss in the right place will create a passable impression. Iím thinking about it because Iím not sure the work is worth the reward. Hmmmm, to decal or not to decal? That is the question.



Still with some work to do are:

Cockpit tub - a bit of low key weathering and tidying up need.



Area over the front of the instrument panel (not sure what itís called). I want to add some variation in tone to those boring olive drab areas.



And finally the ammunition bay needs painting in NMF.



There are a few ancillary bits and pieces like the joystick and foot pedals that are done but not photographed. Oh, and the rather plain cockpit side walls are done too.

A bit more work here and Iíll be able to turn my attention to the engine and eventually go back to scratch building the rear landing gear bay. Remember thatís where this diversion started? I must admit Iíd almost forgotten too.

I hope your plastic and paint is cooperating.

Have a great day

Steve.
SteveAndrews
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: August 16, 2010
KitMaker: 693 posts
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Posted: Friday, August 03, 2018 - 10:27 PM UTC
Hey Joel and fellow modellers,

My colour modulation approach has me frolicking around various parts of the interior, based on nothing more than what Iím in the mood to tackle; in the last day or so thatís been the avionics behind the cockpit. I used this source as a reference:

http://www.rolfferch.de/F104G/html/avionik.html

Started with filters to adjust the colour of some of the boxes.



Then added highlights and painted the frame.



Finally, I picked out some of the bolts and fasteners, and put a white base on the little indicator lights so I get a vibrant colour when I paint them red and orange.



The next stages will be adding some more colour, a little decalling and pin washes.

If youíre eager to finish a kit these techniques are not for you, but Iím enjoying the process and like the results. Right now Iím a happy modeller, even if the plastic is in danger of melting under europeís crazy hot sun.

I hope youíre enjoying this blog, and also also your own kits.

More soon,

Steve
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
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Posted: Monday, July 30, 2018 - 10:34 AM UTC
Steve,
We bought our home 39 years ago, and just had a single A/C in the bedroom. We actually ended up during the hot summer months cooking in the kitchen or BBQing, eating and watching tv in the bedroom, and using that bathroom. We never used the rest of the house. We came to the realization that there has to be a better way. Believe me, we're very conservative in it's use by keeping the house at 72 but the humidity is like 60% all year long, which makes a great difference.

I use subscriptions so that I never miss any updates to threads that I'm following. And I certainly don't want to miss any of yours.

Joel
SteveAndrews
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: August 16, 2010
KitMaker: 693 posts
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Posted: Sunday, July 29, 2018 - 08:45 AM UTC
Hey Joel

I envy your aircon. I'm relying on fans and frequent trips to the local pool.

As for the modulation work. I'm hoping when it all comes together that I'll have a busy and interesting cockpit. Watch this space for more.

Have a great day,

Steve.
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
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Posted: Saturday, July 28, 2018 - 02:06 AM UTC
Steve,
I feel you pain with the extreme heat and nearly unbearable humidity we've also had here on the Island as of late. Then it's monsoon type rains most days just to make it a little more interesting. At least for me I can't complain. We decided many years ago that Central Air was a necessity for us, so the summer weather once we get in doors really isn't an issue.

I really like your modulation technique, as I usually confine mine to dark washes and Tamiya Black recess panel washes, followed by dry brushing with just a light shade of gray regardless of the color coat. Your method certainly results in what to me looks a lot more natural, so I'm going to adapt it for all my modeling moving forward.


Joel
SteveAndrews
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: August 16, 2010
KitMaker: 693 posts
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Posted: Friday, July 27, 2018 - 11:03 PM UTC
Iíve been fighting a wave of lethargy brought on by the near tropical temperatures and humidity here in Europe. Itís almost as if the Starfighter wants a South East Asian climate to add to the realism. Today at least some rain has swept in and so my motivation levels have returned to normal. Iím continuing to use colour modulation techniques on the cockpit interior. Here you can see the second step - picking out details in lighter shades than the base colour. You might notice that I don't use one shade - I darken the highlights as the background darkens. Thereís no crafty blending going on, just lower values as we get towards the cockpit floor.

This technique is more work than washes and dry brushing, but for me it produces a more interesting look with more depth, especially when viewed from the arms length distance that most models are seen at. Have a look and decide for yourself.







Happy modelling,

Steve.
SteveAndrews
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: August 16, 2010
KitMaker: 693 posts
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Posted: Sunday, July 22, 2018 - 10:33 PM UTC
Hey Joel

Sorry for the long delay in replying. I was on holiday without wi-fi which was both a joy and a torture.

Yes, I reckon we can learn lots from artists. We are all in the same game I guess - recreating a version of reality that pleases the eye. Mind you, I won't be rushing to do a Picasso style scratch build.

I hope life is good with you.

Steve
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, July 11, 2018 - 06:18 AM UTC
Steve,
I'm just amazed at the difference in appearance of the seat using your new technique. it really does look real.

I just checked out that link, and I'll be spending quite a bit of time there just trying to learn the basics as I truly suck at mixing colors other then just adding this or that and hoping for the best.

joel
SteveAndrews
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: August 16, 2010
KitMaker: 693 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, July 10, 2018 - 08:54 AM UTC
Hi Matt

Thanks very much. I've been leaning on the work by an artist called Mark Carder. He's posted a lot of great stuff aimed at artists working in oils, but I find it a good source for us modellers too. Have a look at this for starters:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQYcG4Km1-k

I hope it helps.

Happy modelling,

Steve.
Scrodes
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 22, 2012
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Posted: Monday, July 09, 2018 - 10:18 AM UTC

Quoted Text

After getting inspiration from some artistsí work on Youtube I tried a different approach.
BeforeÖ





Looks fantastic!

Care to share?
SteveAndrews
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: August 16, 2010
KitMaker: 693 posts
AeroScale: 551 posts
Posted: Monday, July 09, 2018 - 08:50 AM UTC
With the main colours blocked in, the next step is to enhance light and dark areas. The traditional way to do this is using washes and dry brushing. Iíve used the same techniques many times but recently Iíve become dissatisfied. The reason is that a wash tints all the shadows the same colour, when in reality they are not, and dry brushing catches edges rather than the planes that reflect most of the light. After getting inspiration from some artistsí work on Youtube I tried a different approach. This time I created shadows using a colour wheel to decide on the right tones, and I used yellow or white to highlight planes that will catch the light. Colour was applied in several light filters. Hereís a comparison of the seat, before and after. Iíve also included a shot of the palette (a.k.a. a jar lid) so you can see the variety of whites, blues and greys that I used on the grey areas of the seat.

BeforeÖ



and after.



Hopefully you can see that the colour is more rich in the second shot and overall there appears to be more depth and interest.

As promised hereís the, erÖ palette.


SteveAndrews
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: August 16, 2010
KitMaker: 693 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, June 26, 2018 - 09:16 AM UTC
Hi Michael

Thanks very much. I hope to show some more soon. I do have to give another plug for Mission Model Paints which seem to load onto the brush beautifully and cover well too.

Have a great day,

Steve
Cosimodo
#335
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Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: September 03, 2013
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Posted: Monday, June 25, 2018 - 09:49 PM UTC
Great detail painting Steve. The seat looks superb.

cheers

Michael