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Help- Decals don't stick
blacklupos
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel
Joined: September 20, 2011
KitMaker: 10 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, September 25, 2017 - 09:50 PM UTC
Hello, I am currently building the kinetic f-16 sufa, got to the decals, but it seems they don't have any glue on them. They fall off as soon as I put them.

I've used the same method as always, soaking them in water for 20 seconds, before applying. Any help? I thinking about buying HUMBROL decal fix.
Grauwolf
#084
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Quebec, Canada
Joined: September 14, 2005
KitMaker: 2,418 posts
AeroScale: 95 posts
Posted: Monday, September 25, 2017 - 10:20 PM UTC
Try TAMIYA decal adhesive...designed for decals that have lost their adhesive properties.
Great product.
Cheers,
Invincible
_VISITCOMMUNITY
United Kingdom
Joined: May 03, 2017
KitMaker: 146 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 - 02:27 AM UTC
I second Joe's recommendation. The tamiya product is much better than the humbrol one, and with humbrol, if you have problems with their products they will immediately dodge all the blame and say it's your fault.
RobinNilsson
Staff MemberTOS Moderator
KITMAKER NETWORK
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 6,309 posts
AeroScale: 19 posts
Posted: Monday, October 16, 2017 - 01:50 AM UTC
I actually do this intentionally. I wash off the decal glue and set the decals in a puddle of acrylic clear laquer (Tamiya X-22 or acrylic floor polish, used to be Kleer / Clear or Future but I think they have changed the name).
In my experience this makes it easier to make sure that there is no silvering effect on the decals when they have dried.
/ Robin
Kevlar06
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,480 posts
AeroScale: 812 posts
Posted: Monday, October 16, 2017 - 08:23 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I actually do this intentionally. I wash off the decal glue and set the decals in a puddle of acrylic clear laquer (Tamiya X-22 or acrylic floor polish, used to be Kleer / Clear or Future but I think they have changed the name).
In my experience this makes it easier to make sure that there is no silvering effect on the decals when they have dried.
/ Robin



Here in the States it's called Pledge with Future, not sure what it is in Israel, but it's a clear acrylic floor finish. But that's a hard way to go. I prefer to use Solvaset decal solution and a little application of heat using a small "travel" type hair dryer. I've used this method on Roden decals which are notorious for not sticking. The Solvaset will soften the decal film, and the hair dryer warms it so it conforms to the surface. But you should always apply decals over a glossy finish to eliminate "silvering" where microscopic air bubbles get trapped beneath the decal-- this also tends to keep the decal from sticking. I do admit that I've applied Pledge with Future or just plain Future beneath a difficult decal to get it to stick though, but it's not my preferred method.
VR, Russ
RobinNilsson
Staff MemberTOS Moderator
KITMAKER NETWORK
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 6,309 posts
AeroScale: 19 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 17, 2017 - 12:47 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

I actually do this intentionally. I wash off the decal glue and set the decals in a puddle of acrylic clear laquer (Tamiya X-22 or acrylic floor polish, used to be Kleer / Clear or Future but I think they have changed the name).
In my experience this makes it easier to make sure that there is no silvering effect on the decals when they have dried.
/ Robin



Here in the States it's called Pledge with Future, not sure what it is in Israel, but it's a clear acrylic floor finish. But that's a hard way to go. I prefer to use Solvaset decal solution and a little application of heat using a small "travel" type hair dryer. I've used this method on Roden decals which are notorious for not sticking. The Solvaset will soften the decal film, and the hair dryer warms it so it conforms to the surface. But you should always apply decals over a glossy finish to eliminate "silvering" where microscopic air bubbles get trapped beneath the decal-- this also tends to keep the decal from sticking. I do admit that I've applied Pledge with Future or just plain Future beneath a difficult decal to get it to stick though, but it's not my preferred method.
VR, Russ



The little puddle under the decal provides an instant glossy surface, exactly under the decal. The surplus is brushed in over the decal to seal it and if there is anything left I soak it up with a cotton cloth (lint free).
Since I don't need a gloss surface it is sufficient to give the model a satin/semi-gloss coat before starting the decal work.
Thanks for the warning about Rodens decals
/ Robin
Kevlar06
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,480 posts
AeroScale: 812 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 17, 2017 - 06:39 AM UTC
Rob-- I'm not sure how Roden's decals are now, but their older 1/32 WWI aircraft kits all seem to have a problem sticking. They look like they go down fine, then begin to lift and curl as they dry. I built thier SSW DIII kit a few years back and was frustrated because thier beautiful 5 color Lozenge wing treatments started to lift when the decal dried, I finally used some old (but still nice) Battle Axe 4 color Lozenge, but later found out heat and Solvaset work on the Roden decals. There's a build feature over on LSP detailing some of the issues with my Roden SSW DIII.
VR, Russ