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For discussions related to cold war era Russo-Soviet armor.
Big issues with T-55A from Takom
davidg
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Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Monday, January 02, 2017 - 10:59 AM UTC
Forgot about those road wheels. You have to use 100X magnification to see separation between the rim and rubber. My last build I used Tamiyas road wheels. Clipped off takom road wheel supports then did same for Tamiya and glued them to Takom road wheel arms. No problem and a better defined line between rim and tire.
ChrisK89
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Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany
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Posted: Monday, January 02, 2017 - 12:23 PM UTC
Takom is using the same sprues for many of their T-55 (T-55AM, T-55AMV, T-55AM2B) aren't they?

So my question is:
Are these errors applicable for ALL of these mentioned tanks or only for the T-55A Marina(Czech Production).

Cause maybe for the other production variants or production plants they are correct?
ijozic
Joined: May 23, 2007
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Posted: Monday, January 02, 2017 - 12:24 PM UTC
Thanks to the OP for posting this as I almost bought this kit for the decals. IMHO, RMsh tracks are really unacceptable for a new T-55A kit, especially at this price.

If those putty areas above the front turret hooks are the original locations, they are off by enough to make me question the effort that went into this release.

I got their T-55AM2 kit which I didn't have a chance to go through yet, but I guess I'll wait for a Trumpeter T-55A or better yet if MiniArt continues their line as I'd prefer a kit with an interior.
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Monday, January 02, 2017 - 02:35 PM UTC
What is the problem with the road wheels ?
Images please ...
Nenad ?
/ Robin
bob_gs
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Homyelrskaya, Belarus
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Posted: Monday, January 02, 2017 - 03:39 PM UTC
загрузить картинку на сайт
image uploader
PatriotaModels
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Bayern, Germany
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Posted: Monday, January 02, 2017 - 04:14 PM UTC
Большое спасибо Владимиру / Вялікі дзякуй Уладзіміру

Well, Vladimir has shown the problem. The picture, probably taken at a museum shows new rubber with seam lines, but in real life they become invisible due exploatation. No further comment to TAKOM´s wheel profile needed, or ?

Next step while assembling the wheels. Take care not to follow the assembly instruction. It is completely wrong ! Here´s the solution how to get the correct outer visible ring of the wheel. Valid for all steps, "H" and "I".

Let the plastic dry, don´t glue part numbers A10 and A11 on it. You´ll need to sand down the complete seam lines using a 3mm bolt and nut, fixed into a power drill. The result compared to Tamiya´s T-55 wheel.





PatriotaModels
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Bayern, Germany
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Posted: Monday, January 02, 2017 - 04:29 PM UTC
Next problem, issue or whatever ...

Assembly of the left equipment bundle. TAKOM please be honest, do you wanna break the rules of physics ?







For those, who want the have right geometry, as shown in the assembly instruction, will have to use their skills and imagination.

The result (will need further cleaning):



The towing cable ...



compared to KARAYA´s superb 1.1 mm towing cable.



Takom´s towing cable is a bit to wide.

So, let me summarize if somebody goes for aftermarket parts:

TAKOM t-55A kit including shipping 45,- Euro
+
correct wheels from MiniArm incl. shipping 28 Euro
+
tow cable from KARAYA 5 Euro
+
simple track links from Trumpeter 06622 for 15 Euro.

Who wants to pay further 48 Euro for aftermarket stuff if the basic kit is 45 Euro ??? That´s ridiculous !

SEDimmick
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New Jersey, United States
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Posted: Monday, January 02, 2017 - 06:04 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Who wants to pay further 48 Euro for aftermarket stuff if the basic kit is 45 Euro ??? That´s ridiculous !



Lots of people either don't' care or just build OOB. It is a hobby and people get their own enjoyment out of it different ways. I've been building things as of late that don't require me to obsess over certain things and I've been enjoying myself much more now.

Keep in mind the Tamiya kit has lots of issues like the Takom kit does detail wise. Not much else on the market (yet) that can compete with them...keep that in mind also.
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Monday, January 02, 2017 - 06:52 PM UTC
Thanks Vladimir and Nenad for the excellent explanation of the wheel problems
This is within my abilities to fix ;-)
I was afraid that it was something worse (wrong number of spokes or major dimensional issues or ...)

The rest is also fixable thanks to your descriptions and images. The track is a bonus since I need the tracks from the kit for other projects

I have never liked the tow cables in any kit so far so replacing them is standard procedure

One more question: What should part J19 look like in 1:1 scale when it was used, i.e. not stowed with the two tools ??
Two parallell wires with end connectors,
something like this : >:============:<

/ Robin
vettejack
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Florida, United States
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Posted: Monday, January 02, 2017 - 06:54 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I understand that English isn't the posters first language, so lets not get too bent out shape over this.



Agree. While not strictly modeling related to this article, I would like to pass along that a basic understanding of language gaps does relate IMHO. Sometimes the language of the poster creates it's own limitations. Having travelled 60 plus countries during a military career, what English is to some is jibberish to others. Most countries teach very basic English, that exclude terms/descriptions and meanings and can be lost in translation. Try and keep up with English, or American 'slang' (butchering) of the English language is nearly impossible by most foreign countries. It's also nearly impossible to comprehend and/or explain to most foreigners (even our English speaking cousins), what we even mean by a word or phrase. I give every foreign contributor here the benefit of the doubt when describing a variety of subject matter...to include Nenad's post. Literal translations at times 'seem' offensive when reading it or 'sounds' offensive when hearing it. It is how most foreigners communicate with us. Its the only way they know and/or have been taught. It should be taken with understanding that command of the English language should not be held accountable to the contributor from foreign nations. At least they try. There is an old Russian saying: "if you speak 3 languages, you are tri-lingual, if you speak 2 languages, you are bi-lingual, and if you speak one language, you are an American". Give these guys a break! Geesh...look what I have to put up with Hisham!
andymacrae
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Scotland, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, January 02, 2017 - 06:59 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

I got the Takom T-55 Croatian variant for Christmas and had anticipated building that version at some point. What is the issue with the engine deck, for future reference?

Best wishes,

Ian




Engine deck



And Marina had four croatian emblems. One is behind on the tank turret. Big mistake is that emblem must start with the upper left red cube.

You can find Marina on: https://tenkisti.com/ratne-fotografije-omp-karlovac




By the way that engine deck is from a Polish built vehicle! I'm still not sure that Marina isn't a Polish built tank?
Sgt_Pickle
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Kaunas, Lithuania
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Posted: Monday, January 02, 2017 - 07:05 PM UTC
Why couldn't they just include the tracks from their T-54 or ZSU-57-2 kits. This is what puzzles me. They have the correct tracks.
Spartak
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Croatia Hrvatska
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Posted: Monday, January 02, 2017 - 07:58 PM UTC

Quoted Text



By the way that engine deck is from a Polish built vehicle! I'm still not sure that Marina isn't a Polish built tank?



Marina was 100% polish T-55.
phantom8747
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Alabama, United States
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Posted: Monday, January 02, 2017 - 08:30 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text

I got the Takom T-55 Croatian variant for Christmas and had anticipated building that version at some point. What is the issue with the engine deck, for future reference?

Best wishes,

Ian



How about these decals?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Star-Decal-35906-1-35-Croatian-Army-1991-95-1-T-55A-M47-Pershing-M36B2-/371811519595?hash=item5691b18c6b:g:RaUAAOSwBahU02pk
Engine deck



And Marina had four croatian emblems. One is behind on the tank turret. Big mistake is that emblem must start with the upper left red cube.

You can find Marina on: https://tenkisti.com/ratne-fotografije-omp-karlovac




By the way that engine deck is from a Polish built vehicle! I'm still not sure that Marina isn't a Polish built tank?

Spartak
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Croatia Hrvatska
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Posted: Monday, January 02, 2017 - 09:07 PM UTC

How about these decals?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Star-Decal-35906-1-35-Croatian-Army-1991-95-1-T-55A-M47-Pershing-M36B2-/371811519595?hash=item5691b18c6b:g:RaUAAOSwBahU02pk


Bob buy them!
They are correct.
JimboHUN
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Budapest, Hungary
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Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 12:56 PM UTC
Having built their T-54 I think these are great kits.

The split of the wheels is not a huge issue you just need to fill and sand - this is what scale modelling is also about.

I have to agree that I have seen some of the same errors but I could live with that or sort it out.

With this new kit the tracks are an issue as I'd also be expecting the OMsH ones too. Though my T-54 had both drive spockets included.

What I'd also consider that not everyone is a rivet counter, in that sense I think Takom has a good buildability/detal ratio. Plus there is a lot of difference between T-55s in the real life - different year, country, factory, batch...

Cheers, Adam
Bravo1102
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New Jersey, United States
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Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 01:59 PM UTC



Funny, when I did the artwork for a sheet covering this back in the mid 1990s, I managed to get it right. Now with so many more reference available Takom got it wrong?

Come on, I'm simply not that smart or talented.
timroberts8
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England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
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Posted: Saturday, January 07, 2017 - 04:14 AM UTC
This wheel fix will not work, as by doing it this way you may get a better rim, but the offset of the wheel overall is wrong.
timroberts8
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Posted: Saturday, January 07, 2017 - 05:11 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks Vladimir and Nenad for the excellent explanation of the wheel problems
This is within my abilities to fix ;-)
I was afraid that it was something worse (wrong number of spokes or major dimensional issues or ...)

The rest is also fixable thanks to your descriptions and images. The track is a bonus since I need the tracks from the kit for other projects

I have never liked the tow cables in any kit so far so replacing them is standard procedure

One more question: What should part J19 look like in 1:1 scale when it was used, i.e. not stowed with the two tools ??
Two parallell wires with end connectors,
something like this : >:============:<

/ Robin

RobinNilsson
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Posted: Saturday, January 07, 2017 - 09:04 PM UTC
Thanks Tim !
Could you confirm that the cables/wires between the strange things at the ends are parallell, i.e. not crossed or tangled in any way ?
Part J19 looks like two separate hoops where one hoop goes through the other, can't be separated from each other without cutting one wire or "opening" the "connector".

Any ideas about what they are used for ?

/ Robin
timroberts8
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England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
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Posted: Saturday, January 07, 2017 - 11:25 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks Tim !
Could you confirm that the cables/wires between the strange things at the ends are parallell, i.e. not crossed or tangled in any way ?
Part J19 looks like two separate hoops where one hoop goes through the other, can't be separated from each other without cutting one wire or "opening" the "connector".

Any ideas about what they are used for ?

/ Robin

There are 2 cables in the bundle which is part J19 Robin.They are fixed to each track with the pointed bit, this clicks into the recess in the track shoe then the recovery beam is put through the loops, essentially they pull the beam under the tracks when the tank is put in motion
timroberts8
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Posted: Sunday, January 08, 2017 - 01:59 AM UTC
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Sunday, January 08, 2017 - 02:14 AM UTC
Thanks !!

This means that part J19 is incorrect


Follow the cable (marked with read line)from one of the connectors, for instance the top cable from the top right connector. It goes under the cable from the other connector, makes a big loop and comes back over the cable from the other connector. This means that the two hoops can not be detached from each other without cutting the wire or splitting the connectors.

Easy fix if the hoops are replaced like Nenad did, except for one thing: don't copy J19 and make sure to drill holes in the connectors
/ Robin

bulldawg380
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Georgia, United States
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Posted: Sunday, January 08, 2017 - 02:37 AM UTC
Hey Ijozic I am thinking of purchasing the t-55am2 from takom but no one has reviewed it and with all of these problems could you or if anyone else has one look and find out if it has all of these problems as well as it woul be my first from takom
nng-nng
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Bayern, Germany
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Posted: Sunday, January 08, 2017 - 06:23 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hey Ijozic I am thinking of purchasing the t-55am2 from takom but no one has reviewed it and with all of these problems could you or if anyone else has one look and find out if it has all of these problems as well as it woul be my first from takom



I think their AM2B is the only kit out there resembling that variant - if you exclude resin conversion sets. I think that I read about some issue with the Polish version (they used a different fire control system, hence the laser range finder and sights are wrong). But the East German and Czech versions should be fine.
It's still the same set of road wheels included.But other than that the kit seemed fine on a first look.

Btw: there is a review on Panzermodell: http://www.panzer-modell.de/ausgepackt/archiv/takom/2057.htm
The verdict is pretty similar to what I said, "correct engine deck for the Czech version" and therefore the East German version, a "very nice kit", but you can't build the Polish version from the box.