The cockpit looks very good, especially since the canopy will be closed.For me the key will be the ejector seat. Make it fool the viewers eyes as to detail, and the perception of a super detailed cockpit will logically follow.
Joel

Tim, nice work on the F-16XL. In regards to material for harnesses, wine bottle foil does indeed work well. Also, if you have a good relationship with your dentist, the discarded lead foil wrappers from X-ray film works well too.

Best wishes,

Ian

Tim,
The fit looks perfect.
Joel

I sense your concerns with that massive wing joint. It does look like there is quite a step to deal with on both sides.

Since you're not going to install the pylons, I would guess that a Gel or thick CCA glue is your best option at this point.

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I sense your concerns with that massive wing joint. It does look like there is quite a step to deal with on both sides.

Since you're not going to install the pylons, I would guess that a Gel or thick CCA glue is your best option at this point.

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I am going to try Milliput to fill the holes and the wing joint Joel. A good friend of mine has been using Milliput on his recent kits and I have been impressed. As long as the joint shows no sign of flexing then Milliput seems fine. It is also water soluble so that any excess filler can be wiped away with a damp cloth.
tim

Joel I tried Milliput a loooong time ago and I have to say I was not too impressed with it back then. It always felt a bit odd when the you mixed the two part filler. I also found it would crack very easily if the join was not joined properly or the join was subject to flexing. Watching my friend using it successfully recently has made me look at the product again. I really like the fact you can take of any excess filler using a damp cloth or sponge. It really cuts down the amount of sanding significantly, which can only be a good thing.
I will always resort back to my favourite method of filling gaps if there is any hint of flex: namely stretched sprue and liquid glue.
Talking of liquid glue I have been using Tamiya extra thin glue with this build. I have been very impressed with it so far. It evaporates very quickly so any over spill from a join disappears very fast. So there is little or no residue left to clean up.
tim

This F-16 variant has a lot of fans. Here's one done of this kit from someone who has to get hold of any kit made of the 16XL.



Thanks for posting your build process, Joel.

I didn't know that Alcad makes polishing cloths. Will take a look at them. I'm also thinking of experimenting with 00000 steel wool for polishing. It works wonders on raised wood stain, so I can't see why it wouldn't smooth out model paint as well.

Joel

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I didn't know that Alcad makes polishing cloths. Will take a look at them. I'm also thinking of experimenting with 00000 steel wool for polishing. It works wonders on raised wood stain, so I can't see why it wouldn't smooth out model paint as well.

Joel

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Joel I have been using Alclads Micromesh polishing clothes for some time now. I bought a set of various grades including 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12000. As they are sheets they are very flexible and great for putting a fine shiny finish back onto the surface of plastic after any filling and blending. On the canopy to achieve the final polish I buff it up on a piece of old denim. This seems to restore 95% of the original transparency in the plastic. Dipping the canopy in Klear not only restores the transparency it adds a real glint to the surface.
I'm not sure about wire wool on plastic, I thought it would be too harsh. So I will be very interested to see how you get on with it. always worth a try.
tim