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Armor/AFV: Techniques
From Weathering to making tent rolls, discuss it here.
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Cutting fine plastic piece from sprue
SingaporeModeller
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: April 14, 2015
KitMaker: 13 posts
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Posted: Sunday, April 19, 2015 - 02:45 PM UTC
Wow... I didn't know that the precision spruce cutter is SO expensive...

I believe I use it to actually remove moustaches stubs off my face...

Biggles2
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
AeroScale: 121 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 08:05 PM UTC
Slice along the parting line a few times with shallow cuts with a fresh razor blade on both sides. If you use too much pressure trying to cut it off in one pass the piece will most likely break. The piece will eventually just drop off - hopefully onto the workbench.
retiredyank
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Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 05:47 AM UTC
You can remove the sprue stub, using wire cutters. This will allow you more freedom, with more delicate tools to remove the part from the stub.
djohannsen
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Virginia, United States
Joined: June 24, 2005
KitMaker: 364 posts
AeroScale: 1 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 05:14 AM UTC
I recently found something that works for me... I hit the sprue attachment point with Tamiya extra thin cement and give it just a bit of time to soften the plastic. I was able to get headlight guards and grab handles off the sprue without any damage.


Dave
mpeplinski
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Michigan, United States
Joined: January 17, 2006
KitMaker: 487 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 04:50 AM UTC
Damon
Great review,first time I saw it,and everything you say is absolutely bang on.Like you,I also love the razor sw kit I bought with it.John sells a great assortment of tools .

Mike
didgeboy
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Washington, United States
Joined: September 21, 2010
KitMaker: 1,846 posts
AeroScale: 103 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 04:13 AM UTC
Pepinski has it right. That UMM fine parts remover is the real deal. Never had anything break with those, even fine resin detail items like .50cal links and M249 Barrels. Get one. Best $12 you'll ever spend. Check out the review here in case you are not already convinced:

http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=8983

Gotrek58
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Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany
Joined: January 11, 2009
KitMaker: 673 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 03:50 AM UTC
I have the same kit and the same problems. Too much attaching points from parts to sprues ( 8 points on the brake pedal part!). The next problem is to clean the parts. My carpet monster is very happy...
It's very hard to repair this little broken parts - next I will try the blue tac method!


Michael
justsendit
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Colorado, United States
Joined: February 24, 2014
KitMaker: 3,033 posts
AeroScale: 60 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 03:33 AM UTC

Quoted Text

... also acts to hold the piece and prevent it flying off into the wild blue yonder



So that's where those parts went!!!
mpeplinski
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Michigan, United States
Joined: January 17, 2006
KitMaker: 487 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 03:29 AM UTC
This is my weapon of choice



Mike
r_e_lafleur
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United States
Joined: October 05, 2009
KitMaker: 3 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 03:27 AM UTC
Thanks to one and all for all your great suggestions

Ron Lafleur
pod3105
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Waterford, Ireland
Joined: August 08, 2010
KitMaker: 466 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 03:15 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Use a single edged razor blade and support the piece being cut on a block. I've been doing it this way now for quite some time and have had no mishaps yet. The blade is incredibly sharp, thin and stiff, you need very little pressure to get a clean cut. Its also great for removing "nodes" from Dragon parts and general purpose use. It cuts, slices, dices and juliennes!

Kimmo



I use a small wad of blu-tac behind the pices for support, works perfectly with just enough give and also acts to hold the piece and prevent it flying off into the wild blue yonder
varanusk
Staff MemberManaging Editor
ARMORAMA
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Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Spain / España
Joined: July 04, 2013
KitMaker: 1,288 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 03:14 AM UTC
I use the sharpest blade I have, which is a razor blade. Needs also a hard surface and having the part as fixed as possible
Thudius
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Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: October 22, 2012
KitMaker: 1,194 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 02:35 AM UTC
Use a single edged razor blade and support the piece being cut on a block. I've been doing it this way now for quite some time and have had no mishaps yet. The blade is incredibly sharp, thin and stiff, you need very little pressure to get a clean cut. Its also great for removing "nodes" from Dragon parts and general purpose use. It cuts, slices, dices and juliennes!

Kimmo
SgtRam
Staff MemberEditor-at-Large
AEROSCALE
#197
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 06, 2011
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Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 02:33 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Maybe the plastic has something to do with this .. The plastic seems too hard and shatters when you cut it ? And I just got that kit in mail .



When using a razor saw, let it do the work for you, do not press hard at all, just the lightest pressure and saw back and forth. I have used the same technique for the smallest and brittlest resin parts in the past too, and no issue.
edmund
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United States
Joined: November 10, 2014
KitMaker: 668 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 02:29 AM UTC
Maybe the plastic has something to do with this .. The plastic seems too hard and shatters when you cut it ? And I just got that kit in mail .
SgtRam
Staff MemberEditor-at-Large
AEROSCALE
#197
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 06, 2011
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Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 02:00 AM UTC
I have the photo-etched razor saw from RB Models and I have no issue getting the smallest and finest parts off a sprue. Get the ultra-fine or fine, they work the best.

mother
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New York, United States
Joined: January 29, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 01:00 AM UTC
There were time that I had to heat up my hobby blade with a lighter followed by slicing through the sprue and part. Todays kits parts are getting harder to remove without damage.

Just save your dull blades for just such purpose.

Happy Modeling,
Joe
FarmerDave
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England - North East, United Kingdom
Joined: September 07, 2014
KitMaker: 63 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 12:58 AM UTC
I use a fine toothed circular saw in a Dremel mini-drill for the finest parts on a sprue. A good quality set of side cutters is another good method.
CMOT
Staff MemberEditor-in-Chief
ARMORAMA
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: May 14, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 12:53 AM UTC
When you say a fine saw are you referring to a razor saw, which is what I suggest trying.
r_e_lafleur
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United States
Joined: October 05, 2009
KitMaker: 3 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 12:43 AM UTC
Just purchased my Second Miniart U.S. Tractor D7. How does one cut those very fine pieces from the sprue. Those pieces from sprue C 1-2-3-4, I tried a knife, a fine saw. Yet each one shattered.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, other than that the kit make a fine Tractor.