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OFFICIAL: Vac and Resin Campaign
BoiseBlade
#523
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Idaho, United States
Joined: February 28, 2014
KitMaker: 342 posts
AeroScale: 250 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 21, 2015 - 10:45 PM UTC
Wanted to provide a little update on my build.
I have reinforced the fuselage halves and guild it together and added all the wings.
Um, they did not want to comply that well So I drilled holes and added 2 1/8 rods for support of main wings.
Jessie_C
_VISITCOMMUNITY
British Columbia, Canada
Joined: September 03, 2009
KitMaker: 6,964 posts
AeroScale: 6,246 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 14, 2015 - 10:18 AM UTC
I return to the Cosmo. I've sanded out the fuselage, and opened up the cockpit roof for the clear part to be added later. The bulkheads are positioned inside the right fuselage half. and the civvy entry door at the rear sanded off.

The cockpit interior is very basic, but then not very much is going to be visible once it's all buttoned up.

Those bulkheads are going to need a little work before they're small enough for the fuselage to close properly


The fit of the engines to the wing is less than encouraging. I know that resin shrinks, but this is ridiculous. I will need to take out shares in Milliput for this.

The wings butt-join together, then the fuselage sits on top of them. It will be a pretty solid construction when all is glued.
Ranger74
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Tennessee, United States
Joined: April 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,290 posts
AeroScale: 87 posts
Posted: Friday, March 13, 2015 - 08:02 PM UTC
I have continued work on the N1M flying wing.

Initial fit testing of early N1M fuselage halves. Needs more triming of bottom half to match top.

Initial fit of fuselage for late N1M.

Ipt and bottom views of fuselage halves. Late and early are very similar.
Ranger74
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Tennessee, United States
Joined: April 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,290 posts
AeroScale: 87 posts
Posted: Friday, March 13, 2015 - 07:55 PM UTC
Thanks for info, I have a lot of Italian aircraft kits. Cockpit openings on most 1/72 kits are so small a lot of detail can be out of sight.
Ranger74
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Tennessee, United States
Joined: April 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,290 posts
AeroScale: 87 posts
Posted: Friday, March 13, 2015 - 07:53 PM UTC
SB2U Vac kit - I will be interested to see how this evolves. I have the same kit in the stash.
BoiseBlade
#523
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Idaho, United States
Joined: February 28, 2014
KitMaker: 342 posts
AeroScale: 250 posts
Posted: Friday, March 13, 2015 - 02:33 AM UTC
I use this site for information on Italian Aircraft.
"cpmr.it"
there they have manuals and such in the section - MANUALI E NOMENCLATORI.

I used it for the basic outline it's not exact at all but in a 1/72 to give it a bit more detail I think it will do.

Jeff D
Ranger74
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Tennessee, United States
Joined: April 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,290 posts
AeroScale: 87 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2015 - 08:23 PM UTC
Jeff,

What did you use as a reference for the interior? Looks good.

Jeff
BoiseBlade
#523
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Idaho, United States
Joined: February 28, 2014
KitMaker: 342 posts
AeroScale: 250 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2015 - 06:19 AM UTC
Here is the latest on my Build.
I scratched built and interior for the Ba.65.
I also decided to turn it into a Bis version.

here is the interior
Ranger74
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Tennessee, United States
Joined: April 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,290 posts
AeroScale: 87 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 08, 2015 - 07:37 AM UTC
I had a delay in building the Curtiss A-8 as my Milliput is dried up. I decided to prep my Execuform Northrop N1M.

the kit has two versions of the same airframe. It also has metal detail parts

The parts

I used Jessica's method of priming the parts to simplify cutting out the parts. I used some chart tape to mark the final cut lines as they were indistinct.

Ranger74
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Tennessee, United States
Joined: April 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,290 posts
AeroScale: 87 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 08, 2015 - 07:27 AM UTC
Great paint. I use it for US Navy "yellow wing" aircraft.
JClapp
#259
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: October 23, 2011
KitMaker: 2,265 posts
AeroScale: 1,715 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 08, 2015 - 03:58 AM UTC
Tamiya rattle can TS-17 "gloss aluminum"
Ranger74
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Tennessee, United States
Joined: April 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,290 posts
AeroScale: 87 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 08, 2015 - 03:13 AM UTC
What are you using for the metallic paint?
JClapp
#259
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: October 23, 2011
KitMaker: 2,265 posts
AeroScale: 1,715 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 08, 2015 - 12:59 AM UTC
Painted



before I work on the decals, I need to deal with the landing gear.
Removed by original poster on 03/08/15 - 00:46:22 (GMT).
Removed by original poster on 03/08/15 - 00:12:48 (GMT).
Ranger74
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Tennessee, United States
Joined: April 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,290 posts
AeroScale: 87 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 07, 2015 - 05:03 AM UTC
Jessie,

I fixed the initial warp but the new one cracked the part. I will try to fix the two parts per the hot water dip.
Jessie_C
_VISITCOMMUNITY
British Columbia, Canada
Joined: September 03, 2009
KitMaker: 6,964 posts
AeroScale: 6,246 posts
Posted: Friday, March 06, 2015 - 11:49 PM UTC
Jeff, you should be able to cure that warp with a dip in just-boiled water and some judicious bending.
Ranger74
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Tennessee, United States
Joined: April 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,290 posts
AeroScale: 87 posts
Posted: Friday, March 06, 2015 - 11:32 PM UTC
I am currently retired, but should be partially retired this summer if I get some contractor gigs, so I have the time to beat these resin kits into submission, if my patience holds up. Bur Sam Adams can help me be mellow
JClapp
#259
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: October 23, 2011
KitMaker: 2,265 posts
AeroScale: 1,715 posts
Posted: Friday, March 06, 2015 - 09:34 PM UTC
geez. Here I thought vacuforms were a lot of work...

Good luck, will be cheering for you. You are obviously up to the task.


Ranger74
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Tennessee, United States
Joined: April 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,290 posts
AeroScale: 87 posts
Posted: Friday, March 06, 2015 - 09:01 PM UTC
After the A-12 disaster, I started my A-8 kit.

I use a generally dustless method of cleaning up resin parts. A piece of wet/dry sandpaper in a plastic dish with water to remove resin plugs (common in armor kits I build). For smaller parts or minor cleanup I dip the part in the water, sand, re-dip to remove sludge until complete. I do have face masks to use as required.

I taped the fuselage halves together to test to the wing

After I installed the interior I had to clamp fuselage together as I glue. One fuselage half is warped but corrects itself as fuselage is glued together

I use cup with screw on caps to store small parts. I was able to store all of the vac parts for My Martin MS-1/XS-1 in one. I was going to complete this kit as part of this campaign, but I hid it from myself.


I acquired the cups from drug testing supplies, as any leftovers have to be trashed because of possible contamination.
Ranger74
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Tennessee, United States
Joined: April 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,290 posts
AeroScale: 87 posts
Posted: Friday, March 06, 2015 - 08:34 PM UTC
My building of the CMR A-12 Shrike has come to a screeching halt! One fuselage half was warped,so I clamped it to board and gave it the hot water treatment. The warp was corrected However, a new warp developed between the cockpits above the wing slot I sent an email to CMR to see if a replace is available, but I doubt it as it is no longer in catalog. Will try to fix later.




JClapp
#259
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: October 23, 2011
KitMaker: 2,265 posts
AeroScale: 1,715 posts
Posted: Friday, March 06, 2015 - 05:30 AM UTC
Ive cut out and mounted this air intake, for the APU I guess. thats the last of the parts from the vacuform sheets.
everything else needed must be scratch built from scrap and the Evergreen stash.



Ive started building up some interiors for the main gear wells.
JClapp
#259
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: October 23, 2011
KitMaker: 2,265 posts
AeroScale: 1,715 posts
Posted: Friday, March 06, 2015 - 05:15 AM UTC
I welded styrene half-round strong backs on to the backs of the blades, and sanded them down a bit toward the tips. the solid disks had a cross filed in to them before welding.

this is quite sturdy. I'll do some more filling and fairing before painting.
These 1/144 scale blades sanded out completely flat on the back.
Sometimes the sanded out part will actually be concave on the back - ie., thicker than the sheet. In that case you can weld in half-round with the round part in the groove. If you flood the groove with solvent, you can back-blade with the tip of the exacto knife, and sculpt the semi-soft styrene filler material into a fair shape before it sets up.


Jeff - I was hoping you would go with the B-9. The Curtis Shrikes are wonderful too, but the B-9 is a really rare beast. If the B-9 goes quick enough, hopefully you can build the Shrikes too.

Jessie_C
_VISITCOMMUNITY
British Columbia, Canada
Joined: September 03, 2009
KitMaker: 6,964 posts
AeroScale: 6,246 posts
Posted: Friday, March 06, 2015 - 02:05 AM UTC
You may find that you need to fill in the rear of the blades with epoxy putty to give them a little thickness, especially if the plastic is thin and flimsy. Otherwise yes, just sand away everything which doesn't look like a propeller
Ranger74
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Tennessee, United States
Joined: April 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,290 posts
AeroScale: 87 posts
Posted: Friday, March 06, 2015 - 01:58 AM UTC
Jonathan,

With the vac props, you just sand away everything that is not a prop? Do you do any thing else other than shape them. My Boeing B-9 kit has the vac props, so I was wondering. The other vac kits on which I worked had metal props.

Jeff