login   |    register
Armor/AFV: Techniques
From Weathering to making tent rolls, discuss it here.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Testors Lusterless Flat question
jwest21
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: October 16, 2006
KitMaker: 3,374 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 17, 2015 - 08:08 AM UTC
I saw quite a few people use Testors rattlecan Lusterless flat to get a dead flat finish. I sprayed some on but I can't get anything better than a satin-ish luster. Aside from shaking the can, is there any trick to it?

EDIT: Model Master, not Testors.
HeavyArty
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,689 posts
AeroScale: 1,728 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 17, 2015 - 08:43 AM UTC
It depends on which flatcoat you are using.

If it is the silver and green labeled Lusterless (Flat), you should get a dead flat finish every time.


If it is the orange and black labeled Dull Cote...


Or the black and white labeled DullCote...


They are really semi-gloss.
jwest21
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: October 16, 2006
KitMaker: 3,374 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 17, 2015 - 09:37 AM UTC
The top one is what I have. Maybe I have a bad can- I mist on a coat, let it dry, mist on a little more and it stays somewhere between satin and shiny.
M4A3E8Easy8
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Washington, United States
Joined: February 04, 2006
KitMaker: 302 posts
AeroScale: 1 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 17, 2015 - 01:53 PM UTC
I use the same stuff but I do not mist the coat. I shoot a coat that is not heavy but far from misted on. Might be your trouble. This stuff has never failed me in the past. Get an old kit and be a little brave with the thickness. Runs would be to much but a nice even coat and let it dry and see what happens.
HeavyArty
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,689 posts
AeroScale: 1,728 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 17, 2015 - 08:41 PM UTC
I agree with Easy8, put it on liberally and let it dry fully and you should be good.
AFVFan
_VISITCOMMUNITY
North Carolina, United States
Joined: May 17, 2012
KitMaker: 1,980 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 17, 2015 - 10:16 PM UTC
Personally, I've never had any luck getting a totally flat finish out of a spray can. I think no matter how careful you are the cans just put out too heavy a spray. I've taken to buying the bottled flat and using it in my airbrush for the finish I want.
18Bravo
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,216 posts
AeroScale: 101 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 17, 2015 - 10:41 PM UTC
The only one I have used recently is the orange and black can. It comes out pretty darned flat. I don't spray it on thick. For me it's more the distance away from the model. I spray a little farther away and (in my mind)the paint starts to dry just a tad, causing it to be be microscopically textured, which is what makes flat finished flat to be begin with. I never like spraying any on too thick anyway.
Of course, if I want to take the time to use my airbrush instead of use the can I'll use Gunze Flat every time. So far it's the best stuff I've used.
M4A1Sherman
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: May 02, 2013
KitMaker: 4,390 posts
AeroScale: 241 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 17, 2015 - 11:37 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Personally, I've never had any luck getting a totally flat finish out of a spray can. I think no matter how careful you are the cans just put out too heavy a spray. I've taken to buying the bottled flat and using it in my airbrush for the finish I want.



Hi, All! I've had great results with all 3 TESTORS canned CLEAR FLAT Sprays, but I like their # 1960 FLAT CLEAR (Lusterless) spray best. How long you shake the cans makes a difference; I ALWAYS shake my canned sprays, be they TESTORS, TAMIYA, or GUNZE, for a MINIMUM of two minutes. I always spray the can upside down until the actual paint color sprays out of the nozzle. It also helps paint flow if the paint is at or slightly above room temperature. I like to place my spray cans (DO NOT IMMERSE COMPLETELY!!!) in warm, NOT HOT, water to help with the paint flow for a few minutes before spraying.

I like the TAMIYA Sprays best for uniformity and smoothness, that is, if a large area is being sprayed, such as found on car models for example, or as the BASE COLOR for large mono-toned camouflage schemes. I've used TAMIYA's CLEAR GLOSS, CLEAR SMOKE and CLEAR SEMI-MATT sprays with great success as final clear-coats as well.

I really like the TESTORS Spray Flats as SEALERS, before and after applying my weathering. Though I like to use TESTORS Flat sprays, I REEEALY like the TESTORS bottled Gloss, Semi, and Flats that I shoot through one of my airbrushes. (I use one of my two PAASCHE H-1 Single-actions for my metallics, the other H-1 for my clears. I use my BADGER 200 Single for solid colors. I like to use my 200G Single Gravity-feed strictly for "touch-up" work or for more complex camo patterns, such as the diffused "mottling" as found on WWII German aircraft, typically seen on Bf.109's and Fw.190's. The BADGER 200G works splendidly for replicating this type of camouflage on my 1/48 aircraft.

Once I'm satisfied with my mottling, I like to spray a light, translucent coat of clear mixed with a drop or two of the base color onto the mottled area to further diffuse the camo pattern, giving the effect of "scale" overspray... This technique also works great on some of my 1/35 WWII German camo schemes, where applicable...

TAMIYA's bottled MATT CLEAR, SEMI-MATT CLEAR and GLOSS CLEAR are meant to be used as ADDITIVES to TAMIYA's regular lines of bottled paints, and I've used these clears with great results as well...
parrot
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 1,607 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 18, 2015 - 01:40 AM UTC
Try Tamiya TS-80.Clear flat.
Been using it for a little while now and works great.Fast drying time.Sprays evenly.No more Testors.

Tom
jwest21
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: October 16, 2006
KitMaker: 3,374 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 18, 2015 - 05:50 AM UTC
Thanks guys- I redid it but this time,I:
1) warmed it up in some hot water for 5 minutes
2) sprayed more, not mistin
3) sprayed from a much greater distance, probably 18"

Doing it that way worked.
M4A1Sherman
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: May 02, 2013
KitMaker: 4,390 posts
AeroScale: 241 posts
Posted: Monday, January 19, 2015 - 04:28 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Try Tamiya TS-80.Clear flat.
Been using it for a little while now and works great.Fast drying time.Sprays evenly.No more Testors.

Tom



Hi, Tom! TS-80, huh? I'll give it a try on my next project.
M4A1Sherman
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: May 02, 2013
KitMaker: 4,390 posts
AeroScale: 241 posts
Posted: Monday, January 19, 2015 - 04:35 PM UTC

Quoted Text

It depends on which flatcoat you are using.

If it is the silver and green labeled Lusterless (Flat), you should get a dead flat finish every time.


If it is the orange and black labeled Dull Cote...


Or the black and white labeled DullCote...


They are really semi-gloss.



I wouldn't go so far as saying that the TESTORS Spray Can DULLCOTE is semi-gloss; when compared to TAMIYA's SEMI-MATT, the TESTORS Spray Can DULLCOTE is "Flatter" than TAMIYA's SEMI-MATT... But maybe I was spraying under different conditions as you may have. Temperature and humidity have a lot to do with it, too...

I don't use spray can paints anywhere NEAR AS MUCH as I do my airbrushes. I mainly use the MODEL MASTERS (TESTORS) 1960 (Lusterless Flat) as my final coat when I'm doing a 1/35, 1/48, figurine, or HO subject, where a dead-flat surface is required...

I want to try TAMIYA's TS-81 "FLAT" on my current project, which is an HO BROADWAY LIMITED Alco-built New York Central J-1e 4-6-4 Hudson, which I've converted into a later Boston & Albany J-2b with 75" Drivers and the "Square" Sand Box. The Main Drivers have larger, heavier Counter-weights added, as well...