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Armor/AFV: Large Scale
1/16 and Larger Armor Modeling
Hosted by Darren Baker
SOCOMD double build
2805662
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Australian Capital Territory, Australia
Joined: March 27, 2008
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Posted: Thursday, January 23, 2014 - 07:54 AM UTC
This should wrap up the LHS tray ammunition liner stowage rack, less mounting. Due to the geometry of the tray wall (wider at the top than at the base), coupled with the fact that the rack was bolted to the narrow part of the tray wall, the rack requires a spacer to ensure that when bolted top & bottom, the rack remains vertical.

The spacer was made from 0.5 x 2 mm strip, bent to shape & cut to length. After ensuring correct & symmetrical stand-off, the spacer was glued to the ammunition liner rack.



After marking the level of the tray floor (taking into account the raised 5-bar chequer plate spacer), a quick fit check on the LHS tray wall was conducted. Big success.





Maki
Staff MemberSenior Editor
ARMORAMA
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Croatia Hrvatska
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Posted: Thursday, January 23, 2014 - 08:05 AM UTC
Very precise work. There is still a long way to go, but I think you are making good progress.

Keep it up,
Mario
barny
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Thursday, January 23, 2014 - 08:22 AM UTC
Great scratch build skills mate very impressed.
Have sent you a pm sir.
Terry
2805662
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Australian Capital Territory, Australia
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Posted: Thursday, January 23, 2014 - 02:17 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Very precise work. There is still a long way to go, but I think you are making good progress.

Keep it up,
Mario



Thanks Mario, lots of work to go...still, lots of small work packages on the road to completion.


Quoted Text

Great scratch build skills mate very impressed.
Have sent you a pm sir.
Terry



Thanks Terry, I've replied to the PM.

Thank you all for watching - great for my ongoing motivation.

Greg
2805662
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Australian Capital Territory, Australia
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Posted: Friday, January 24, 2014 - 09:14 AM UTC
Setting aside the ammunition liner stowage rack for a session or two, I've moved on to the 'holder, key cotton, strip'. This is a canvas sleeve riveted top and bottom to each tray wall. It holds a metal 'T' shaped metal key that opens the various stowage bins & panels on Australian Land Rovers.

For the model, I applied Tamiya tape to some lead foil, measured out the size (noting that it's doubled over to form the sleeve.



The foil was cut to size, doubled over and flattened out along the vertical edges. The Tamiya tape was removed from the back of the sleeve. A 0.5 mm hole was drilled in each corner.

As the LHS has been getting a lot of love this week, the RHS wall was prepped for the sleeve, then the sleeve was CA'd in place. The previously-drilled holes served as guides to drill through the skin of the tray wall. The outer surface of the sleeve was glued to its doubled position.

Once GTG, the riveting can begin. I used Turner Model Manufactory (T2M) 0.7 mm drilled rivets:



These were CA'd in place, replicating the riveted look of the original.



Just have to do the LHS & fabricate the two T keys and they're done. Thanks for looking.
barny
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, January 24, 2014 - 09:36 AM UTC
very neat
Spoke to the chap unfortunately he is not going to do 1/35 at the moment.
Terry
2805662
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Australian Capital Territory, Australia
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Posted: Friday, January 24, 2014 - 09:50 AM UTC

Quoted Text

very neat
Spoke to the chap unfortunately he is not going to do 1/35 at the moment.
Terry



Ah, that's a bummer. There may be an IM kit coming you could source them fro in the near future?
barny
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, January 24, 2014 - 09:54 AM UTC
It's a shame as you say you never know ,perhaps I'll have a go a doing them myself..
T
2805662
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Australian Capital Territory, Australia
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Posted: Friday, January 24, 2014 - 11:39 AM UTC
I look forward to seeing the results.

LHS sleeve done.



Time to do the 'Bracket, support, seat base, mild steel, galvanised' on the LHS tray wall, despite the fact that there's no seat in the rear tray anymore...
2805662
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Australian Capital Territory, Australia
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Posted: Saturday, January 25, 2014 - 11:18 AM UTC
Inadvertently made the first part of the SRV-SF today. The 'mantlet' for the MR550 on the SRF-SF is different from the LRPV. I found that out after making this one:



The difference is the flange on the LHS for alternate positioning of the traverse wheel. This was added by the manufacturer (WE Platt) sometime after the ring mounts were manufactured for the LRPV.

Also, can't wait for these to arrive from Live Resin:



And their 50 cal ammunition...
2805662
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Australian Capital Territory, Australia
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Posted: Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 11:17 PM UTC
The next fitting is the 'ring lashing' - circular tie-down points in the tray. Due to some appliqué fittings to the tray floor, only 6 are visible. The first step for these happened before the 1-bar chequer plate styrene was laid down: 4 mm diameter holes were punched in the appropriate locations. The chequer plate was then glued to the base floor.

Each tie-down is bolted to the floor via 4 bolts. 0.5 mm holes were plotted & drilled.

The rings themselves were formed by wrapping some wire (thanks Fruil) around a 2mm styrene rod mandrel. Once there I'd wrapped enough for some redundancy, the mandrel was removed & the 'spring' cut through to form rings.



The attachment points were fabricated using lead foil, cut flush & the whole thing CA'd into one of the 4 mm diameter holes.





The last piece of the puzzle was the insertion & CA-ing of the rivets. (Note that these fasteners are meant to be nuts + bolts, but riveting is not unknown.



Four rivets down, twenty to go....
Maki
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ARMORAMA
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Croatia Hrvatska
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Posted: Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 11:29 PM UTC
Looking good, you are extremely detail oriented, I like that.

Which rivets are you using? I would suggest MasterClub offerings in resin... several different shapes, number of different sizes. I'm sure you would find some that could be useful for your build.

Mario
2805662
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Australian Capital Territory, Australia
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Posted: Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 11:57 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Looking good, you are extremely detail oriented, I like that.

Which rivets are you using? I would suggest MasterClub offerings in resin... several different shapes, number of different sizes. I'm sure you would find some that could be useful for your build.

Mario



Thanks Mario - I don't really have a choice with the details at 1/16 scale! What it does mean is that I can choose a component & replicate it as a discrete task.

Thanks for the tip on the Master Club resin rivets. I've got a mix of Grandt Line bolts and T2M rivets for this build. I think the drilled 0.7mm ones are perfect for Landrover rivets. Still, I'll check them out.

And thanks for watching.
2805662
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Australian Capital Territory, Australia
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Posted: Monday, January 27, 2014 - 08:19 AM UTC
Finished up the ring lashings/tie-downs with these:



I admit I was putting off threading 0.9 mm diameter (OD) washers over 0.3 mm stem hex rivets. Seriously -



Anyway, four rivets per ring lashing later, it's done:



Only have to rivet the floor battery compartment. 16 to go.
grimmo
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Monday, January 27, 2014 - 04:29 PM UTC
nice work greg. i'd hate to do this in 1/35 scale!
I wonder why they went with that way to close the bins using a key. wouldn't it be easier to use the t locks like they have on trucks?
2805662
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Posted: Monday, January 27, 2014 - 06:17 PM UTC

Quoted Text

nice work greg. i'd hate to do this in 1/35 scale!
I wonder why they went with that way to close the bins using a key. wouldn't it be easier to use the t locks like they have on trucks?



It was waaaaaaay faster in 1/35.

The key to the bin is the standard Landrover T bar - is that the same thing?
grimmo
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Monday, January 27, 2014 - 10:13 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

nice work greg. i'd hate to do this in 1/35 scale!
I wonder why they went with that way to close the bins using a key. wouldn't it be easier to use the t locks like they have on trucks?



It was waaaaaaay faster in 1/35.

The key to the bin is the standard Landrover T bar - is that the same thing?



sorry, I meant the side top opening bins. how are they opened?
2805662
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Posted: Tuesday, January 28, 2014 - 05:37 AM UTC
Ah, got it. The T keys are used to unlock all the stowage bins on/in the tray, including the sponsons.
grimmo
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Tuesday, January 28, 2014 - 06:08 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Ah, got it. The T keys are used to unlock all the stowage bins on/in the tray, including the sponsons.



cheers greg. I hope they kept a few spares in the rovers
2805662
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Australian Capital Territory, Australia
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Posted: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 - 08:15 AM UTC
There are three different ways the LRPV is designed to carry jerry cans. Firstly, there's the integral stowage slots in the sponsons - 1 can adjacent the fuel fillers on the RHS, 2 cans on the LHS. Secondly, there are fittings on the tray wall designed to attach square section rod across the top of 5 cans across the width of the tray, up to two deep. The last comprise anchor points fitted to the tray wall, three per jerry, with three jerry cans catered for per side.

Part 2 of one part of the jerry can stowage today - in this case, the anchor/tie-down points. Part 1 was the plotting & drilling of the rivet holes. Part 2 was the punching of 36 x 0.43" discs from 10 thou plastic.



These were then glued over the pre-drilled holes. The pre-drilling should reduce the torsional stress on the cemented discs and relieve the pressure on the (very fragile) drill bit as it moves through the 10 thou disc to the tray wall itself. Operative task verb in this instance is hope.



Tomorrow I'll drill the tie down pads, add the 0.7mm rivets & some 0.5 mm rod for the cross piece for the anchor point.
2805662
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Australian Capital Territory, Australia
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Posted: Thursday, January 30, 2014 - 08:48 AM UTC
The (unintended) side effect of gluing thin styrene discs over pre-drilled holes is a small dimple in the centre of the disc. This forms a handy drilling guide for a 0.4 mm drill bit in a pin-vise. Winning.



(Ignore the rectangular plates with holes - they're part of the cross-tray bar for jerry can stowage)

After drilling 36 0.4 mm holes, it's time to insert 36 0.7 mm drilled rivets from T2M. Not so winning.



Next is the addition of a section of 0.5 mm rod to bridge the gap between the riveted disc 'pads', forming the tie-downs themselves.




Quick width check with a jerry can (& a bit of a morale hit)



Winner, winner chicken dinner.
2805662
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Australian Capital Territory, Australia
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Posted: Friday, January 31, 2014 - 08:47 AM UTC
The final jerry can stowage is the anchor-point for the cross-tray bars. There are four anchor points on each side of the tray. The lower, forward two 'face' rearward and are intended to prevent jerry cans moving forward into the tray. The upper, rearward two anchor points face forward and are bolted in position using the recess that runs the length of the tray.

There's been a couple of steps to get to this point, 2 x 4.1 mm strips have been cut, plotted, glued and drilled. Rivets were then added. These rectangular strips form the base of the anchor points for the jerry can stowage cross members.

The squared off 'c' - the actual piece that 'holds' the cross bar - was cut from 2mm angle section.



These lengths were then cemented & set aside to dry.



These will be cut flush with the surrounding protuberances once dry.

Almost done on the tray wall details....
Stickframe
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California, United States
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Posted: Friday, January 31, 2014 - 10:00 AM UTC
Hi Greg - thanks for showing the steps along the way - this has been very interesting and idea-generating to follow - nice build!

Cheers
Nick
2805662
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Australian Capital Territory, Australia
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Posted: Friday, January 31, 2014 - 11:07 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Greg - thanks for showing the steps along the way - this has been very interesting and idea-generating to follow - nice build!

Cheers
Nick



Thanks Nick,

I know there's a bit of teeth-grinding detail in the step-by-step, I'm glad it's useful to someone other than just myself

I'll hope it'll be useful reference for any forthcoming kit, should there be one.

Greg
Stickframe
#362
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Posted: Friday, January 31, 2014 - 12:02 PM UTC
Hi Greg - prior to this build, I knew very little about the truck - so, that is interesting, next, I do a fair amount of scratchbuilding, so following this has been great just to see your use of materials and the techniques your using - good stuff!

Cheers
Nick