I don't recall if the tail was always that big or not. I recall the beast did have structural problems associated with the empennage during testing. I think the SB2C looks very nice from below, good in a front 3-Q view, but that tail is just clownish. I also don't like the way the bottom fuselage profile curves from the trailing edge up into the tail. Probably sound aeronautical engineering, just not aesthetic to me. Of course, Siderius can tell you I have odd tastes in aircraft design.

I like the big tail, adds to it's charm. A comprehensive history of the Helldiver can be found here

And so, to weathering. I decided to use a home mixed mid-grey sludgy oil wash to both highlight the panel lines and slightly fade the sea blue uppers. I sloshed this on and after a while began to remove / rub in the wash using a q-tip moistened with thinner. While rubbing over the decals, I noticed that the thinner was dissolving the carrier film. I was concerned at first but soon realised that the actual marking was still firmly stuck to the model and appeared un-damaged. 'What the heck' I thought and proceeded to remove the carrier film from all the decals using the same process. I have heard of modellers doing this on purpose to their models but have never tried it myself. Looks like it works!

I attached the rear gunners seat after scratch building belts and a back strap from wine bottle foil as none are supplied in the kit.

I then commenced the tedious job of masking all the clear panels and there are a lot of them (Eduard now do a set of masks to enable this to be done much quicker and easier). The clear parts are very thin and fragile (Ask me how I know). While removing the pilots sliding canopy and the fixed canopy behind the gunners station, both parts snapped in half along the spine. I had wanted to pose the pilots canopy open but now opted to button it up, as the canopy didn't sit right in the open position. The rear sliding canopy does not fit well in the open position either but I am hoping to 'persuade' it otherwise. After completing the masking, I turned my attention to the prop and undercarriage. I tried in vain to make some circular masks for the wheel hubs but decide in the end to paint the tyres freehand. I used thinned Gunze tyre black with a drop of Tamiya acrylic retarder and applied several thin coats. The photo shows the wheels after just one coat. With the prop, I sprayed the tips yellow, masked them off and then sprayed Tamiya flat black which dried to a semi gloss sheen (???). The prop boss was hand painted with Humbrol silver enamel and given a dark wash.

Next job is to apply the flat coat and attach all the sticky-out bits.

Mike, really nice paint scheme. Your free hand camo came out perfect.

Not sure I understand how the thinner from your wash just removes the clear carrier film but doesn't attack the painted parts of the decal. While not an expect on how decals are actually made, I would think that the thinner would attack the whole decal. Can anyone enlighten me as to why this method works.

Your decision to use the light gray weathered wash on the
Dark Sea Blue really helps to highlight the panel areas. I tried it on my F4U-1A build, and over did it by using it on the Gray/Blue as well, which should have used a regular darker wash for those panel lines.

Funny that you mentioned that the Tamiya Acrylic flat Black often dries with a Matt finish rather then a flat finish. I've experienced that several times and thought I used the wrong paint by mistake. Not sure why this happens either.

Looking forward to your next update.

Joel

Hi Joel
There is an article in the December 2012 issue of Model Airplane International which explains this technique and cautions that it will not work on all decals, but those from China seem to be OK. I would say it's best to test the theory on some unused decals first before commiting.

Mike,
Thanks. Will try to find that article.
Joel

Mike I have been reading through your build and the links within and finding some very useful information. I'm looking forward to seeing it finished Have fun Phil

After the flat coat had dried, it was time for the big reveal. I painstakingly removed all the masking from the clear parts and was pleasantly surprised to find that there was very little touch up required. Any minor paint bleed was removed with a cocktail stick dipped in Windex and gently rubbed away.

Now it was time to get this baby on it's feet. From dry fitting the parts I knew that the undercarriage was likely to be a bear to line up. The fit of the main struts to the airframe was akin to throwing a sausage down the Mersey Tunnel and the rear bracing strut had no positive location points at all. I glued the main struts very loosely in place and waited for the glue to set up a bit. Then attached the rear strut and wiggled the whole lot about a bit until it looked straight, before setting the model aside to enable the glue to dry, while periodically checking alignment. Very poor engineering on Cyber Hobbies part.

After the undercarriage was properly set, I attached the rear machine guns.

Then the propeller.

All that is left to do is attach the arrestor hook, bomb bay doors and radar antennae, so my next update should be of the completed model (phew!)

Mike, she's coming out great. The main gear struts look properly aligned to me. Nice going.

I only have one small suggestion that should be easy to correct. The Horse Shoe on the Vertical Stabilizer goes across to the rudder without shrinking into the recess to look as if it was painted. I would suggest that you cut the decal, then with some setting solution have it settle into the recess. Not sure about the other side, as all your pictures are only of that one side.

Joel

I'm now calling this done.



I painted and fitted all the fiddly bits and added an antenna wire. The rear canopy would not sit down enough without being forced into place and I didn't trust any glue to do the job. So I drilled 2 small holes in the canopies lower frame and 2 corresponding holes in the fuselage and used a small length of thin guitar string as a pin to hold it in place. This can only be seen if you look really closely but it holds the canopy down enough to look reasonable (to my eye it is still a bit high).



To conclude this build review, I would not make this kit again due to the many issues listed above and would not recommend it as an easy build or for a beginner. If I hadn't started this thread and felt it my duty to finish it, I think it would definitely be sitting on the shelf of doom by now. Having said that, it actually looks quite good built up and sitting aboard the good ship 'Whirlpool'.





Regards to all who followed and commented. You kept me going! Till next time, cheers.

Wow, really nice finish to this model!

Really good of you to point out all the errors in the instructions too. I haven't built any Dragon kits, but I got their Meteor F.3 in the post this morning, and it looks really good. The interior on your Helldiver looks superb, both the quality of the parts and your painting/assembly.

Great work!

Thanks Ben and good luck with the Meteor. In the box, this kit looked great as well. I would caution you to test fit every step of the way and keep an eye out for erroneous instructions. Also check the sprues for parts not mentioned in the instructions or marked as not for use, they may well come in handy later.

Mike, congrats on another one in the finished column. Sticking with a tough and not so great kit to its completion is the mark of a great builder. I've had more then my fair share of boxed up and never to see the light of day again kits.

Joel