login   |    register
Tools & Supplies: Glue and Adhesives
Talk about sticky stuff.
Hosted by Matt Leese
The best putty
Hefaistos
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Cluj, Romania
Joined: February 07, 2009
KitMaker: 17 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 07, 2009 - 10:14 AM UTC
Firs of all I want to say hello to every one!I am a new guy aroung here.I have a quik question.Which of the folowing putty's are the best to start building miniature?
http://jotte.istore.pl/pl/product/browse?category=95756
thank you for your help

(MOD: made link Live)
TCBurns
_VISITCOMMUNITY
United States
Joined: February 07, 2009
KitMaker: 4 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 06:39 AM UTC
The best answer is "it depends". It depends on what you're building, and can even depend on what you are trying to fill and where it's located on the model.

For "miniatures", I presume you mean figures. In that case, many of the two-part epoxy putties listed on the web page you linked to would be suitable. Magic Sculpt, Aves Apoxie, Tamiya and Gunze epoxy putties, and the classic Milliput would be suitable for filling seams between parts and scupting new features such as puttees, jackets, etc. Figure modelers may know more.

For model aircraft, epoxy putties can also be useful for filling large gaps or depressions or for changing contours, such as adding varous lumps and bumps for antennas. Many newer kits by Tamiya, Hasegawa, and others fit so well that they require virtually no putty, but older kits and offerings from smaller-scale manufacturers can often require a lot. Much depends, too, on the skill of the builder and the time and effort they put into test fitting parts and making adjustments prior to assembly. Larger gaps and seams or altered contours can sometimes be filled or biult up with pieces or laminations of sytrene sheet or with stretched sprue, glued in place.

Traditionally, seams, sinkmarks and such have usually been fixed using an automotive-type one-part body putty. Most of them are lacquer-based, so they "attack" the underlying plastic, ensuring a good bond. Here in the U.S. many modelers use spot putties purchased from auto body suppliers. I've long favored a one-part glazing putty from 3M called "Acryl-Blue" which, though a bit expensive, has a very fine texure, grips well, sands easily, exhibits relatively little shrinkage, The tube it comes in is so large that it will last a lifetime if properly stored. Smaller quantities of similar putty aimed expressedly at modelers are available from Humbrol, Tamiya, and GunzeSangyo/GSI Creos, Testors, Molak's "Stucco" brand, and the old Squadron Green and White putties.

Recent years have seen some more advanced products added to our arsenal of fillers. Gunze/GSI manufacturers a line of liquid primer-filers called "Mr Surfacer" that come in different grades. Mr. Surfacer is basically a thickened lacquer primer that can be applied to small imperfections with a paintbrush and sanded flush when dry. A similar product is available from Tamiya. Gunze also sells a "Mr Liquid Putty", which is basically a thinned-down version of their white lacquer based tube putty. It's used much like Mr Surfacer, but has a much heavier body and better filling qualities. Vallejo offers an acrylic model filler that can be cut with water, allowing the modeler to apply it to a seam and them wipe away the excess with a damp cloth, elminiating the need for sanding and finishing of the joint.

Many modelers today also use cyanoacrylate adhesives (CA or "super glue") as fillers. CA is normally used as an adhesive, but in comes in varying grades from water-thin to others the consistency of heavy syrup. These latter grades are designed for filling seams and altering contours. To speed the curing process they can be rapidly set using "accelerator" chemicals. The only caveat with CA as a filler is that it has to be worked and finish sanded very soon after it has set; when it fully cures in six to twelve hours it can be very hard - harder than the surrounding plastic - and is substantially more difficult to sand flush.

Hefaistos
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Cluj, Romania
Joined: February 07, 2009
KitMaker: 17 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 09:34 AM UTC
thak you for the aswer
the info that you gave me are super