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Armor/AFV: Allied - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Allied forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Italieri's M4 SHERMAN
User_789
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Sweden
Joined: June 09, 2002
KitMaker: 476 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 29, 2003 - 12:16 AM UTC
Hi!

I bought this kit this afternoon on IPMS open in Stockholm, I haven't yet opened it... Btw, I am participating with a figure, Roman Centurion by Verlinden, on IPMS Open. I will post the results on figue forum...


To the kit... I have never painted or done an armor, so if anyone know a page about painting or building a sherman WITHOUT an airbrush, please post here.

Thanks!

User_789
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Sweden
Joined: June 09, 2002
KitMaker: 476 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 29, 2003 - 02:52 AM UTC
Anyone?
stugiiif
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Virginia, United States
Joined: December 13, 2002
KitMaker: 1,434 posts
AeroScale: 403 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 29, 2003 - 02:55 AM UTC
I'd say be careful and use something the retard dry time so you dont get brush strucks!!! them wash is usually done with a brush anyway, and i've yet to see anyone use an airbrush for drybrushing!!!! stug
herberta
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Canada
Joined: March 06, 2002
KitMaker: 939 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 29, 2003 - 02:59 AM UTC
Hi Jamal

Welcome to the dark side!

My M4A1 Sherman (and all other kits I've built just about) is painted without an airbrush.

I used Pollyscale US Olive Drab. I use the paint right out of the bottle. I primed the kit with a dark green/drab color (one coat, out of the bottle). I use a wide flat synthetic brush to apply a base coat. I try to brush in one direction only. After letting this dry a few days, I apply another thin coat, brushing in a different direction. I use a fine brush to touch up areas I've missed.

Overall the coat looks good. I weathered my Sherman with a Raw Umber wash and then pastels will be applied once it's on the base. My in progress photos were posted in the M4A176 group build thread.

Cheers
Andy
M113
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Istanbul, Turkey / Türkçe
Joined: March 02, 2003
KitMaker: 411 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 29, 2003 - 03:01 AM UTC
Join th club Jamal :-)

I've just posted one today. I hope u like it !?

Why don't u try to use Tamiya's spray lacquers ? TS-5, which is equivalent to Humbrol 155 or again Tamiya's XF-62.

http://groups.msn.com/armorama/m113.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=6861

Check there
RIMA
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Overijssel, Netherlands
Joined: September 08, 2002
KitMaker: 285 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 29, 2003 - 03:18 AM UTC
I never air brusched my vehicules, I wondn't dare trying it because to be honest may make a mess out of it, wife won't be pleased.I find it a challenge to paint in a way that it will not be abvoius to see which it is ( air busch or not ).
Do not use a lot of paint, gentely paint the object ( again not to much paint )and with another fine brusch spread or dry it. it is not easy but don't be afraid train on other object i did learn the techniek during a normal house painting job ( try a door for exempel ) sounds stupide but if you do not see any drop of paint of line and it is fine done the n you won't see the difference between self painting and a painter job then you are better than air brush ( sorry for the one hoe love that object ).
Any way the thing that will cover you brusch work is the wah work it end the vehicule and the little mistake.
ZO IN 1 WORD DON'T USE TO MUCH PAINT BE CARFULL THERE.
Good luck
Hollowpoint
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Kansas, United States
Joined: January 24, 2002
KitMaker: 2,748 posts
AeroScale: 9 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 29, 2003 - 05:52 PM UTC
For overall painting, you may want to try a rattle can (spray can paint). Model Masters or Tamya OD are good.

I would suggest you warm the paint before you spray -- I use a pot of the hottest water i can get from the tap, then float the can in the pot of hot water for about 5-10 minutes. Shake well before and after you put it in the hot water.

When you spray, keep the can moving. Start spraying on one side, then move across and don't saturate it too much at any point. For best results, do more than one coat of paint -- about an hour apart is usually OK.

When you are done with each paint session, turn the can upside down and spray until it is clear -- this cleans the nozzle.
User_789
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Sweden
Joined: June 09, 2002
KitMaker: 476 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 29, 2003 - 09:27 PM UTC
Thanks for the advices guys, I will try to paint with brushes.

BTW: I will try to do an Polished steel "undercoat". I will use then 80% paint (Olive drab) and 20% thinner, for a sort of "overcoat". A tank is made by steel, why not paint it by steel?

This maybe seems like a waste of money, but it maybe get good result, what do you think?
210cav
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Virginia, United States
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
AeroScale: 32 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 29, 2003 - 10:41 PM UTC
Jamal--here are some reliminary shots of my effort:
http://groups.msn.com/armorama/pictures?Page=16
I completed the model. I substituted basswood for the kit provided side boards and used small nails to replicate anchor points. Great model.
DJ
herberta
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Canada
Joined: March 06, 2002
KitMaker: 939 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 30, 2003 - 03:57 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks for the advices guys, I will try to paint with brushes.

BTW: I will try to do an Polished steel "undercoat". I will use then 80% paint (Olive drab) and 20% thinner, for a sort of "overcoat". A tank is made by steel, why not paint it by steel?



I think it's not a great idea!
for one: you are adding more coats of paint, so that could cause problems
second: the color of plain rolled or cast steel is probably not polished. I bet it's more of a grey black color. SO if you used a very dark grey primer that would serve the same purpose.
third: isn't polished steel likely to be an enamel? Painting acrylics over enamel in a large area can be a problem according to some (I've never tried it).

So if you are talking about a dark grey primer coat, I think it's cool, otherwise it's risky.

Of course, it's your model!!! :-)

Cheers
Andy
thewrongguy
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: October 17, 2002
KitMaker: 448 posts
AeroScale: 34 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 30, 2003 - 10:57 AM UTC
for a one colour paint job like a sherman I'd just use a rattle can/spray bomb. You can literally do in 5-6 minutes what would take you hours with a brush, and might look better to boot. A spray can is what a 2-3 buck premium over the bottle mixture, I'd say it's worth the investment. Besides having some O.D in a spray can is convenient for alot of allied subjects like stowage or gear, stuff thats usually too much of a paint to airbrush or hand paint.

Jeff
herberta
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Canada
Joined: March 06, 2002
KitMaker: 939 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 30, 2003 - 11:01 AM UTC
Hi Jeff

I agree a spray can is fast. It's also toxic, a piece of hazardous waste when you are done, and one needs a good spot for spraying. I've used a spray can for base coats a few times, and although fast, it was no fun.

I'm a throwback though. I'm part of the very small anti-airbrush coalition of brush painters! #:-)

Cheers
Andy
Bombshell
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New York, United States
Joined: January 22, 2002
KitMaker: 293 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 30, 2003 - 01:13 PM UTC
If I were you I would go with spray cans also. What I would do is to assemble the whole model (minus the road weels and boggies), than prime it with black from a spray can. Next You could spray the whole tank with OD (also from a spray can). You could than assemble and paint the drive gear and install it on the model. Finnaly, do some detail paiting with a brush, do a drybrush and weathering. It should look pretty good and would be much easier than using a brush for painting.

Cheers,

CDT Reimund Manneck
U.S. Army ROTC
Plasticbattle
#003
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Donegal, Ireland
Joined: May 14, 2002
KitMaker: 9,763 posts
AeroScale: 35 posts
Posted: Monday, March 31, 2003 - 12:42 AM UTC
Hey Jamal. In Biltema they sell cans of spray for models. They have sprays in dark green or light olive. The light olive looks good when finished and costs 29 sek. This is how I sprayed all my kits before I got an airbrush. Make sure you get the matt colours. No need to prime. A can of humbrol light olive costs 69 sek in Wentzels. I cant see any differnece. When left to dry for 24 + hours you can wash and dry brush on top with no problems!