Utilising experience from both the concepts of the Me P1092 series and the Me 328, the design team led by Rudolf Seitz began work on the P.1095, deciding to use as many existing components from other aircraft as possible, to cut down the development and retooling time.
The first P.1095 design of October 1943 was proposed in two versions. One was to use the entire Me 262 tail unit (horizontal tail and fin/rudder) along with a wooden wing, the other used the entire Me 328 tail unit (horizontal tail and fin/rudder) along with a slightly smaller all metal wing.Ü Both versions featured leading edge flaps over the entire span.
The two different P.1095 versions used the same fuselage, which included a 53 gallon fuel tank between the nose and cockpit, and two 156 gallon fuel tanks directly aft of the pilot. The radio and other equipment was to be placed aft of the rear fuel tanks ahead of the tail which was a common Messerschmitt design feature. The power was to be provided by a single Jumo 004B jet engine, located below the fuselage. This had the advantage of being easily serviced, but the drawback of the possibility of the ingestion of foreign matter into the intake from the nose wheel on takeoff. The tricycle undercarriage and the main wheels were also from the Me 309.
Two MK 108 30mm cannon were to be the main armament and were located in the nose.
There was an additional design from October 19, 1943 for the Me P.1095, which featured an overall differently shaped aircraft with slightly swept wings, but not many details have survived about this version.
The P.1095 project was discontinued in early 1944, due to the fact that the engine location was felt to be disadvantageous, and the performance was less than the Me 262 twin jet fighter, which was about to come into service. An interesting note, the Me 328 was resurrected at this point as a possible "sacrificial" aircraft, but was not ever used in this role.
The kits' contents are:
Resin Parts: 24
Clear Parts: 1
Decals: For 2 aircraft (Number choice only)
All main parts are good with nice clean detail and panel lines.
There are two sets of tailplanes supplied to make one of two different versions, but not sure how accurate this is as the tail fin and main wings also were changed depending on which version. The kit is based on the version that used Me262 tail parts so the others should be put aside.
To prevent tail sitting an extensive bit of drilling out is necessary. Drilling out the engine nacelle should be straightforward enough with weight secured at the front end, but if this is not enough further lightening will be necessary. The problem is where. Having given this a quick look, first impression would be to drill out the rear fuselage through the rear of the cockpit. it'll be relatively easy to plug the hole and the seat back will hide most of this if not all.
Another area that may help if drilled out is the nose, again from the cockpit, as this would allow the ballast to be placed well forward for greater effect. (Please see diagram) However extreme caution is advisable when drilling out, to avoid damaging the outer surfaces.
As the wings and fuselage are butt jointed, reinforcing with brass rod is probably necessary.
PLEASE NOTE: There is one area that causes some concern and that is the thickness of the resin over the wheel wells on the wings. This is very thin, so extra care is needed to avoid accidentally breaking through or a fillet could be made from plastic card to pack up the thickness from inside the wheel well. (Please see diagram)
The smaller parts are generally good.
The cockpit is a little basic for detailing and some may wish to add more. Etched parts for any Me262 may prove useful for adaptation.
As is normal with resin kits most of the small parts come in groups attached to large and thin resin flakes for transit protection. Careful removal is necessary, but as the flakes are thin it's a pretty straightforward exercise to remove them.
Another area common with resin kits is that often the undercarriage legs are a little thin and may not strong enough to support the weight of the assembled model. So, very often reinforcing them or finding stronger alternatives is advisable. The other answer would be to scratch build new ones from metal rod and tube.
All parts need a little clean up and a wash in soapy water and rinse to get rid of any casting release agents.
One vacuformed canopy is provided and is nice and clear with good frame marking, but would benefit a dip in Future/Klear.
INSTRUCTIONS & DECALS
Although not extensive the assembly guide is clear and simple enough. On the reverse side of the single sheet are a brief history and a good camouflage scheme painting diagram.
The decals are of decent quality but are basic , prompting the suggestion that additional or replacement decals might be a good idea. However most decals sheets for late Me Bf109's or Me 262 should prove useful. Swastikas are provided.
Considering this is one of Planets older models, it is still up to the market standards. It will make a very attractive addition to any collection of the more unusual.
Although it is a simple kit, due to the extensive drilling out and the need for stronger undercarriage legs I would recommend this kit for the more experienced modeller. However with a great deal of care and patience a newcomer to resin kits may enjoy the challenge.
About Peter Allen (flitzer) FROM: ENGLAND - NORTH WEST, UNITED KINGDOM
Greetings to all.
My real name is Peter Allen and I have recently returned to UK from working in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, as a creative director in an advertising agency.
My home town is Wigan in the north of England.
Iím married to Emily, a Polish lass who tolerates my modelling well.