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Discuss all types of automotive modeling here.
Hosted by Damian Rigby
When Im 64 (1936-2000)
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, June 16, 2019 - 11:33 PM UTC
D,
That's some really impressive engine detailing. I was wondering just how you were going to address the plug wire holes in the heads. Usually I just add a drop of thick CCA and paint it the color of the heads, but your idea should add another level of visual detail.

I've also had issues with painting Copper and Brass wire with respect to some of the paint flaking off when I used Acrylics, but Enamels seemed to work the best for me.

Joel
AussieReg
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Posted: Thursday, June 20, 2019 - 01:58 AM UTC

Quoted Text

D,
That's some really impressive engine detailing. I was wondering just how you were going to address the plug wire holes in the heads. Usually I just add a drop of thick CCA and paint it the color of the heads, but your idea should add another level of visual detail.

I've also had issues with painting Copper and Brass wire with respect to some of the paint flaking off when I used Acrylics, but Enamels seemed to work the best for me.



Thanks for the info Joel. I have a jar of Tamiya Enamel in Titanium Gold so I will give that a try on the ignition leads when the time comes.

I have spent a couple of relaxing nights working on the hairspray chipping on the body of the rusty shell. I've said it earlier, but just working with a cup of water, a stiff brush, some cotton buds and paper towel and slowly working away to reveal the base layer is just great fun.










I have locked this in with a couple of good coats of Dullcote now as I am happy with the level of chipping. I also decanted some more hairspray into a measuring cup and sprayed it neat through the airbrush onto the fenders and running boards of the base as they will get a few patches of Black and Nato Black to represent the remnants of the top colour, and this will in turn be chipped away and then locked in with Dullcote.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, June 20, 2019 - 05:41 AM UTC
D,
You've mastered the Rust look perfectly.

Joel
md72
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Posted: Thursday, June 20, 2019 - 06:05 AM UTC
Well, D, I'm beginning to think I really hate you. You make it it look so good and seem so easy. You have given me inspiration for one of the junkers in the stash. I thought I was getting a bagged kit, but it was just the white plastic parts from the same kit as my '69 Camaro Z-28, no chrome, decals or rubber, might not even have the clear stuff. Might work out as a junk yard dog yet.
Hwa-Rang
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Posted: Thursday, June 20, 2019 - 06:31 PM UTC
Wow, this is seriously good D.

Is there a time frame, when working with hairspray? Does the effect wear of over time, making it impossible to chip any further?
AussieReg
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Posted: Thursday, June 20, 2019 - 07:23 PM UTC
Many thanks for the positive feedback guys, I really do appreciate it. As I said earlier, this is my first time trying Hairspray Chipping, but I have studied so many books, videos and project build logs that it honestly feels like I have been doing it for years!


Quoted Text

Wow, this is seriously good D.

Is there a time frame, when working with hairspray? Does the effect wear of over time, making it impossible to chip any further?



Hi Jesper.

I don't believe that there is any time limit on the usability of the hairspray itself, it is well locked in under the paint and the water penetrating through the paint just reactivates it. From what I have read it is recommended not to leave the paint to cure for too long if you are using lacquers as it makes it very hard to get water to penetrate through without using a sharp object to scratch through and let it get underneath. I am going to stick with acrylics, and I left this for over a week before I worked on the body, and I found no problem getting the paint to start lifting. I worked small areas at any one time, applied a good coat of water and worked it in with a stiff brush, then let it sit for a minute or so and started to scrub at it. Once I could see the paint starting to lift I dabbed it with paper towel to take away most of the water, and worked on the paint to get the desired finish. Again, once I was happy with the effect I dried it thoroughly with paper towel to stop the moisture from going any further under the paint.

With the hairspray application itself, I found that if I sprayed it directly from the can it left a white residue on the surface in some places. I didn't mind this because it just adds to the variation. I also tried decanting the hairspray into a plastic cup, left it for a few minutes, then tipped it straight into the airbrush cup and sprayed it on. It sprayed very nicely and left no residue, and I had much more control of where it was applied.

I hope this helps.

Cheers, D
RussellE
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Posted: Sunday, June 23, 2019 - 12:05 AM UTC
the bullet holes look awesome!
AussieReg
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Posted: Sunday, June 23, 2019 - 12:54 AM UTC

Quoted Text

the bullet holes look awesome!



Thanks Russ. Looking at the reference image, the bullet holes are all surrounded by dark rust, so the next step is to use a fine brush to put in a drop of Dark Rust, let it cure a bit, then streak it down with the brush just slightly damp with enamel thinner.



Cheers, D
AussieReg
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Posted: Sunday, June 23, 2019 - 01:54 AM UTC
And here is the first part of the process, I have applied some of the Crusted Rust Deposits (in Dark Rust and Medium Rust) in the bullet holes and where the chipping process went down to bare plastic, and started a little bit of downwards streaking. It still needs a bit of work but hopefully you can see where this is heading.






Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, June 23, 2019 - 08:47 AM UTC
D,
OMG!! You've taken rusting & Bullet holes to a level I've never seen before.

Joel
AussieReg
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Posted: Monday, June 24, 2019 - 03:33 AM UTC
Joel, I'm just following the advice of many much more experienced modellers from around the globe. The internet is an amazing device for sharing this type of information on products and techniques, I would never have been able to product this type of result by trial and error!

The next stage in this build is to reproduce some residual faded black paint on a couple of areas on the floor/fender assembly. First step was to apply some Tamiya Acrylic Nato Black XF-69 followed by a smaller application of Flat Black XF-1.


I gave this some time to cure during which time I did some more work on the Crusted Rust Deposits on the body shell. After about 30 minutes I started working on the RHS front and rear fenders and running boards with the water/short brush/Q-tip technique and this was the result.


I'm very happy with the look of this now, just some random areas of faded and chipped black remaining from the original finish.
Here is a front view showing the RHS fender which has been chipped, and the LHS fender which I will leave for a day or two and then work on.


As always, I welcome any feedback, comments, advice or critique on the work so far.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, June 24, 2019 - 03:59 AM UTC
D,
Your building this one on a whole new level.

Joel
AussieReg
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Posted: Wednesday, June 26, 2019 - 10:04 PM UTC
Thanks Joel, definitely a whole new level for me!

I did some more of the hairspray chipping on the LHS of the chassis/fender assembly, then got stuck into adding some more of the Crusted Rust Deposits in strategic places. Once it was cured I thought it might be time to have a look at the whole picture so I dry-fitted the shell to the base.





I also did some work on the interior door panels that I scratch-built. From the pictures I can see that I need to do some blending on the rust effects. It is a bit blotchy.




Cheers, D
Hwa-Rang
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Posted: Wednesday, June 26, 2019 - 11:23 PM UTC
Looks amazing. You're right part of the AK-rust could do with a little blending. Ak-crusted rust is easily manipulated though, even dry on dry.
AussieReg
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Posted: Thursday, June 27, 2019 - 12:02 AM UTC
Thanks Jesper. I will get onto the rust blending tonight.

Just in case you thought I was slacking off, here's an update on the stock '36. Second coat of black is on, Tamiya LP-1, and tomorrow it will get a fine wet sand.




Cheers, D
AussieReg
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Posted: Thursday, June 27, 2019 - 01:42 AM UTC
One thing I've never been able to get right in my eyes is a leather look. The colour or the texture or the sheen is never right. I did some Googling and had a look around at my LHS at some paint brands that I had never tried before to see if I could come up with something that I am happy with.

Some experimenting tonight on the front seat of the stock '36 has given me hope!




My formula was 50/50 paint and thinner, about 6 drops of each, mixed in the airbrush cup, then a couple of drops of flow improver (which seems to be some kind of retarder). The seat was already primed with Mr Surfacer Black, so I laid down a coat of the Red Leather. I gave that about 5 minutes to cure, and while it was curing I added a few drops of the Saddle Brown to the cup and mixed it in with the Red Leather, then applied the new darker colour around the edges and on the panel highlights and the recess between the seat and seat back. The effect is subtle but definitely noticeable, and I really like the colours and sheen level. I will tweak it a bit more with some cloth polishing and oil pin-wash.

Cheers, D
ChurchSTSV
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Posted: Thursday, June 27, 2019 - 02:58 AM UTC
Ya know that feeling you get when you accidently scratch rusted metal and it makes the hair on the bag of your neck stand up?

I get that looking at these pictures.
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, June 27, 2019 - 03:53 AM UTC
D,
The Gloss Black paint really looks good at this stage. What grades of sandpaper do you use to rub it out?

As for the look of leather, I've never found anything I was really happy with. No matter what I used it looked more like semi Gloss paint as the shine was just not right. Then I accidently found out that skin oil from your forehead lightly rubbed into the paint produces a leather look, or at least closer then I've ever gotten before.

Joel
RussellE
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Posted: Thursday, June 27, 2019 - 09:43 AM UTC
Wow! This is just great work D!

The leather looks great as does the rusted out hulk.

The stock cruiser is coming along nicely
Hwa-Rang
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Posted: Sunday, June 30, 2019 - 11:53 PM UTC

Quoted Text

As for the look of leather, I've never found anything I was really happy with



I prefer oil's, when painting leather.
AussieReg
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Posted: Tuesday, July 02, 2019 - 01:31 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I prefer oil's, when painting leather.



I've seen some great results with oils, but I need a lot of practice as I have only ever used oils for pinwashes and weathering highlights, not solid colour work.

I took a couple of steps backwards on the rusted shell, after being lazy and trying to shortcut the details at the start.

Firstly, I am planning to display the rims strewn around the car body, or possibly in a pile, so why did I leave the moulded on wheelnuts on the rims? I trimmed them off with the tip of an Xacto, formed the little dished section with a 1.2mm bit, and then drilled through with a 0.8mm bit. This might be a bit oversize against the 1:1 stud holes, but I tried a 0.4mm bit to start with and it was barely visible. Scale accuracy vs visual impact.



Next up on the rectification schedule is the running boards. The ribbed rubber mats are applied over the flat sheet metal running board, but I went ahead and chipped and rusted over the ribbed area which really stood out to me afterwards. Out came the Dremel with the angry round burr and away we went, carving out the rusted areas and along the side of the running board to represent where the rubber mat had perished and broken away and the rust had taken hold. I brushed on some of the Brown Oxide primer then after some curing time worked in some of the Crusted Rust Effects. Still more work to do with blending, oils and pigments, but I'm happy that it looks better, and certainly more interesting.

RHS progress shots:




LHS progress shots:




Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, July 02, 2019 - 01:46 AM UTC
D,
Talk about realistic looking. Your build is taking on a whole new dimension.

Joel
KoSprueOne
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Posted: Tuesday, July 02, 2019 - 01:17 PM UTC
The realism on that hair spray rusting technique is outstanding




AussieReg
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Posted: Wednesday, July 03, 2019 - 02:04 AM UTC
Joel, thanks again, your continued support is very much appreciated.

KSO, great to see you here mate, I'm glad you like the work I've put in so far!

Cheers, D
AussieReg
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
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Posted: Wednesday, July 03, 2019 - 04:54 PM UTC
I'm happy with the base work on the rusted body, so I have locked it in now with a couple of coats of Dullcote. With an eye to the diorama I will be using the rumble seat and front panels from the car body, and have started to assemble a few odds and ends to paint up and weather to add to the general clutter.


I have the radiator, water reservoir, headlight shells, fan, steering column, steering wheel, wheel trims, front grille support panel, engine, and a couple of random pieces of sprue which I will distress and weather to look like either wood or steel. The two odd items at the back are from the rod build option, a custom rear license plate holder and a trophy mount stand. I have 3 of the trophy stands and I think they will weather up nicely to look like farm pipe flanges of some sort. I also plan to rust up the engine and sit it on a scratch built timber pallet with an oily old tarp partially covering it.

I also put a couple of coats of GX100 Super Clear on the stock build and gave it a wet sand with a square of Infini 4000g polishing pad once it cured.




The running board rubber mats and roof panel insert were painted with Tamiya Acrylic Nato Black for variety, so they are still masked up.

Cheers, D