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Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
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Sopwith Camel Clerget Project
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, September 29, 2018 - 01:04 AM UTC
D'
I love the Tamiya recessed panel line washes as they're oil based too, and to my way of thinking, oil based washes just flows the best. Just be careful that the base of the surface isn't enamel. That's why I love clear lacquers, nothing effects them.

Nice find with the generic air brush. I saw a vid on how to tune up these generic ABs. It looks pretty easy, and the results were simply amazing. For some reason I saved the link.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkqCwc5-tbA

Joel


RussellE
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Posted: Friday, September 28, 2018 - 12:14 AM UTC
good to see you still chipping away on this one Damian!

I too have just invested in the 502 oil washes and odourless thinner. Impressed so far!
AussieReg
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Posted: Thursday, September 27, 2018 - 04:42 PM UTC
Thanks guys, the feedback is much appreciated. A couple more firsts here for me, this project has been a steep learning curve.

I picked up a cheap double-action airbrush to try out for the first time (Hseng HS-80), and used it to apply the AK Xtreme metal on the cylinders. It worked well and felt good so I will be doing a few tests on the paint mules with other paints and mix ratios.

Next up will be my first try at using oil paints with odourless thinner for pin washes and streaking/staining. I picked up some 502 oils and AK rust goodies to play with.



Cheers, D
Cosimodo
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Posted: Thursday, September 27, 2018 - 12:20 PM UTC
Subtle work Damian and nicely blended in.

cheers
Michael
c4willy
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Posted: Thursday, September 27, 2018 - 07:47 AM UTC
Great to see this project again D and I second Joel's comment it looks like it could almost start!
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, September 27, 2018 - 01:38 AM UTC
D,
the Clerget engine looks are real as plastic can get. Just a great job.


Joel
AussieReg
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Posted: Wednesday, September 26, 2018 - 10:58 PM UTC
Hi folks.

As always for me it's been a while between drinks, but a sneaky little airbrush session got some heat staining on the cylinders





And, much as I hated the thought of dulling down that finish, I needed to Dullcote it to protect it for oil paint rendering and washes


As always, comments and critique welcomed.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, April 21, 2018 - 09:50 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Damian,
Looking forward to your results, as heat effects have always been something I've struggled with.

BTW, finally, my next build will be my 1st car model in nearly 10 years.

Joel



I always enjoy following your builds Joel, having one of your build log threads over on AutoModeler will be great!

F1 build?

Cheers, D



Damian,
While F1 isn't my favorite series these days, it's Indy Car as I've followed it from its Champ to Cart, to Indy Cars. That's a lot of years. I'm also getting back into IMSA/FIA endurance racing as there are 4 events here: 24 hrs of Daytona, 12 hrs of Sebring, 6 hrs at Watkins Glen, and 2 hr 40 at LimeRock park. I'm going to the LimeRock race in July.

As for F1, my interest and heart is still with the cars from 1965 through the mid 80s. once all the ground effects came in, the racing just wasn't the same.

Not sure which of 4 kits I'll be building:
Ebbro 1970 Lotus 72C of Rob Walker, Ebbro Lotus 72E, or the Tamiya Lotus 79. I also have the Ebbro Lotus 49 C of Clark's.

Joel
AussieReg
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Posted: Friday, April 20, 2018 - 08:52 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Damian,
Looking forward to your results, as heat effects have always been something I've struggled with.

BTW, finally, my next build will be my 1st car model in nearly 10 years.

Joel



I always enjoy following your builds Joel, having one of your build log threads over on AutoModeler will be great!

F1 build?

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, April 20, 2018 - 05:36 AM UTC
Damian,
Looking forward to your results, as heat effects have always been something I've struggled with.

BTW, finally, my next build will be my 1st car model in nearly 10 years.

Joel
AussieReg
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Posted: Friday, April 20, 2018 - 03:59 AM UTC
Wiggus, excellent work mate, very impressive. It's a great feeling to try out a new technique and get such a good result.
I draw my inspiration from the thousands of modelers who share their experience here and on a few other forums, so I'm really happy to have passed that on!

Apologies for the lack of progress here, I've got myself hung up on the weathering and heat staining effects and been playing around with some options.
Reposting the reference image that I am using here:


To replicate the red/brown and the faint blue I have chosen to use these (another first for me on this build). I played around with some home-brewed mixtures of clears and reds and greys but nothing gave me the effect I was happy with.


Hopefully I will get a couple of hours tonight to give this a try.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, April 19, 2018 - 09:13 PM UTC
Wiggus,
Outstanding. You two have rust down to a science.
Joel
WIggus
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Posted: Thursday, April 19, 2018 - 07:17 PM UTC
Hey Damian, I wanted to share this with you. I was so inspired by your engine stand that I wanted to give a go at rusting something. This is the dolly for a Tamiya A6M2 floatplane. Thanks for the inspiration.

RussellE
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Posted: Sunday, March 18, 2018 - 04:39 PM UTC
Well done D!

The stand looks great!
rdt1953
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Posted: Friday, March 16, 2018 - 11:24 PM UTC
Well done indeed D- the trapped small particles looking like rust bubbles real takes it over the top . Carry on and give us more please !

Cheers- Richard
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, March 16, 2018 - 08:22 PM UTC
Damian,
WOW !!

the engine stand is simply spectacular Not only does the rust look realistic, but the trapped salt looks exactly like paint bubbling from rust forming below it.

Just outstanding detailing.

Joel
AussieReg
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Posted: Friday, March 16, 2018 - 07:40 PM UTC
Richard, Carl, Joel, many thanks for your comments. I have seen the "tide marks" from the salt that you are referring to, feint white stains in the flat paint surface, but to be honest I'm not concerned. This will be getting a sludge wash and any feint white marks will just add to the variation and texture.
And on with the show!

Yellow paint applied, a couple of mist coats to stop the salt from being blown off, then a couple of heavier coats.


After a couple of days to settle, I took to it with a flat paint brush with the bristles cut very short. I usually use it for dry-brushing, but it worked really well for this. I went over it and knocked off the larger, easier crystals first, then had to go back and attack it much more aggressively to get the finer crystals to dislodge.


There are some really fine crystals still under the paint, but they look like rough surface or rust bubbles, so I'm going to leave them there for some textural variation.


Next up for the frame is some detail paint on the wheels and some washes and stains.

Test fitted the engine on the frame, because it feels like progress!



Finally, blew some Burnt Metal onto the exhausts.

These will get some pale pastels to add variation and texture.

Cheerio, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, March 11, 2018 - 08:01 PM UTC
Damian,
Looking forward to seeing how your salt method works. I've heard similar issues to what Richard had happen, but most seem to really like the results.

I wonder if a clearcoat before the salt would stop any of the staining that Richard experienced.

Joel
CaptainA
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Posted: Sunday, March 11, 2018 - 05:29 PM UTC
This project is turning out quite nice. Your painting techniques are, as always, superior. It looks like a real engine.

It is always god to pull out a "Short Subject" when you are in a slump. I always find it hard to work on a project that has been hiding in a box for a while. I'm glad to see you are back at it. Now if I could get back at it again...
rdt1953
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Posted: Sunday, March 11, 2018 - 03:23 PM UTC
D -

I have had problems with the salt method , particularly with dark colors. The salt leaches into the paint at times leaving white circles. I tried a clear coat over the salt first but the problem persisted. I ultimately used coarse ground pepper from a pepper mill. It does not bond as well as the salt so you need to go heavy with it as some gets knocked off. It seems not everyone experiences this so you may be ok.

Richard
AussieReg
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Posted: Sunday, March 11, 2018 - 08:22 AM UTC
A first time having a try at a new technique is always daunting, but I've been trawling threads and YouTube researching the salt-chipping method and decided to jump in last night. The frame will have a couple of days to dry out properly then on with the yellow top coat.



The way I look at it, the base will be heavily knocked around from tools and parts being dropped and left on it, and being pushed against other objects in the workshop. The upper frame not so much. Once it is cured fully I will have another look at it and possible knock some of the salt off before it gets its top coat.

As always, thoughts, comments, critiques most appreciated.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, February 24, 2018 - 08:37 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Russ, Richard, Joel, thanks for the positive feedback. I've read varying feedback on Alclad, from very positive to absolutely awful, but I can honestly say I've never had any issues. I use the most basic equipment, single action Paasche H airbrush and cheap direct drive (no tank) compressor, I just take my time and above all read the instructions and research online before I dive in.

Now I'm off to see if I can find any potential problems with oil paints and mineral turps washes on Alclad.

Cheers, D



Damian,
I used a Paasche H AB for years on end, even when I 1st joined Aeroscale I was using it, and loved it. The trick is to live within it's capabilities as it's an external air mix, and the needles sizes are weird to say the least. From seeing your work over the years, you've certainly mastered it hands down.

Joel
AussieReg
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Posted: Saturday, February 24, 2018 - 04:23 PM UTC
Russ, Richard, Joel, thanks for the positive feedback. I've read varying feedback on Alclad, from very positive to absolutely awful, but I can honestly say I've never had any issues. I use the most basic equipment, single action Paasche H airbrush and cheap direct drive (no tank) compressor, I just take my time and above all read the instructions and research online before I dive in.

Now I'm off to see if I can find any potential problems with oil paints and mineral turps washes on Alclad.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 10:04 PM UTC
Big D,
Amazing work. the engine really looks like it's metal. You just gotta love these Metalizers.

I've also used clear blue and Yellow for heat staining a few times and it does work well. Less I more. But I used Tamiya Acrylic clears really thinned out, and it looked fine. Today, I would go with the Alcad 2 clears if I had them.

Joel
rdt1953
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Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 05:19 PM UTC
D -

Aluminum looks fantastic ! I'm envious and may have to try Alclad now .

Richard