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Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
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Sopwith Camel Clerget Project
phantom_phanatic309
#372
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Posted: Tuesday, February 20, 2018 - 04:43 AM UTC
That's looking really nice Damian.
If you can get hold of it, I thoroughly recommend Humbrol's oil stain wash. It does need a little enamel thinner straight out of the bottle to work well, but it looks fantastic on an engine. It dries slightly glossy and has just the right greasy brown look you need for a vintage engine.
Jeez, I sound like an advertisement
Used it on the WNW Rumpler engine and it really surprised with me with how well it turned out.

Looking forward to seeing the final result.
AussieReg
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#007
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Tuesday, February 20, 2018 - 05:29 AM UTC
Hi Stephen.

Thanks for advice (advertorial??), I will check if I can find that product locally. I have some W&N artists oils that I was going to try mixing up into a sludge wash and experiment with as well. I've never tried it over Alclad so I'm not sure how it would react to the mineral turps etc. Time to practice on some scrap first methinks.

Cheers, D
phantom_phanatic309
#372
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Posted: Tuesday, February 20, 2018 - 06:20 AM UTC
No worries.
But yeah it might need to be sealed first. Never used Aclad so not sure how it takes washes. I did mine over vallejo acrylic aluminium. No issues with that.
I'll see if I can get some shots of the engine to show how it looks.
AussieReg
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#007
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Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 06:37 AM UTC
Alclad Airframe Aluminium thrown on, letting it cure today and might give it a final coat tonight, then some weathering.





Tamiya Red Brown acrylic on the mounting frame as a rust base ready for clear coat, salt for chipping, then a yellow top coat.



All done with my trusty old Paasche H, light coats built up slowly. I paint very slowly compared to some, but I enjoy the process and find it very satisfying to watch the colours develop and be able to stop when I think I've reached where I want to be. Easier to add a little more than to try to take it away.

Cheers, D
Cosimodo
#335
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Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 10:49 AM UTC
Hi Damian,
The Alclad looks great. A suggestion for heat discolouring is to use the Alclad transparent blue and yellow over the NMF. Its easy to control the discolouration that way. I did this a few years ago when I built a Gnome rotary for E III. Then I used AK(?) engine oil, of which in hindsight I probably used too much.


cheers
Michael
AussieReg
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#007
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Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 11:13 AM UTC
Yours looks very nice Michael, thanks for the tip as well. I was sort of headed down the path of dry brushing some burnt metal paints but hadn't considered the clears.

Cheers, D
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 11:48 AM UTC
That engine looks great, D. Your paint job comes across as "metal" nicely.

Gaz
AussieReg
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#007
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Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 12:16 PM UTC
Thanks Gary. Coming from the “master metallurgist “ that is much appreciated mate!

This one is a tad complex to try foiling.

Cheers, D
RussellE
#306
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Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 04:02 PM UTC
Looks like a real Engine D!
rdt1953
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Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 05:19 PM UTC
D -

Aluminum looks fantastic ! I'm envious and may have to try Alclad now .

Richard
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 10:04 PM UTC
Big D,
Amazing work. the engine really looks like it's metal. You just gotta love these Metalizers.

I've also used clear blue and Yellow for heat staining a few times and it does work well. Less I more. But I used Tamiya Acrylic clears really thinned out, and it looked fine. Today, I would go with the Alcad 2 clears if I had them.

Joel
AussieReg
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#007
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Posted: Saturday, February 24, 2018 - 04:23 PM UTC
Russ, Richard, Joel, thanks for the positive feedback. I've read varying feedback on Alclad, from very positive to absolutely awful, but I can honestly say I've never had any issues. I use the most basic equipment, single action Paasche H airbrush and cheap direct drive (no tank) compressor, I just take my time and above all read the instructions and research online before I dive in.

Now I'm off to see if I can find any potential problems with oil paints and mineral turps washes on Alclad.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, February 24, 2018 - 08:37 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Russ, Richard, Joel, thanks for the positive feedback. I've read varying feedback on Alclad, from very positive to absolutely awful, but I can honestly say I've never had any issues. I use the most basic equipment, single action Paasche H airbrush and cheap direct drive (no tank) compressor, I just take my time and above all read the instructions and research online before I dive in.

Now I'm off to see if I can find any potential problems with oil paints and mineral turps washes on Alclad.

Cheers, D



Damian,
I used a Paasche H AB for years on end, even when I 1st joined Aeroscale I was using it, and loved it. The trick is to live within it's capabilities as it's an external air mix, and the needles sizes are weird to say the least. From seeing your work over the years, you've certainly mastered it hands down.

Joel
AussieReg
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#007
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Posted: Sunday, March 11, 2018 - 08:22 AM UTC
A first time having a try at a new technique is always daunting, but I've been trawling threads and YouTube researching the salt-chipping method and decided to jump in last night. The frame will have a couple of days to dry out properly then on with the yellow top coat.



The way I look at it, the base will be heavily knocked around from tools and parts being dropped and left on it, and being pushed against other objects in the workshop. The upper frame not so much. Once it is cured fully I will have another look at it and possible knock some of the salt off before it gets its top coat.

As always, thoughts, comments, critiques most appreciated.

Cheers, D
rdt1953
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Posted: Sunday, March 11, 2018 - 03:23 PM UTC
D -

I have had problems with the salt method , particularly with dark colors. The salt leaches into the paint at times leaving white circles. I tried a clear coat over the salt first but the problem persisted. I ultimately used coarse ground pepper from a pepper mill. It does not bond as well as the salt so you need to go heavy with it as some gets knocked off. It seems not everyone experiences this so you may be ok.

Richard
CaptainA
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Indiana, United States
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Posted: Sunday, March 11, 2018 - 05:29 PM UTC
This project is turning out quite nice. Your painting techniques are, as always, superior. It looks like a real engine.

It is always god to pull out a "Short Subject" when you are in a slump. I always find it hard to work on a project that has been hiding in a box for a while. I'm glad to see you are back at it. Now if I could get back at it again...
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, March 11, 2018 - 08:01 PM UTC
Damian,
Looking forward to seeing how your salt method works. I've heard similar issues to what Richard had happen, but most seem to really like the results.

I wonder if a clearcoat before the salt would stop any of the staining that Richard experienced.

Joel
AussieReg
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#007
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Posted: Friday, March 16, 2018 - 07:40 PM UTC
Richard, Carl, Joel, many thanks for your comments. I have seen the "tide marks" from the salt that you are referring to, feint white stains in the flat paint surface, but to be honest I'm not concerned. This will be getting a sludge wash and any feint white marks will just add to the variation and texture.
And on with the show!

Yellow paint applied, a couple of mist coats to stop the salt from being blown off, then a couple of heavier coats.


After a couple of days to settle, I took to it with a flat paint brush with the bristles cut very short. I usually use it for dry-brushing, but it worked really well for this. I went over it and knocked off the larger, easier crystals first, then had to go back and attack it much more aggressively to get the finer crystals to dislodge.


There are some really fine crystals still under the paint, but they look like rough surface or rust bubbles, so I'm going to leave them there for some textural variation.


Next up for the frame is some detail paint on the wheels and some washes and stains.

Test fitted the engine on the frame, because it feels like progress!



Finally, blew some Burnt Metal onto the exhausts.

These will get some pale pastels to add variation and texture.

Cheerio, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, March 16, 2018 - 08:22 PM UTC
Damian,
WOW !!

the engine stand is simply spectacular Not only does the rust look realistic, but the trapped salt looks exactly like paint bubbling from rust forming below it.

Just outstanding detailing.

Joel
rdt1953
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Posted: Friday, March 16, 2018 - 11:24 PM UTC
Well done indeed D- the trapped small particles looking like rust bubbles real takes it over the top . Carry on and give us more please !

Cheers- Richard
RussellE
#306
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Sunday, March 18, 2018 - 04:39 PM UTC
Well done D!

The stand looks great!
WIggus
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Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Thursday, April 19, 2018 - 07:17 PM UTC
Hey Damian, I wanted to share this with you. I was so inspired by your engine stand that I wanted to give a go at rusting something. This is the dolly for a Tamiya A6M2 floatplane. Thanks for the inspiration.

Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, April 19, 2018 - 09:13 PM UTC
Wiggus,
Outstanding. You two have rust down to a science.
Joel
AussieReg
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#007
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Posted: Friday, April 20, 2018 - 03:59 AM UTC
Wiggus, excellent work mate, very impressive. It's a great feeling to try out a new technique and get such a good result.
I draw my inspiration from the thousands of modelers who share their experience here and on a few other forums, so I'm really happy to have passed that on!

Apologies for the lack of progress here, I've got myself hung up on the weathering and heat staining effects and been playing around with some options.
Reposting the reference image that I am using here:


To replicate the red/brown and the faint blue I have chosen to use these (another first for me on this build). I played around with some home-brewed mixtures of clears and reds and greys but nothing gave me the effect I was happy with.


Hopefully I will get a couple of hours tonight to give this a try.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, April 20, 2018 - 05:36 AM UTC
Damian,
Looking forward to your results, as heat effects have always been something I've struggled with.

BTW, finally, my next build will be my 1st car model in nearly 10 years.

Joel