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RadekZ
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Warszawa, Poland
Joined: March 12, 2013
KitMaker: 84 posts
AeroScale: 50 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 08:05 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

Hell bells Radek that just sucks! Had a similar result with Tamiya paints with my Seafire. I use universal thinners, which is a solvent based thinner and actually keys into the plastic, as the solvent will act like thin glue if applied straight to the plastic surface. And universal thinner will thin both acrylic, enamel and cellulose paints (lacquers). I get it from out local motor parts shop for a fraction of the price of Tamiya yellow cap thinner, $28 NZD will get me a 4 litre tin of it. Which has lasted me a little over 18 months so far.



Thanks for information, Chris.
From my own experience I had similar issues only if I used primers like this OneShot or AK/MiG/Vallejo. Thinner wasn't a big issue so far (or at least I cannot proove it could be ), maybe except the price .

I wonder what kind of thinner you use, I have thought about universal thinners you can usually buy in hardware stores or motor shops, but either they had a very limited usage (like "laquer only or sth") or in other case they needed high temperatures (motor paint thinners with 20-25C required to harden properly). Not that I wanted to really experiment with these ones but just as alternatives to expensive branded products.


Quoted Text


Hi Radek, well I couldn’t get the tape to lift paint of my sample, and at one point I ripped the tape and left some on the model, so I wasn’t being gentle. However, I went back to my original sample (over a year old) and I could scratch it off with my thumb nail, not so with my most recent example.
Clearly there is a variable at play which I can’t work out, but I was watching a Paul Budzik video on primers and he talked about the distance primer gets applied and whether it hits the surface wet or semi dry. None of this fixes your paint job of course, but it does make me more wary of the one shot primer.


Thanks Spud. Interesting information about "scratchy" paint - looks like adhesive characteristics of it sort of "wears off" in time.

I watched Paul's videos (I wish I had easy access to all his "dental" tools ) about priming and painting and I think this might be an issue in my case as well as I spray with 0.2mm nozzle, which means I can't use too dense paints and have to thin them well....

Damn if Mr Surfacer wasn't that smelly I would stick to that and not experiment with others... I kinda suck in experiments
Willard79
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Wellington, New Zealand
Joined: June 01, 2014
KitMaker: 181 posts
AeroScale: 172 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 06:41 PM GMT+7
Hi Radek, well I couldn’t get the tape to lift paint of my sample, and at one point I ripped the tape and left some on the model, so I wasn’t being gentle. However, I went back to my original sample (over a year old) and I could scratch it off with my thumb nail, not so with my most recent example.
Clearly there is a variable at play which I can’t work out, but I was watching a Paul Budzik video on primers and he talked about the distance primer gets applied and whether it hits the surface wet or semi dry. None of this fixes your paint job of course, but it does make me more wary of the one shot primer.
Regards.
c4willy
#305
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined: February 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1,512 posts
AeroScale: 1,361 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 05:50 PM GMT+7
Hell bells Radek that just sucks! Had a similar result with Tamiya paints with my Seafire. I use universal thinners, which is a solvent based thinner and actually keys into the plastic, as the solvent will act like thin glue if applied straight to the plastic surface. And universal thinner will thin both acrylic, enamel and cellulose paints (lacquers). I get it from out local motor parts shop for a fraction of the price of Tamiya yellow cap thinner, $28 NZD will get me a 4 litre tin of it. Which has lasted me a little over 18 months so far.

Oh no MArk! I feel your pain! I hate when parts just up and disappear. Usually preceded by the thought I could lose this if I'm not careful followed by a ping then a tink somewhere across the garage. Concrete floor but parts just disappear on it.
md72
#439
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Washington, United States
Joined: November 05, 2005
KitMaker: 3,945 posts
AeroScale: 2,625 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 03:54 PM GMT+7
This is getting to be the hardest build ever. It's not Airfix's fault. But now I managed to lose my second undercarriage part. I guess I can still build it wheels up, if I can find a stand. SO disappointing cause I really wanted to show the wingfold...
RadekZ
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Warszawa, Poland
Joined: March 12, 2013
KitMaker: 84 posts
AeroScale: 50 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 09:37 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text

Hi Radek,
I wonder if thinning the primer weakened it? How heavy were the subsequent coats?
regards



Thanks Spud, I'm curious about your results.
As for coating of primer - I went for 3 coats. I applied light ones, full coverage, with 0.2 nozzle AB. Although I have some problems with keeping my compressor at level pressure I kept it ~15-20PSi.
As said earlier I let the primer dry for several days (business duties didn't give me too much opportunity to continue with painting), so it had plenty time to dry.
I have tried OneShot several times and it seemed to be working well, however that's the first time I've tried "hard" masking (previously only with blue tack which seems to have no impact on it).
From other side I also had an incident where I primed Airfix new Hurricane kit directly from bottle. Paint started to peel off even after touching with hand.
I need to learn a little bit more how to use this one...
Willard79
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Wellington, New Zealand
Joined: June 01, 2014
KitMaker: 181 posts
AeroScale: 172 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 09:22 AM GMT+7
Hi Radek,
I got some one shot primer (black) a while ago and wasn't happy with it originally, didn't seem to sand well and so thick it needed to be thinned. That was then, since I've read a bit more, and if you can, shoot it without thinning, a .4 nozzle helps, and leave it for half a day or so and sands like tamiya or gunze primer. I've got a test model going where I've primed with 'one shot' and top coated with tamiya thinned with MLT and it's been great, but since your post I've covered it in masking tape to see if I can replicate your woes. I'll let you know how it goes.
Long story short, I wonder if thinning the primer weakened it? How heavy were the subsequent coats?
Certainly a frustrating result for you, all the best for the fix up, hope it goes well.

regards
RadekZ
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Warszawa, Poland
Joined: March 12, 2013
KitMaker: 84 posts
AeroScale: 50 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 08:00 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text

Radek, very sorry for that paint disaster!
Hope you can fix it as this is going to be a nice looking bird.

Maybe (at least what I can see) the colors (and combination) seems to be too weak and incompatible to resist the adhesives of the tape that soften them anyhow.
Anyone else got a similar problems with those color mixes?

good luck, Thomas



Hi Thomas,
thanks . For me there's definitely problem with primer. Paint seems to stick good to primer, but primer just goes off with everything above.

Like on this pic below.
Left marking - I just "scratched" the orange paint on Dutch roundel and it went off to bare plastic... just if it was not fixed to surface.
The strangest one is however in area marked to the right. There is a visible tint or faint discolouration on plastic surface just like if camo colour passed through primer or something. Very disturbing.
The mid marking shows clearly how the primer with paint ripped off surface during removal of masks...



I don't know which way I'll follow to fix that.
From one side as I'm not going to use any masking anymore (decals only) I can try to remove only the paint in "affected" area by sanding it down with fine sandpaper and then repaint the area but without OneShot primer, just the Tamiya's grey paint as primer.
Drawback here is that it will probably leave differences in paint shades as I won't be able to recreate mixing proportions of paints I mentioned in earlier post.
The other option which I don't want to follow would be to completely remove the paint and do all painting from scratch.
Drawback is that it takes time and may cause some other damage to plastic or joints and also it may cause I'll loose my mojo again

Nevertheless it seems I once again overcomplicated the build. If I decided to go for decals stright away I would be already publishing my final pics
goodn8
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Berlin, Germany
Joined: October 12, 2008
KitMaker: 538 posts
AeroScale: 524 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 06:50 AM GMT+7
Radek, very sorry for that paint disaster!
Hope you can fix it as this is going to be a nice looking bird.

Maybe (at least what I can see) the colors (and combination) seems to be too weak and incompatible to resist the adhesives of the tape that soften them anyhow.
Anyone else got a similar problems with those color mixes?

good luck, Thomas
RadekZ
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Warszawa, Poland
Joined: March 12, 2013
KitMaker: 84 posts
AeroScale: 50 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 05:50 AM GMT+7
Hi,

Progress update on Dutch Buffalo.

As model was ready to paint I covered it with OneShot primer from Ammo thinned a little bit with MENG (AK ) thinner.
Then continued with reference colours - silver (used Vallejo Metal Color for that). Upper camo was made with Tamiya's XF-49 Khaki & XF-62 Olive Drab with few drops of XF-55 Deck Tan to lighten the colour.
Then I prepared and painted Dutch insignia (with help of Montex Maxi Masks & Tamiya masking tape). All looked good:





Unfortunately the disaster stroke when I started removing mask... The paints peeled off to the bare plastic.
I don't know what happened... the plastic was double cleaned (washed with soapy water and later cleaned with isoprophyl alcohol just before painting), all layers were left to dry really hard (e.g. primer was left >5 days before I had time to spray colours)... Yet still full patches of primer with paint went off like the didn't stick at all to surface:




Well... I have to now remove paint around peeled off areas and paint again...
No more masking though this time. I will use kit's decals instead. Pity, but unfortunately some of the masks were damaged in removal process (I had to trim them, so they broke easily even with little force applied).

Cheers,
Radek
Pave-Hawk
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Western Australia, Australia
Joined: May 05, 2006
KitMaker: 760 posts
AeroScale: 167 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 11, 2018 - 04:30 PM GMT+7
While waiting for paint to dry I got a bit or work done on my N1K floatplane version.





The kit came with a metal weight for the float to help avoid being a taildragger


RhinoSpit
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Bas-Rhin, France
Joined: September 22, 2016
KitMaker: 89 posts
AeroScale: 78 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 10, 2018 - 10:50 AM GMT+7
yes it is
md72
#439
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Washington, United States
Joined: November 05, 2005
KitMaker: 3,945 posts
AeroScale: 2,625 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 10, 2018 - 09:46 AM GMT+7
Franck, is that the Eduard Hellcat? Looks kinda familiar, especially the two piece rear window.
RhinoSpit
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Bas-Rhin, France
Joined: September 22, 2016
KitMaker: 89 posts
AeroScale: 78 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 10, 2018 - 09:42 AM GMT+7
Some advance on my british hellcat:











PasiAhopelto
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: October 01, 2016
KitMaker: 140 posts
AeroScale: 82 posts
Posted: Friday, February 09, 2018 - 07:39 PM GMT+7
Have to start putting some serious effort to this. Not many weeks remaining.



It looks small in the picture, but painting will take time simply because of the large surface area.
Pave-Hawk
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Western Australia, Australia
Joined: May 05, 2006
KitMaker: 760 posts
AeroScale: 167 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 08, 2018 - 07:46 PM GMT+7
My N1K1Ja is moving along. It's gloss coats all round coming up for my current in progress builds


bomber14
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 02, 2015
KitMaker: 202 posts
AeroScale: 184 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 08, 2018 - 08:20 AM GMT+7
matt please share your new technique on the exhaust when you get a chance. they look outstanding. great weathering and chipping on the corsair too.

joe
MichaelSatin
Staff MemberCampaigns Administrator
AEROSCALE
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 2,907 posts
AeroScale: 2,078 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 08, 2018 - 07:36 AM GMT+7
Well done, Ken! Nice to see a figure for a change.

Michael
69mudbone
_VISITCOMMUNITY
California, United States
Joined: April 26, 2016
KitMaker: 328 posts
AeroScale: 25 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 08, 2018 - 06:21 AM GMT+7
Hi Guys, calling this one complete.1/16 Navy pilot WWII on flight deck. Comments welcomed.






BoiseBlade
#0
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Idaho, United States
Joined: February 28, 2014
KitMaker: 341 posts
AeroScale: 249 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 06, 2018 - 03:07 PM GMT+7
Here is the interiors for the Zero and the Kate.
I added scratch seatbelts and some other bits.



md72
#439
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Washington, United States
Joined: November 05, 2005
KitMaker: 3,945 posts
AeroScale: 2,625 posts
Posted: Friday, February 02, 2018 - 06:47 PM GMT+7
Well Kudos to Airfix, they charged me L3 for the part and then spent L2.95 on Royal Mail getting it to me.

Not sure there's 5 pence worth of part there, but I'm back on line!
BoiseBlade
#0
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Idaho, United States
Joined: February 28, 2014
KitMaker: 341 posts
AeroScale: 249 posts
Posted: Friday, February 02, 2018 - 03:40 PM GMT+7
Chris,

Really nice Spit!!!
Like the weather and it looks great.


I wasn't going to join this build but my son came back from a business trip to Nagoya Japan and picked up some new decals for me. (Must have raised him right somewhere along the road )

I will be building the Zero out of this set.
I might do the Kate as well...But focus will be on the Zero.

c4willy
#305
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined: February 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1,512 posts
AeroScale: 1,361 posts
Posted: Friday, February 02, 2018 - 06:56 AM GMT+7
I'm done with the Seafire guys just need to take some pics for the gallery and we'll be finished.

IMG_2017 by Chris WIlson, on Flickr

IMG_2018 by Chris WIlson, on Flickr

IMG_2019 by Chris WIlson, on Flickr

IMG_2022 by Chris WIlson, on Flickr
Scrodes
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 22, 2012
KitMaker: 738 posts
AeroScale: 732 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 31, 2018 - 01:15 PM GMT+7
In a desperate attempt to keep this thread going....


So close to the finish now.

Long story short - the Brassin engine just isn't going to work. Don't get me started

That means I had to backtrack and detail the Tamiya engine up a little bit. I was building it alongside the Brassin engine so I could use it basically as a mule. It's passable now.


Here are the exhausts - brand new technique that I'm trying out - and yes, I see the spots that I need to touch up.





Ignore the unweathered engine - the front is plenty dirty.




Sooooooooooo clooooose. Mainly I'm waiting on a shipment from Spruebrothers.




Markings painted using Mal's aptly named Miracle Masks


goodn8
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Berlin, Germany
Joined: October 12, 2008
KitMaker: 538 posts
AeroScale: 524 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 30, 2018 - 07:04 AM GMT+7
Radek, very well done on the canopy - congrats!

John, despite all of your issues it looks nice and you really overcome them.



Got the wing halves of my Zero together (-yeah). No issues here.
The details on the surface and gear wells are quite nice for the age of this Tamiya kit. Think I'll move on OOB.
But dry fitting is promising some extra work ...








Thomas
Scrodes
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 22, 2012
KitMaker: 738 posts
AeroScale: 732 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 28, 2018 - 12:58 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

HI Radek,

I use 70% isopropyl alcohol to remove Tamiya paints all the time.




Same here - I actually just did this on the Corsair I'm building for this corsair because trial and error on a new technique left the paint built up way thicker than I could accept (more error than trial) and it took about 6-8 layers of paint off perfectly and the surface detail was completely unharmed, albeit still a little filled with paint - nothing a toothpick couldn't cure.