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Cold War (1950-1974)
Discuss the aircraft modeling subjects during the Cold War period.
Hosted by Tim Hatton
Dassault Mirage III/5BA Heller 1/72
Joel_W
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New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 8,843 posts
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Posted: Monday, March 05, 2018 - 11:20 PM UTC
Thomas,
Very nice effort on the pitot tube. Nothing wrong with scratching out pieces rather then buying them. I try to do the same whenever I can.

Joel
goodn8
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Berlin, Germany
Joined: October 12, 2008
KitMaker: 613 posts
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Posted: Monday, March 05, 2018 - 10:45 PM UTC
Paul, Joel and Oliver,
thank you very much guys for your support !


Couldn't get much far as I wanted due to a flu, so here's just a small update.
Meanwhile I changed my mind about the pitot tube
as I didn't like either the kits part nor a only streched
piece of sprue. The original has a unique shape, so I looked
for some stronger sprue and sculpted/sanded it.
Don`t want to spend money for a/m parts.


Also primed the upper surface, polished a bit and gave it a first modulated layer of color (tan/sand - Vallejo).
To save time but give a first modulation I used Vallejo's dark and light primer as the base with no need of after-preshade.


















Thanks, Thomas
Antilles
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Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany
Joined: March 22, 2015
KitMaker: 536 posts
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Posted: Saturday, February 24, 2018 - 01:49 AM UTC
Thomas: Great job on solving the problem!

Oliver
Joel_W
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New York, United States
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Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 10:11 PM UTC
Thomas,
Very nicely done.
Joel
KelticKnot
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Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: May 11, 2015
KitMaker: 768 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, February 21, 2018 - 09:04 PM UTC
A perfectly good fix Thomas, your Mirage is looking great!
goodn8
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Berlin, Germany
Joined: October 12, 2008
KitMaker: 613 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, February 20, 2018 - 10:48 PM UTC
Decided to stay wih the Supersonics and went the easiest way
with less trouble.
Just cutted off the stick out part about 3mm so it can still firmly follow the wing's shape.
A bit of sanding and reshaping the edge before a color touch up.
Once glued no one ever will spot this roughly done area on the upper surface again.

And there's still space between the tanks and the maximum lowered ( ) flaps.










Now have to move on with the masking ...

See you back, Thomas
goodn8
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Berlin, Germany
Joined: October 12, 2008
KitMaker: 613 posts
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Posted: Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 12:16 AM UTC
Joel,
thanks for your support! Your tip sounds reasonable but I'm yet not sure what to do. Cutting, leave them off, go with the big tanks???

About the quality control you really point it out. And as you discovered yourself with those wrong decal colors on your Hellcat it's not only a kit's engeneering ...

So still after decades in developing kits, even the top companies are unable to take enough care to satisfy the customers for their money.

Thomas
Joel_W
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New York, United States
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Posted: Friday, February 16, 2018 - 10:51 PM UTC
Thomas,
I've seen similar pylon issues like that before, and there just isn't any rational excuse a manufacture can offer to justify such poor engineering. There is no way that replicates the real aircraft, and it further points out that there is next to no Quality Control or God forbid, building the kit straight out of the box looking for errors like this.

The only solution I can see to cut back on the Pylon overall length so it fits correctly, then reshape it. Unfortunately, that does require re-painting and re-weathering.

Joel
goodn8
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Berlin, Germany
Joined: October 12, 2008
KitMaker: 613 posts
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Posted: Friday, February 16, 2018 - 08:01 PM UTC
Hi folks!

Have to admit that I missed my aim in getting quickly foreward with the upper surface ...

Just before starting I did some research (again) and was really confused about the camo. The patterns differ much from unit to unit and even more from the early 80s onwards. Seems they didn't used the same references while painting. And the pale grey underside was only done earlier, later on all was covered with the camo color.

... so more research was needed as I had a look to the tanks.
Mentioned before, I'd like to go with the supersonic tanks - they were commonly rough painted and had not those wavy look like the big ones.
But the colors should be separated for my early bird, so I go my own way to represent a random split ...

Talking about the kits tanks
Should have done a serious dry fit before - the issue of the kit's engeneering you can see below. Anyone can point it out?
Wonder why I never read about it in any builds/reviews before, so thats why I didn't took care of it
It's a bigger issue when the flaps are lowered but even in straight position it is strange since the pylon went over the flap.
Anyhow, have to manage this!

After all it was quite time consuming and the progress is


Btw, before glueing the front canopy I added a small clear piece as a gunsight.


















Hope to move on soon, thanks for looking

Thomas
goodn8
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Berlin, Germany
Joined: October 12, 2008
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Posted: Friday, February 16, 2018 - 08:00 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I'm looking forward to you starting the top surface camo, you nailed those lower surfaces for sure!

Magnus



Magnus, thank you very much for your kind comment!
Sorry for not showing any progress on the top side though I wasn't lazy on my build - please see my next post, thats why.

Thomas
goodn8
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Berlin, Germany
Joined: October 12, 2008
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Posted: Friday, February 16, 2018 - 07:58 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I agree with Joel about the hand photo! Suddenly the scale becomes obvious and makes your efforts all the more impressive.



Paul, thanks a lot for stopping by and the compliment.
Don't think I'll do this amount on every 72-scale kit in the near future

Thomas
magnusf
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Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: May 02, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, February 01, 2018 - 03:21 PM UTC
I'm looking forward to you starting the top surface camo, you nailed those lower surfaces for sure!



Magnus
KelticKnot
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Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: May 11, 2015
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Posted: Thursday, February 01, 2018 - 03:06 PM UTC
I agree with Joel about the hand photo! Suddenly the scale becomes obvious and makes your efforts all the more impressive.
goodn8
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Berlin, Germany
Joined: October 12, 2008
KitMaker: 613 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, January 31, 2018 - 11:05 PM UTC
Joel, very kind words indeed!
I really appreciate your sidestep from your own (not always silky) road and resting a few minutes here.
It' more than motivating.

As for the colors I think I didn't really justice the "lighten up the paint in scale-ratio"-rules ...
The greenish looked different when I mixed and tried it and is even more intense on the pics. Maybe I manage to tone it down.
But you see the size - imagine brush work inside ...

Thomas
Joel_W
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New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, January 30, 2018 - 03:39 AM UTC
Thomas,
Even though I've been along for the ride since the beginning, and knew that your build is in 1/72 scale, seeing it laying in the palm of your hand is the 1st time that I actually realized just how small the Mirage III is. And then to see all that added detail is even more amazing.

Your gray paint and weathering really turned out quite well. Not overly done by any means. Just enough so that one gets the sense of a maintained operational aircraft. Your main wheel wells really closely match up to the picture that you posted, both in detail, colors, and weathering. Impressive to say the least.

Looking forward to your next update.

Joel
goodn8
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Berlin, Germany
Joined: October 12, 2008
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Posted: Monday, January 29, 2018 - 10:33 PM UTC
Welcome again


While taking the paints out I worked on the gear struts.
The clear parts provide the lights for the front wheel and first I applied chrome-silver from the back than flat black around.

The molding of all the struts is very basic. Added 2 break lines to each of the main ones.













... and as I mentioned before, the wheel wells...

Since the front well was mainly left with a silver paint over all (what web-pics show), the other ones were inboards often uneven painted with some primer at the base and the walls in ???colors (see pics) while the outboard remains silver/alu/nmf










So I gave it a try.
Wasn't sure if I can nearly match it but I'll leave it now as it looks since paint/wash/drybrush/claning/touch-ups in those areas isn't really fun.



























Now I think it's time to turn it round and move on there...


Thanks for looking, Thomas
goodn8
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Berlin, Germany
Joined: October 12, 2008
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Posted: Thursday, January 25, 2018 - 10:55 PM UTC
Hi again!

Little more progress.
Decided to work through the underside first before moving on to the top.
Glossy clear coated (tried out "Winsor & Newton" Acrylics coat, yellow cap; mixed with Vallejo a/b thinner) worked fine and I did some light washing and varying (Flory`s gray and a own mixture). Applied the 2 decals (Remember? 1973...!)that were a bit out of size but to late to correct. Fragile but snuggling down with some help.









Finally covered with satin gloss (again "W&N")than removed the tape from the wells and masked them from the outer lines.
All covered up and some coats of a primary silver shine.
Now I have to modify the wells color partially and bring the details more out.












btw: the rest of the paint I used as a first coat for the Zero-Engine for the PTO cpgn. ...







Didn't want to do too much weathering nor a factory fresh a/c.
Surely you can find much more used/abused units ...





The latest from today in natural daylight.










Appreciate your stopping by, Thomas
goodn8
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Berlin, Germany
Joined: October 12, 2008
KitMaker: 613 posts
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Posted: Thursday, January 25, 2018 - 10:52 PM UTC
Joel, thank you so much for your kind words!
That means much to me and your judging is a real compliment

Whenever I follow your builds I'm always impressed about your sense and skill for painting and your good eye for bringing the colors to life finally.

Since I made less than 10 builds (and 4 hangar queens) after returning to scale modelling Im happy so far.
Nevertheless I have to improve my skills and learning curve in many ways.

Thomas
Joel_W
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New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 8,843 posts
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Posted: Monday, January 15, 2018 - 12:03 AM UTC
Thomas,
I'm just lovin' your shading and fading paint technique. Now that's thinking out of the box and it not only works, it looks great.

I'm a firm believer in a varied, non-pattern form of pre-shading where the end result that shows through the color coats looks random but realistic due whatever external factors would come into play. And you've achieved that.

As you've seen, many light coats works so much better then a few heavier coats.

Looking forward to your top color coats.

Joel
goodn8
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Berlin, Germany
Joined: October 12, 2008
KitMaker: 613 posts
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Posted: Sunday, January 14, 2018 - 10:59 PM UTC
Hi there!

A little more progress on the paint side.
Started with the underside and while cleaning it up I decided to leave some color as preshade residues.
Roughly covered up the wells that will be done later on to avoid too much color overlay on the tiny details inside.
Since I'll go for the 5BA most of the pics (depending on the exposure) showing a range from very light gray to nearly white.
My first a/b shots look too greyish to me, so I went for more lightening up with 1:1 diluted white coats (Revell acrylics - running quite smooth). After all it turns out ok to me.














Thanks for interest, Thomas
goodn8
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Berlin, Germany
Joined: October 12, 2008
KitMaker: 613 posts
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Posted: Sunday, January 14, 2018 - 10:59 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Thomas,
The primer coat really helps to tie it all together. Those wells really do look good.

Joel



Thanks a lot, Joel!
And indeed a quick primer session on scratched parts is very helpful for a better overview although you can't really correct or add/remove something in that scale.
Thomas
Joel_W
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New York, United States
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Posted: Monday, January 08, 2018 - 10:38 PM UTC
Thomas,
The primer coat really helps to tie it all together. Those wells really do look good.

Joel
goodn8
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Berlin, Germany
Joined: October 12, 2008
KitMaker: 613 posts
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Posted: Sunday, January 07, 2018 - 11:19 PM UTC
Joel, maybe some details are out of of scale and not matching the real a/c but I'm quite happy about the outcome.

Before moving on I gave all wheel bays a quick (with one of my cheaper tools - so it's a bit sparkling) a/b-shots with black primer/flat white acrylic to see how the depth aspect works.









Thomas
Joel_W
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New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
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Posted: Saturday, January 06, 2018 - 07:31 AM UTC
Thomas,
That's really amazing detail even before one considers that fact that this is 1/72 scale.
Joel
goodn8
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Berlin, Germany
Joined: October 12, 2008
KitMaker: 613 posts
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Posted: Saturday, January 06, 2018 - 12:04 AM UTC
Paul, thank you for stopping by and your kind words!

While the process I sometimes wonder myself why the f*** I'm doing this in that scale - maybe practising the hard way first makes it easier for the coming builds in bigger scale.
You should definetely try out sprues on your Dakota for detailing although your scratch skills are already great.

Thomas