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World War II: USA
Aircraft of the United States in WWII.
Hosted by Rowan Baylis
B-24H Libra 1/48 Scale
KPHB17FE
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Illinois, United States
Joined: January 12, 2015
KitMaker: 273 posts
AeroScale: 273 posts
Posted: Friday, September 01, 2017 - 12:29 AM UTC
Nope, didn't work. Loaded their extension, rebooted, no luck. Oh well...
thathaway3
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Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
KitMaker: 1,575 posts
AeroScale: 78 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 31, 2017 - 11:18 PM UTC
Gino Quintiliani (Heavy Arty) a long time frequent poster on the Armorama site found this work around. If you go to this site, and load the appropriate add on for either Chrome or Firefox, it allows the photos to display.

Missing Lynx
KPHB17FE
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Illinois, United States
Joined: January 12, 2015
KitMaker: 273 posts
AeroScale: 273 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 31, 2017 - 11:04 PM UTC
Glad to help. I can't see your photobucket photos though. I like to see your work.
thathaway3
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Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
KitMaker: 1,575 posts
AeroScale: 78 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 31, 2017 - 08:43 PM UTC
These are a great help! What's funny is that in the case of the tail skid, I essentially designed a mechanism on my own which would fit inside the space and function to achieve both a stowed and deployed position, and wound up coming up with a very similar design on my own, but with two critical differences. I simply ignored the hydraulic activating mechanism, and because I didn't consider "over rotating" the skid between the stowed and deployed positions (third figure), I had to locate the upper pivot point in a different spot. It's clear looking at these drawings how this design is the right solution because the riveted support bracket for the hydraulic activation piston also functions as a structural stop to help absorb any impact loading when the skid hits the ground.




To completely duplicate this design would involve redoing both the folding pieces in the strut, and adding two more sets of hinges plus getting the extended/collapsed length dimensions on the cylinder just right, so I think I'll stay with what I have.

The picture of the door is VERY useful! I did find another photo showing the attachment on the right side of the fuselage and also came up with something very close. What I missed and will be able to add, is an inside panel to the door with a walkway and grab handle.




I'm thinking that perhaps the circular hole was for a clear viewing window? I also notice that the kit has the circular opening at the forward end of the hatch rather than at the aft end. I should be able to correct that.

Thanks again for the photos!!
KPHB17FE
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Illinois, United States
Joined: January 12, 2015
KitMaker: 273 posts
AeroScale: 273 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 31, 2017 - 03:15 AM UTC
Here are a couple of items you were looking for. First is the entry hatch. I found this photo on a page that had a number of B-24 bits and pieces. Obviously removed from a wreck. It hinges on the right side of the airplane:



Don't know if these will answer your questions about the tail skid but here is an illustration from the maintenance manual and one from the parts manual. The one from the MM shows the early type which was just a rubber bumper but this was replaced with shock absorber later.





thathaway3
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Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
KitMaker: 1,575 posts
AeroScale: 78 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 30, 2017 - 09:24 PM UTC
It turns out that one of the major posters on the Armorama site discovered a very nice work around which totally solves the problem of PB photos not appearing or being able to be posted. I haven't been able to figure out how to post a link to Gino's post on the Armor Forum (if someone else knows how to do that please feel free), but it turns out that all you need to do is go to website (assuming you use Firefox or Chrome as your browser) and click on a link which activates an add on to your browser, and just like that, your old photos now appear again and you can add new ones as well!

Removed by original poster on 08/31/17 - 16:11:58 (GMT).
Removed by original poster on 08/31/17 - 16:09:33 (GMT).
Removed by original poster on 07/14/17 - 18:48:48 (GMT).
Removed by original poster on 07/14/17 - 18:46:35 (GMT).
thathaway3
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Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
KitMaker: 1,575 posts
AeroScale: 78 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 06, 2017 - 09:05 PM UTC
Yeah, but will they change their policy? I wonder how much of a downside there is for them? They certainly don't "lose" anything if I cancel my account, since they get no revenue from me (unless they sell ads, which I've not noticed, so that shows how effective that'd be!). So if 99% of the people with free accounts cancel and 1% pay the $399 per year, they're money ahead.

No such thing as a free lunch, even with the internet!
jjcadenhead
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Florida, United States
Joined: November 02, 2010
KitMaker: 32 posts
AeroScale: 3 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 06, 2017 - 12:03 AM UTC
The media is starting to report the change that Photobucket has made. I'm sure Photobucket will start to feel the pressure soon.
thathaway3
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Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
KitMaker: 1,575 posts
AeroScale: 78 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 05, 2017 - 08:52 PM UTC
Much better. Now the question is can you go back to previous posts and replace the old links with new ones, or perhaps even more to the point is it worth the time?

I highly doubt that I'll be interested in going back and doing that, as there are simply too many posts and images to correct.

So we'll just all be reminded that PB pulled the rug out from under our feet.
sinistervampire319
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California, United States
Joined: May 07, 2009
KitMaker: 170 posts
AeroScale: 63 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 05, 2017 - 07:08 AM UTC
Try Flickr.
thathaway3
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Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
KitMaker: 1,575 posts
AeroScale: 78 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 05, 2017 - 05:59 AM UTC
I tried uploading some of the images to Imagur and it seems to be very difficult to arrange the images or identify them by file number.
Scrodes
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 22, 2012
KitMaker: 771 posts
AeroScale: 763 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 04, 2017 - 10:40 PM UTC
imgur.com is the way to go.
thathaway3
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
KitMaker: 1,575 posts
AeroScale: 78 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 04, 2017 - 07:05 PM UTC
Well it appears as if Photo Bucket has eliminated the ability to post pictures to a 3rd Party site unless you pay $400 dollars PER year.

Not gonna happen.

At this point I haven't decided on my next step.
thathaway3
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Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
KitMaker: 1,575 posts
AeroScale: 78 posts
Posted: Monday, June 05, 2017 - 01:49 AM UTC
Does anybody have some decent photos of the rear crew exterior entry hatch and the retracting tail skid?

Since I'm using the Eduard Interior floor for the waist gunner's compartment, there is now nothing to attach the tails skid to, and quite frankly what the kit provides as an attachment method leaves a bit to be desired.

I've got a rough idea of how to modify the skid so that it will attach better, but I have not been able to determine how the hatch is attached/secured. Is it hinged and if so where?
thathaway3
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Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
KitMaker: 1,575 posts
AeroScale: 78 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 25, 2017 - 10:09 PM UTC
Thanks, that's very helpful. The most difficult and tedious part seems to be all the ribbing/spar structure on the inside. Given that the flaps are generally up while on the ground, what I may do is cut the flaps out to separate them from the wing, but then "re-install" them in the up position. That way hopefully they'll "look" better than just being molded in.

Maybe!
KPHB17FE
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Illinois, United States
Joined: January 12, 2015
KitMaker: 273 posts
AeroScale: 273 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 25, 2017 - 09:58 PM UTC
The B-24 had what were known as Fowler flaps. They travel aft as the extend. Not something for the weak of heart. And flaps are generally up on the ground. But if you want to try:

thathaway3
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Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
KitMaker: 1,575 posts
AeroScale: 78 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 25, 2017 - 06:09 AM UTC
Update time. I decided to add the wiring for the spark plugs to the engines. Two per cylinder. Fourteen cylinders per engine. Four engines.

And of course the length of the wire is different for the front plug for each cylinder than the one that goes to the back, and of course the two lengths for the front bank of cylinders is different from the rear bank of cylinders.

Anyway the first photo shows MOST of the wires laid out for THREE engines. I had already done one when I decided that fabricating all the pieces first and then doing all the assembly was more efficient. (You'd think that after spending 30 years as an automobile design engineer, I'd have remembered that!)

So I did the bottom front cylinder for the remaining three engines first since it was different, and then laid out all the rest.


And here are all four engines complete.


So here's a question for the group:

Has anybody attempted to separate the main flaps from the wings? They are molded into the wings and this results in a significant part of the upper surface of the flaps to be basically non-existent as it is "hidden" inside the wing structure when the flaps are up. The ailerons don't seem to be TOO hard at least after a preliminary look, although the trim tabs could be "interesting".

Any good photos or suggestions?
rochaped
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Lisboa, Portugal
Joined: August 27, 2010
KitMaker: 658 posts
AeroScale: 649 posts
Posted: Monday, May 01, 2017 - 05:12 AM UTC
Tom,

Splendid work so far. Your detailing goal is certainly very high but so far the results are mind blowing...those turrets are true gems, seem like 1/32 work.

Keep it up
Cheers
Pedro
thathaway3
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Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
KitMaker: 1,575 posts
AeroScale: 78 posts
Posted: Monday, May 01, 2017 - 03:49 AM UTC
Here's the latest update on the engines. The first shot shows the engine with the additional 7 cylinders added:

The next one shows the engine partially detailed:

And this last shot shows the engine fully detailed. (Only three more to go! )


And here are the "before and after" of the upper and lower wing sections showing the modifications which have to be made to accommodate the aftermarket engines as well as the wheel well update set:




And finally a before and after of the fuselage side to show the modification to accommodate the enclosed waist gun window, and the removal of the wind block forward of the open window:
thathaway3
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
KitMaker: 1,575 posts
AeroScale: 78 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 23, 2017 - 02:15 AM UTC
I finally finished the Sperry Ball Turret. After a test install of my original scratch build, I realized that the shaft mechanism was too long and allowed for too much drop from the stowed to deployed or lowered positions, so I had to rebuild the shaft to correct it. Much better now.





While I'm waiting to figure out what color to paint the interior and also to figure out the sequence in final assembly, I thought I'd start work on the Vector Resin engines. They are really beautiful, but I realized that if I used them as is, the props wouldn't turn as the prop shaft is molded in as part of the entire assembly. So I decided to modify them so the props would turn. There IS an easier way to do this, that is simply drill a hole through the center of the assembly and use a styrene rod with a cap on the back to hold it in place, but the original prop shafts are so well done (they have SPLINES for goodness sake!), so I devised a way to modify them so the props would turn and still keep the original prop shaft. Even though that will be buried inside the props when I'm done. Can't help myself. So here's what I did (times 4):

Here's a shot of the engine as is (haven't added the front 7 cylinders yet):

First step is to use a jeweler's coping saw and cut off the front attachment plate and prop shaft:




Next is one of the hardest parts. Using the very tip of the Exacto knife cut out the prop shaft from the mounting cover:

Next drill out the back end of the prop shaft so that you can inset a small rod which will help mount through what will be the cap into the rod which will be used as the full shaft:




Next, after smoothing the recently cut front surface of the engine, start a small hole in the center. If you HAVE a drill press, that will help, but I just kept an eye to make sure it stayed "square" as I drilled. I also started a second hole in the back to minimize any error.



After you've finished the small pilot hole, use a couple of increasingly larger drill bits until the hole is large enough so your new shaft will spin.

The next step is to create a new cover plate to help hold in the new shaft:





The next step requires a bit of patience. After you've put the back end of the shaft on to the larger cap and original prop shaft, drill out the front of the engine to the LARGER diameter of the "cap" but ONLY as deep as the THICKNESS of the cap. This allows the shaft to slip all the way through the hole you drilled but only until the larger cap hits the bottom of the larger hole and also allows the cap to spin and sit JUST BELOW the front surface of the engine. The parts should look like this:

After you drop the new shaft in, carefully glue the new cover plate to ONLY the front of the engine so the new shaft still spins:

And then finally take the original cover which you cut off and glue it over the scratch built cover:



Lots of work, but I know I'll be glad to have props that spin.
thathaway3
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Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
KitMaker: 1,575 posts
AeroScale: 78 posts
Posted: Monday, April 17, 2017 - 08:25 PM UTC
OK, time for some questions.

First of all, what color would be the most appropriate for the interior of a Ford built B-24H, which from what I can gather would have been built prior to April 1944 when Willow Run began producing B-24J's.

And second, what is the preferred sequence for painting and assembling. I'm thinking right now that I'll paint the interior, and leave the outside unpainted. Next I'll do all of the interior detailing.

So at that point, do I close up the fuselage mask over any installed glass (that which needs to be put in from the INSIDE) as well as openings, and then paint the outside?

What about the nose and tail turrets which seem to be BEST installed into a half of the fuselage and then held in place by putting the two fuselage halves together. Do you assemble, paint and then pry the halves apart slightly to insert the turrets?

Any advice from someone who's had success (or even failure)