I use artist acrylics from the tube, and have been learning how to improve with them over the last six months. Without specifically trying, I've learned that using Future to thin the paint instead of water makes it much more durable.

If I want my paint thinner than I can get it with Future alone, I add a home made flow enhancer which is 1/2 water, 1/2 glass cleaner (like windex) and a few drops of glycerine. I've read a liquid dish soap can be used instead of glycerine.

I prime with Future. Then paint in thin coats until I reach the desired opacity. This finish is resistant to stiff nylon bristled brush and toothpicks. It's only real enemy is solvents. Chipping is effected with a damp paper towel. But I still mask as gently as possible, pre-sticking the tape to skin, or clothing.

When tou remove the mask, peeling the tape perpendicular to the surface increases your chances of lifting paint. If instead you slowly peel your tape parallel to your painted surface you significantly reduce the risk of lifting your paint.

I mask over aluminum foil. Aluminum foil is less gripping of paint than plastic. Lifting the tape perpendicularly can raise paint from the foil, or foil from the surface of the model. Peeling the mask away parallel to the painted, foiled surface solved the problem of both foil and paint lifting.

Best wishes,

Gary

I like acrylic paints for their ease of cleanup and I use exclusively acrylic paints. Model Master Acryl has a nice range and is easily available in the US but it does peel off like crazy. I like to use Vallejo, both Model Color and Model Air, they don not peel. Like other have mentioned, I miss Polly Scale ans Gunze Aqueous paints. I like Tamiya but they don't offer a wide military range of colors. I am interested in the new Hataka paints, but not tries them yet. I like the way they package different sets of colors.

There is a lot easier way to work with tube acrylic paints. Get your self a bottle of Goldens airbrush medium. I bought a 16 oz./473 mil bottle for under $10.00 its made just for the purpose need plus its an acrylic extender and does not thin out or "stretch" the ability of the paint to bond. It also has a built in leveler and drying retarder. I have been working with arts and craft acrylics the selection of colors puts any model paint company to shame you get 4 times as much paint for 1/4 the price and you can mix as much or as little as you need.
Add a bottle of acrylic Glaze and you can go satin or high gloss with a few drops. Once you go arts and craft you'll never go back......

Hi Gary and Flypaper

What you're describing sounds really interesting - and the perfect subject for a "How To" Feature article. Remember, a picture's worth a thousand words - and this is a visual medium.

@ Flypaper - as with any pigments, the world's your oyster - but how you go about accurate colour matching to military standards from basic craft paints is worth an article in itself, because it could open up a world of possibilities for many modellers.

Get writing, both of you.

All the best

Rowan

I try me too to with Acrilyc's but i am a Humbrol Enamel addicted!!...But but but those jars,for me Humbrol is the best paint in the worse jar ever!!... ...

Then one day after the last... ... i buy 100 of those jar in glass with plastic seal like MM paits....heaven!!!!!..... ...big job change jars but hoooooooyeah!!....

[quote]


Now that is a good idea

[quote]


Thaks...i paid 0.50 AU$ a jar this make for me the Humbrol stiil cheaper than MM and with the jars a lot easier tu stir, clean ecc!