Hi all I'm looking for a little advice regarding resin parts.

I have never used resin parts in the past as, when I last built models I had never even heard of resin parts but I now have several kits in the "to do" pile which include resin parts or resin figures.

So the questions are as follows:

How best do you remove the parts from the blocks of resin they are cast on? (I don't own a razor saw so is it possible to get by without one?)

What glue is best to use? Is Cyanoacrylate suitable or is there a better/preferable option?

Thanks in advance

Excellent questions! I've been having difficulties with those two issues myself. Looking forward to hearing from the experts. Fellas?

It's very advisable to use a razor saw. (Once you get one you'll wonder how you ever got along without it.) Resin is brittle and does not react well to hobby knives, especially when the pour stubs are large.

CA is a good glue for resin, as is epoxy. The advantage of epoxy is the longer working time; you can position parts and make sure they go where they're supposed to. The disadvantage is that you need to hold the part in position until the glue sets. Very small detail parts may be held in position with paint, especially if they're not going to be under any kind of stress. Clear enamel is a good choice for this. Once again, make certain to hold the part in place until the paint is set to prevent it from slipping out of position.

Hi Martyn,

Working with resin is very simple, treat it for the most part like normal plastic but when sanding wear a face mask as the dust can be dangerous to health depending on the type of resin.

To remove the part from a casting block use a razor saw or whittle with a knife (takes a lot longer and makes a mess also hunts your fingers from the pressure you need to apply). Razor saws are available from most good UK based model shops or further a field if you wish.

You will need to glue with either a Cyno (superglue) or epoxy glue make sure the parts are washed first, also if the part is load bearing you may want to pin it to provide extra strength at the join.

If a resin part is bent you can straighten it by placing in hot but not boiling water and it should return to shape, remove it and clamp it to keep its correct shape while it cools.

Have fun with the resin but make sure you protect your health.

Jessica,
I have an ancient X-Acto saw (No. 35) in my tool kit but it seems a bit course — maybe? What razor saw would you recommend (size & tooth-count)?

Thanks,
—mike

The X-acto razor saws work just fine. I use the Zona saw, which can be purchased online for just under 10 bucks.


RB Productions also has a selection of great saws that fit into a No.11 knife handle. Check them out here

Martyn----When you go to sand resin, it helps to wet-sand. That will cut down on the particles flying around your work bench. Wear a mask, of course, but wet sanding will reduce the amount of residual particles you have flying around your work space.

Regards,

Ian

My thanks to everybody for the information and advice, it is greatly appreciated. Has anybody used the JLC razor saw? Would this be a good choice?
I like the idea that it has a facility to arrange a number of blades side by side to cut strips but does it work well?

What sort of lifespan do razor saws have?

Martyn I have a JLC saw but not the extra bit for side by side mounting, this saw is very good but be warned the blades are paper thin so any amount of sideways pressure or tension and they can snap however I've been using one with the end snapped off for some time without issue. I do have a spare blade which I'd advice you buy at the same time just in case you snap the blade on the first cut.

As to life span the blade is most likely going to snap before it goes blunt if all your cutting is plastic and resin.

Thanks for the information Luciano.

Would you recommend having a more heavy duty saw for larger work as well?

Martyn, they do say you can never have to many tools, who ever they are?

As to whether you need a heavy duty razor saw depends on what your going to be cutting, it doesn't hurt to have one in your tool box I do but very rarely use it but if you don't have one you'll know you will need it! As your just returning to the hobby you'll find there are a lot of new tools and ideas that were not around or in use several years ago.

Mind you I have nearly two of everything as I also have a travel tool kit I take to shows so I can sit behind our club display and build more kits!

The main reason I was asking about having another type of saw was that I saw a comment in a review about the depth of cut the JLC saw is capable of though, to be honest, the spare cashflow is very poor just now meaning that I am pushing it even to be able to splash out on the JLC saw (too much family and not enough smackeroonies especially with Christmas coming).

Check the depth of cut required on the resin in the kits on the bench or in you build next pile and get what is required now, then when money allows buy the other or ask someone to get you one for Christmas it may work

The depth of cut is not great but you can in most cases turn the resin round and cut from the other side as well or even from four sides then trim the last bit with a knife. Depending on the size of the part you don't even need to cut right through you can carefully snap the part off the casting block once you have cut most of the way through. It all depends on the size of the part and how thick/strong it is. It's a case of trial and error.