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Modern aircraft of the United States.
MARINES AV8B II progress
bf443
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Idaho, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 - 10:40 AM UTC
MARINES AV8B Harrier

Hi everyone,

I still chugging away as time and other commitments permit. Its going to be close but I'm sure it will be completed Friday. Sorry for so many pictures but I have fallen behind reporting the progress.



Next two are of the "Office" no aftermarket only what came in the kit.

[
IMG]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e263/bfcf623/P6280010.jpg[/IMG]


Model prior to starting the wash.


Wash in place and drying.


Next three taken during and after cleaning up the wash.




I would like to thank Joe S. (Mother) for giving me advise on weathering. Hope you like it, I really have enjoyed this kit so far.

Sincerely,
Brian
warlock0322
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North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 - 06:11 PM UTC
Brian:

She looks great..

I noticed the problem you mentioned with the gear.. I too had the same problem with the same gear assembly and solved it the same way you did..

I guess it runs in the Harrier family tree of kits..

Two questions though which decals are you going to dress this Pretty Lady up in?

Will she be loaded to the teeth or stay the fine slim lady you have there already?

Paul
Merlin
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AEROSCALE
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Posted: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 - 06:23 PM UTC
Hi Brian

I must plead guilty and admit I've not been following this build. My loss - it shows I should look at more jet threads!

She does indeed look great! One point particularly caught my eye... the refuelling nozzle in photo #3. How did you paint that? The metal bands are really effective.

All the best

Rowan
bf443
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Idaho, United States
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Posted: Friday, June 30, 2006 - 11:29 AM UTC
Paul and Merlin,

Hi guys sorry for not getting back to you sooner. Paul, I plan to hang two TER racks each with three L.G. 500 pounders. But I am having fit problems with the Harrier pylons and the rack from the weapons set.

Merlin, about the refueling probe. I started by painting the entire recepticle MM Steel. I then painted the tip MM Flat Black, for the compression rings I used a bottle of Testors Gold that I have had forever.

Here is some new pictures after placing the decals. It was far more involved than thought it would be. The good thing is I'm closer to getting it done








Sincerely,
Brian
WingTzun
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Illinois, United States
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Posted: Saturday, July 01, 2006 - 07:05 AM UTC
It keeps gettting better & better.....
VonCuda
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North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Saturday, July 01, 2006 - 07:10 AM UTC
Brian,
great job so far! You wouldn't want to share a bit of that shading info would you? That seems to be one of my biggest challenges right now. I can never seem to get the wash to turn out right. Yours looks awsome and has done a lot to bring out the details.
newtothegame
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Washington, United States
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Posted: Saturday, July 01, 2006 - 07:16 AM UTC
Looks great Brian! I really like the wash and weathering. What was the advice Mother gave?
Leon
bf443
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Posted: Saturday, July 01, 2006 - 01:22 PM UTC
David, Herman and Leon,

Thank you for the compliments. I was really nervous about this kit at first. I have never built any Hasegawa product before. The directions are in my opinion a nightmare. One massive exploded view with way to much stuff to clutter the eye. Are all their kits instructions like that?

The Hasegawa Weapon Set D T.E.R. have been giving me fits, so I am going to put two GBU-16 Paveway II under the wings instead. But I will still have to do some extra work to the ordinance. Nothing seems to fit the Harriers hardpoints exactly .

A couple other first's. This is the first time I used "Future" as a gloss coat and the first time I have used artist oils for weathering. Both came out very acceptable to me.

On to the weathing process that was shared. Get your base colors on, then spray straight Future (Floor Acrylic) as a gloss coat. When dry I used an artist oil color "Paynes Grey" (any dark color will do) and thinned it down with odorless Turpentine.

I think I had a ratio of 10/2 (best guess). It seems artist oils go along way with very little. I waited six hours (It was very hot and dry in the room I was working in that day, almost to long) then I used a clean Q-Tip and lightly wiped the wash in the direction of airflow. Then another coat of Future and when dry the decals were applied.

Thats all to it. Not near as ominous as I frst though it would be. I plan to use the same procedure on my F-14A that will be "Dueling " with "Savages" SU-22 Fitter.

Thanks for taking an intrest in my model. Hope to have more progress to post soon. Take care.....

Sincerely,
Brian


Holdfast
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Posted: Saturday, July 01, 2006 - 07:14 PM UTC
Brian, this is looking superb, especially with all the firsts

Something you might want to think about, but it isn't a must and you may think it a little scary, at first, and that is to apply the decals before doing your wash. This is so that the decals are weatherd as well. If you apply the decals after the first coat of Future, then apply another coat over the decals they will be protected from the oil wash. The benefit of doing this is that the markings will look more like part of the airframe and when you spray your finishing clear coat they will look painted on

Mal
bf443
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Posted: Sunday, July 02, 2006 - 07:22 AM UTC
Hi Mal,

That is good advice. I will do that on the next kit I build In the meantime I will try to fill in those places where lines cross and make it really easy to spot. I think I will try my wifes mechanical pencil OOps another first

I just completed one step with the ordinance. Textured the bomb casing for the GBU-16's using MM Red Putty. We'll see how it turns out !

Hope to post some more soon.

Brian
bf443
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Idaho, United States
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Posted: Monday, July 03, 2006 - 11:34 AM UTC
Hi everyone,

I painted and applied some decals to the GBU-16 and the AIM 9L missiles. I also painted the AANQ-28 Pod and the 300 gallon drop tanks. The bombs and pylons did not match up so I used a pencil compass to measure the distance between the two pegs on the pylon and then transfered the same to the bombs and made the needed increase between the mounting holes using a small hand drill. I will post some pictures of the ordinance after I get off work Wednesday.

I would like to ask for help from anyone who can share. I wanted to put a pilot in the plane since the canopy cannot be displayed fully open due to some features of the Harrier kit. I have the hasegawa USN Pilot/Deck Crew set "A" (is there a set B?) The seated figures are way to big to fit in the cockpit. I tried trimming and even using heat to reposition the extremities. It just will not work, is the cockpit underscale or the pilot overscale?

Does anyone know of a pilot figure that can fit in the Hasegawa Harrier or will I have to close the canopy up without one? I would appreciate any suggestion or thought.

Sincerely,
Brian
droseman
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England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, July 03, 2006 - 01:04 PM UTC
Hi Brian,

Joined this thread a little late, but excellent build - well done. How did you paint the cockpit instruments, is that a freehand job or decals?

Dave
warlock0322
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North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 - 01:21 AM UTC
Brian:

If you cannot find a pilot to fit the cockpit. ( sorry can't help you there). You can if you wish make some "Remove Before Flight Flags: ( link below).

http://www.swannysmodels.com/images/Assorted/remove%20before%20flight%20tags.jpg

Hang them from the racks of the planes and get a Standing/Walking Pilot doing his preflight check before getting into the Bird.

This way you can either close the cockpit up or leave it open if you wish. If you leave it open you could also grind out pilots helmet and perch it on the edge of the cockpit..

Just a couple thoughts I threw out there for ya...

Hope it helps ya out..

Paul
bf443
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Posted: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 - 02:11 AM UTC
Dave and Paul,

The cockpit is hand painted. It was not difficult but I painted everything separate then glued them together. The Harrier kit has decals for the cockpit instruments but I thought painting them would be more eye catching.
What a nice idea about the remove before flight tags. The USN pilot set also has one standing figure that could be used for suggesting the pre-check. Thanks for the link and suggestions. Now I need to think Assault Carrier deck section or Runway.
I am at work now when I get off tomorrow I will post pictures of the ordinance. This kit even with some of the short comings has been a joy to build. I can see other Harriers in my future......

Sincerely,
Brian
warlock0322
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Posted: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 - 05:09 PM UTC

Quoted Text


I can see other Harriers in my future......



Brian I am sure the you know that there are 2 other kits out there by the same manufacturer.. The tradional B version and the Night Attack Version.. Be careful though these little aerodynamic wonders can be addicting.. I should know i have all three...

The carrier deck idea sound great... Any ideas on how you going to make the section?
bf443
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Idaho, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 - 06:45 AM UTC
Hi Paul,

Carrier deck..............I know there are some premade things. I guess they are made of cardstock or something of that sort. I will need to investigate further.

Here is the progress on the Harrier ordinance so far. I need to weather and dullcote them.





I still have some seam work to fill in on the extra fuel tanks.

Sincerely,
Brian



mother
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New York, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 - 10:11 AM UTC
Hey Brian,
Sorry about posting so late. Man she came out great! Love the paint, decals and weathering. Real sharp, or as my kids would say…that’s sick! It’s a nice kit, and yes it had some fit problems but what kit doesn’t. I’m thinking about doing a second and really dirtying her up. While I have your attention, what did you use for the rough surface on the GBU’s. Most often I use TenX to soften the plastic, then stipple with a stiff brush.

Here is a link that may strike up your interest in a Carrier deck

Joe
bf443
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Idaho, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 - 11:15 AM UTC
Hi Joe,

Thank you for the compliment and your help!

For the bombs I used "Model Masters Red Putty" and applied it with a brush with the hairs cut down to make them stiff and straight. I think the result is okay. I also used this stuff to help eliminate the seams on the fuel tanks (drying with primer as we speak).

I just thought of something else to ask you. Could you please tell me what did you do to get rid of those pesky mold seams on the canopy? I'm guessing "Future" played some role in it?

Wow its Have a great day Joe I'll talk to you later, thanks again.

Sincerely,
Brian
warlock0322
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Posted: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 - 12:05 PM UTC
Brian:

To get rid of those mold seams in the canopy first thing I did was run a piece of masking tape along each side of the seam line as close as possible.

Then starting with a 400-600grade sanding stick. Carefully sand the seam down. Then graduating up in grades 800-1200. this will polish the canopy up nicely.. When satisfied that the seam is gone.Remove the tape and............

You guessed it.. Dip the whole thing in future and let dry over night. You'll never know the seam line was there...

Just remember this though.. I in the 8 years that I worked with these birds have never sen a crystal clear canopy glass.. All of them have micro scratches in them from the polishes and flying around in the wild blue yonder.. So any little scratches that may occur... Call them " Anatomically Correct"

The ordnance looks great.. Can't wait to see that stuff hanging from the racks...

Paul
bf443
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Posted: Friday, July 07, 2006 - 10:49 AM UTC
Ordinance Hanging!

Hi everyone,

I was able to get the ordinance on tonight. I think all that is left is to dullcote the model then place the canopy and navigation lights on and the Harrier itself will be done








I work tomorrow, Sunday I plan to dull cote it.

Paul, thank you for the step by step for the canopy I will follow your advise.

Sincerely,
Brian
warlock0322
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Posted: Friday, July 07, 2006 - 11:28 AM UTC
Looking great so far Brian.. The ordnance came out beautifully.. Very realistic, especially the slight weathering on it. ( at least it looks like that in the pics).

Good luck with the canopy. Just take your time and polish away. It won't take that long.. The hardest part will be the det cord on the inside of the canopy. That little decal drove me nuts..

Before you know it she will be on your shelf for all to admire.

Paul
bf443
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Posted: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 - 10:24 AM UTC
MARINES AV8B Harrier II completed!

Wow! what a fun build! The canopy was my last step and it gave me some trouble. The parts did not quite match up between the glass and the frame. A little coaxing was in order. Then I found the back of the ejection seat and rear canopy frame touched each other and I could not close the canopy. I trimmed some of the rear canopy frame decking away and it worked fine.

Paul I followed your advise for getting rid of the seam and it worked terrific, Thank you. Also redipped it in future after the det cord decal dried and it helped, but you can still see the carrier film and some minor blemish (maybe glue residue?) if you look close but its no big deal.













Sincerely,
Brian
warlock0322
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Posted: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 - 12:00 PM UTC
Wow Brian she looks great. Glad the canopy didn't give you that much trouble and came out the way you had hoped.

You are right they are fun builds. Hope you get to do another some time soon. If you do there is a PE set for them. It has a det cord on it so the decal problem is not an issue.

Hope to see more of your stuff soon..

Paul
betheyn
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Posted: Thursday, July 13, 2006 - 02:50 AM UTC
Thats a real beut of a Harrier you have there Brian. Now you will have to build a British one .
Andy
mother
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Posted: Thursday, July 13, 2006 - 11:31 AM UTC
Wow Brian...she looks great! This kit was fun to build right . Love the combat ready look, your weathering is sharp. Great Job!

Joe
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