So I've come to an interesting point in my modelling career. Over the years I've used a few different washes, mostly citadel black + water, Tamiya Black + Water, and oils.

Now I used up my last batch of wash and went to make a new one.

No dice. Tide marks galore. I think perhaps I'm using cheap oils and turpenoid instead of good oils and mineral spirit?

I also bought some Vallejo wash (black). That's damn near impossible to use. Thinned with water it leaves tide marks essentially immediately. Thinned with water and dish soap ditto. Thinned with future it's not quite so bad but still more trouble than it's worth. Any thoughts????

Anyway the main thrust of this post is:

What's your dark wash recipe???

Hi Richard!

I know it's unconventional to suggest this to an aircraft modeler but I would suggest you buy AK’s wash for Nato camouflage. It’s black and it is great as it has been developed for washes I use It all the time for washes and it works perfect every time.
http://www.ak-interactive.com/ecomm/?acc=Catalog&sacc=view&IDCat=611&p=1&idp=5835&idc=3

Jakob

A while back, Finescale Modeler ran an article on how to make a sludge wash. Basically you take dark gray acrylic paint thin it with water and mix in dishwash soap. Apply to panel lines, let dry and wipe away with a moistened cotton swab. I tried this on my Airfix Gnat, it worked pretty well.

Stop the presses

I'm going to sound like a fan-boi again, or someone will start assuming I have a vested interest in the company, but for my money you can't beat the Promodeller washes. They're acrylic which I love because I NEVER have to worry about damaging the underlying paint. They're also idiotproof - which is perfect for me.

Check out the youtube video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwHP6Tj13DE

Also - http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/Rev2/1901-2000/rev1972-Promodellers-wash-Wood/00.shtm

I usually go for good quality oils and artists thinners.
Your remark about the Vallejo washes reminded of the problems I had at first with them. I find that adding a drop of matt base to wash and then thinning with water cures the tidemark problem.
Cheers,
Julian

This stuff comes highly recommended,I just ordered some and will give it a shot

http://www.florymodels.co.uk/washes/

I use oils and sansodor to thin them.

Jean-Luc recently recommended I try these new Tamiya washes if I need faster drying:

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87131_133panel_accent/index.htm

Another vote for ProModeller/Flory Models washes. (they're the same thing, the company changed ownership, IIRC)
Great stuff. Pretty much foolproof too, as without the binder component found in acrylic paints, the washes remain completely workable and removable until you seal them with a clear top coat. Naturally, that also means that sealing them is a must.

A DIY alternative to Flory washes is ground pastels applied with a stiff brush or some similar tool, then removing the excess with moistened Q-tips, cloth, or what-have-you. I guess you could also very well make a slugdge wash with finely ground pastels too, no binder to worry about.

I've been finding the chalk pastels with and without water to be very effective. Thanks everyone.

If you aren't already doing it I would recommend you to add just a tiny amount of dishwasher detergent as the wash flows better that way.

Jakob

Richard, I've used washes made from Artist tube oils/mineral spirits, Model Master Enamel paints/mineral spirits, Tamiya Acrylic paints/X20A thinner, and Flory washes. Never had any issues with them. The one constant is that the base paint be completely and properly sealed. I used Future/Pledge or Testors Glosscoat for gloss surfaces. When I need a flat or Matt base I use Dullcoat mixed with Glosscoat.

None of the washes or filters ever has caused tide marks because I can rub to the point of completely removing the wash. They just don't soak into the base. I never, ever apply a wash to raw paint if I'm planning on rubbing it out. There's where you end up with tide marks.

The Flory wash use to be labeled Promodeller. Phil Flory was Promodeller, but was sued by Revell of Germany over the use of it's copyrighted name. So Phil just changed the name of his company. He never sold the product line. The washes are made with dirt that he gets form his backyard, and distilled water. Not sure if he adds anything else to the mix. Works great. Love the stuff.

Joel